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I myself have not done the actual welding but when we was stretching truck frames i had input as to the outcome,but had people hired to burn the rod sorta speak, what are you stretching or fixing?
i heated my truck shops with 150k btu blower heaters,3 per shop, sometimes drivers would give us fuel if a big co truck,they done great,kept a smaller one on our service trucks so when in the field thow hands or air lines.
Since its getting cold what are you guys heating your garages with
Body heat. If you're cold you're not working hard enough. I have a propane fired forced hot air that doesn't vent properly and almost killed me....... twice. So o don't use it.
Pulled a 6.9, trans, and t-case in one shot today. The rest is pretty much junk.
I myself have not done the actual welding but when we was stretching truck frames i had input as to the outcome,but had people hired to burn the rod sorta speak, what are you stretching or fixing?
I am thinking after the frame gets back to being straight I may need
a reinforcement patch behind the radius arm bracket.
For heating I use one of the BIG torpedo heaters. It will run on anything diesel like.
For the most part I just use kero because diesel gives me a headache. and once it warm
I go back to the electric 240V shop heater to hold it.
Prob 1300#s+. That's the only way to get it all out in one piece. The chassis is so rotted I didn't want to waste time under it. It has sway back so bad it was pinching the doors from the bed being into the cab so hard. Yet the passenger door, fender, and bed side is practically rust free. With only 78k miles it's a shame but it lived it's life as a yard plowtruck.
My 20yo welder looks new. No doors on the farm garage so no need for heat. The mass quantity of lights in my garage keeps it warm.
Looks a little tail heavy Pete. Ya need a backhoe.
Jack,this is nothing to do with a 6.0 but maybe you can give some advise,i have a flatbed trailer with a 18k winch up front and i use a block pulley to double that,been useing group 31 screw down batts out of big trucks, a guy in the battery business said he has a 12v railroad loco battery he would sale cheap,do you know anything about these type batts like cca,reserve caps,the truck batts have 900 cca we charge from the truck.
Yeah, there’s a good rust pile under the Pass headlight area.
Mark, I don’t really know anything about them. In researching a different starting cable system for our trucks I recently came up with seriously robust and expensive railroad starter terminals. So I looked around at their batteries, but it seems like there are a lot of different sizes depending on the layout. These the modern big guys.
At the test facility I set up a 12k winch with a block pulley to test class 8 parking ability (FMVSS 121) drawbar test and used a that held up well. You had to do full rotation pulls, 3x, then reverse. I tried double car batts, but they didn’t work that well.
Ill get more info soon as i go look at it,after looking online it seems loco batts are 8 volt and just keep adding together to get what they want,this guy said his is a 12v so im thinking he meant a railroad battery and that could have come from anything to do with rr equip and not a locomotive.
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that held up well. You had to do full rotation pulls, 3x, then reverse. I tried double car batts, but they didn’t work that well.