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I have a 2004 Ford Excursion, 6.0 PSD. I replaced the positive battery cable 6 months ago. 1 of the clips came loose and the cable started rubbing on the idler pully and now about 3/4 of the cable has been worn through. Instead of replacing the $90 cable has anybody had any luck splicing the cable? I’m thinking about cutting out the bad part, replacing it with the same gauge, using solder inside the crimps to help bond the cables together and reduce resistance, then wrap it all with a couple of layers of heat shrink then wrapping with plastic cable protectors.
There are some good splice kits out there with the sticky-glue-heat shrink. I used one to splice a new 4 gauge B+ cable on my truck. Just like this one:
I finally pulled the positive battery cable from the right side. The cut in the cable is smaller thank I originally thought, very thick insulation. The pulley cut through only about 10-15 strands of the very fine copper wires, less than a 1/8” wear spot. I’m planning to just tape up the spot and cover it with the outter wire cover and tape that too. When I put it back I’ll make sure to secure it with cable ties so it won’t come loose. I’m also going to replace both grounding cables and installing the a new ground wire to tie the two batteries together. I’m hoping this will resolve my problem, the truck would not crank over, a red line it had a dead battery but the batteries showed 12 volts in one and 10 volts in the other. I charged the lower one and it showed 14 volts after about 25 min. However the truck still had the same problem when I tried to start it.
... it had a dead battery but the batteries showed 12 volts in one and 10 volts in the other. I charged the lower one and it showed 14 volts after about 25 min. However the truck still had the same problem when I tried to start it. Thanks, jeff
How many amps? 14 volts even is juuuust starting to approach a full charge (at 77°F), and it can take several hours to reach 100% depending on the size of the charger, and they also "like" to be cooked for an hour or so after that. If it's cold out, it's not even close to a full charge. Best not to let battery get discharged that low, they can be permanently damaged below 11 volts. Charge both batteries up thoroughly so they are on the same sheet of music.
At 10 volts, there is either something wrong with the battery, or it should be replaced out of caution. I say this because the other was at 12 volts at the same moment in time, and they are tied to each other. Been there, done that.
I pulled the ground cable off the right side. It is grounded to the engine and the frame. I’m going to use a different bolt and nut system to secure it as it was not very tight when I put it back on. I tightened it up as much as I dare but it will need a different fix. All connections were cleaned before reinstalling. I’m going to run a different ground wire from the left grounding cable to the engine on the left side to the frame, hopefully this will tie the two batteries together.
I’ll take the batteries back to autozone this afternoon to have them checked. They are about 2 years old so maybe that could also be an issue. I’ll keep y’all posted. If that turns out to be the problem at least I’ll have good ground connections.
Well both new batteries are in, and everything is reconnected. Truck started right up and idles better than it ever has, nice and smooth. Maybe cleaning all the ground connections on the right battery was also an issue. In a few days I’ll remove the left battery, clean the ground connections and run an additional ground cable from the frame ground to the engine block.
Excellent news! Bridging the two negative battery terminals together should increase the operating efficiency even further and eliminate future problems.