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$8 on Amazon prime . It's also in a Lisle master kit that local stores might have.
Lisle 39960 Transmission Oil Cooler Line Disconnect
im sure this is correct, I pulled the part number from my Amazon purchase history and used it on my truck.
It could be the radiator said I've had enough pressure and not going to take it anymore, now that the cap is higher. The old cap may have been weaker then the radiator....... new cap stronger then the radiator.
It could be the radiator said I've had enough pressure and not going to take it anymore, now that the cap is higher. The old cap may have been weaker then the radiator....... new cap stronger then the radiator.
The radiator is only 3 months old, the one I replaced had seam issues on the top, this one has the same problem except on the bottom. I really need to set-up the coolant pressure gauge.
Update: with some self control, I have been able to keep the truck from puking.
It seems to start puking some where around 28 psi on the turbo (hard acceleration) at WOT the turbo will peak at 35 psi. Any one have any ideas here? I want to keep the performance and stop the coolant puking/venting. All tests confirm I am not having headgasket failure.
The radiator is only 3 months old, the one I replaced had seam issues on the top, this one has the same problem except on the bottom. I really need to set-up the coolant pressure gauge.
this ^
Also make sure your coolant is 50-60% glycol concentration.
Also make sure your coolant is 50-60% glycol concentration.
I am 60 % sure that the mix is off. I understand that I need to install the coolant pressure gauge. Waiting on it is not my idea. ‘Happy wife, happy life”.
I ordered the pressure gauge, I will install as soon as I get it.
The results will be interesting, for sure.
The highest I have seen mine after some close to WOT and hard running (but no towing) is 12psi. Mine has a new degas bottle and Y pipe and the cap is a year old. I may replace the cap just as insurance.
I did notice that you run your antifreeze level a lot higher than I do. I run it a bit below the revised low setting on the degas bottle. Mine just covers the bottom of the degas bottle. I haven't notices any errant temps running like this.
The highest I have seen mine after some close to WOT and hard running (but no towing) is 12psi. Mine has a new degas bottle and Y pipe and the cap is a year old. I may replace the cap just as insurance.
I did notice that you run your antifreeze level a lot higher than I do. I run it a bit below the revised low setting on the degas bottle. Mine just covers the bottom of the degas bottle. I haven't notices any errant temps running like this.
I have removed some coolant from the system, and notice that the puking has slowed, I can push it up to about 33 psi (unsustained) with out puking. But I will also say that it does have me worried that I don’t have enough coolant. I have it to a similar level, just covering the bottom of the degas tank.
I am very interested to see the pressures inside the coolant system aswell.
Update: I installed the coolant pressure gauge today, at idle 4-6 psi, normal acceleration the coolant pressure is 10-12 psi, and at W.O.T. Coolant spikes at 17psi for less than a second, then settles in at 13-15.
Only time the truck is puking is under W.O.T. Acceleration. If I don’t boost over 28-30 psi on the turbo, (3/4 throttle) it don’t puke.
Ok guys, I am still at a lose here, anyone have any suggestions?
I am leaning towards this being a tuning issue.
Just another thought, but would changing my radiator, intercooler, and degas bottle for completely welded ones be the way to go other than retuning? I understand most everyone is going to say “retune”...this is already being done. I am asking what if I was not wanting/unwilling to retune due to “special” use, would the stated above be the proper fix? would adding a water meth injection kit help or hurt or do nothing for this problem? Again just to be clear, I am returning this truck for a more mild tune. I am simply asking out of curiosity.
Ok guys, I am still at a lose here, anyone have any suggestions?
I am leaning towards this being a tuning issue.
Just another thought, but would changing my radiator, intercooler, and degas bottle for completely welded ones be the way to go other than retuning? I understand most everyone is going to say “retune”...this is already being done. I am asking what if I was not wanting/unwilling to retune due to “special” use, would the stated above be the proper fix? would adding a water meth injection kit help or hurt or do nothing for this problem? Again just to be clear, I am returning this truck for a more mild tune. I am simply asking out of curiosity.
I'm going to go out on a limb here, have you verified what the antifreeze to water is? Have you performed another test of the coolant for products of combustion? If those check out the only other possible cause i can think of would be the water pump not circulating the water as it should. You may want to pull the water pump and have a look at the pump itself and check inside the front cover for cavitation damage.
Akblackfoot had an issue similar to what you are experiencing maybe search for a thread from him. In the end I believe he ran a coolant line between the heads in the rear to equalize the flow. If I wasn't on my phone I would try to find it. Could even PM him
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