IDI PUMP TIMING questions
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 338
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From: prineville
IDI PUMP TIMING questions
k
got an 85 . just put a servicable used pump on, everything works jes fine.
6.9 n/a no mods, but for soup bowl removal.
did i read somewhere that audible detonation under steady state cruise is normal ? or it indicates too advanced pump time?
smoke:
im confusing myself with visible haze on accel but none at cruise, and other signs my pump may need a degree or two of tuning
starts real well has fabulous power, and dont smoke.
comments pls?
detonation seems to be even on all 8 cylinders
thx all
got an 85 . just put a servicable used pump on, everything works jes fine.
6.9 n/a no mods, but for soup bowl removal.
did i read somewhere that audible detonation under steady state cruise is normal ? or it indicates too advanced pump time?
smoke:
im confusing myself with visible haze on accel but none at cruise, and other signs my pump may need a degree or two of tuning
starts real well has fabulous power, and dont smoke.
comments pls?
detonation seems to be even on all 8 cylinders
thx all
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 26
From: NJ
Set it to 9* at 2000 RPM using the pulse method. 8.5*-9.5* is in the ballpark for best performance and economy while staying safe. Much less than that and you're sacrificing low end torque and it'll likely get smokey (gray/white), but may spool faster or build more boost (not applicable to you). You can go as high as 10* before you start damaging glow plugs. A few degrees more and you're getting hard on rod bearings and creating a lot more pressure in the cylinders (head gaskets).
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 338
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From: prineville
k thx.
i have none of the tools necessary for this.
Ross diesel does, but is very booked right now,
and im not finished with mods b4 going in there.
sooo, is there telltale signs that im in the ballpark or our of the park altogether?
i have none of the tools necessary for this.
Ross diesel does, but is very booked right now,
and im not finished with mods b4 going in there.
sooo, is there telltale signs that im in the ballpark or our of the park altogether?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
If you want it ballpark, find the cold advance wire that goes to the pump. You should have two wires to the pump, one is the fuel solenoid to make it run, and the other is the cold start advance wire. There is a sensor in behind the alternator that activates this wire till the engine warms up, and it also activates a solenoid on the throttle to make it fast idle till it warms up.
Get the engine totally warmed up, you know these engines never warm up just sitting in the driveway, so take it out and run it.
Come back and with it idling, jump power to the advance wire. You should hear what they call the "powerstroke rattle" when the advance wire is powered. Take power off and it should go away.
If you hear the powerstroke rattle all the time, you are too advanced. If you never hear the powerstroke rattle when the wire is powered, you are too retarded. When you can turn the powerstroke rattle on and off at will with the wire, you are about right.
Get the engine totally warmed up, you know these engines never warm up just sitting in the driveway, so take it out and run it.
Come back and with it idling, jump power to the advance wire. You should hear what they call the "powerstroke rattle" when the advance wire is powered. Take power off and it should go away.
If you hear the powerstroke rattle all the time, you are too advanced. If you never hear the powerstroke rattle when the wire is powered, you are too retarded. When you can turn the powerstroke rattle on and off at will with the wire, you are about right.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 26
From: NJ
Get the pulse timing adapter, they're not terribly expensive. Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools
You cannot set timing without either this adapter and a dial back timing light (Actron CP7529 Timing Light - Electronic Testing) or a luminosity type timing tool. These are required tools if you own one of these trucks. For what you pay someone else to do the job once you can probably buy the tools and be set for life. I check/set timing annually, realistically you should probably do this at least every 30k miles or so.
You cannot set timing without either this adapter and a dial back timing light (Actron CP7529 Timing Light - Electronic Testing) or a luminosity type timing tool. These are required tools if you own one of these trucks. For what you pay someone else to do the job once you can probably buy the tools and be set for life. I check/set timing annually, realistically you should probably do this at least every 30k miles or so.
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: prineville
i did NOT know that.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 338
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From: prineville
Get the pulse timing adapter, they're not terribly expensive. Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools
You cannot set timing without either this adapter and a dial back timing light (Actron CP7529 Timing Light - Electronic Testing) or a luminosity type timing tool. These are required tools if you own one of these trucks. For what you pay someone else to do the job once you can probably buy the tools and be set for life. I check/set timing annually, realistically you should probably do this at least every 30k miles or so.
You cannot set timing without either this adapter and a dial back timing light (Actron CP7529 Timing Light - Electronic Testing) or a luminosity type timing tool. These are required tools if you own one of these trucks. For what you pay someone else to do the job once you can probably buy the tools and be set for life. I check/set timing annually, realistically you should probably do this at least every 30k miles or so.
i guess at this point i can check my FSM for details.
but thx fer the illumination. not punning.
and if my harmonic balancer has slipped..... which i hear is common on these engines due to vibration, leads me back to seat of britches guessing. or a new harmonic banancer.
which leads to another question
is the balancer set straight up or clocked for emissions somehow. maybe that is nonsensical but thought i would ask.
i noticed tonite in the headlights of the car behind me that hard accelerations produces some visible exhaust emission but its not visible from the cab or mirrors, so im hoping im within acceptable norms there.
gents your helping here don't give up ill get it quick enough. my thing has been the 6bt.
thx
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Oregon
I had an 88 with the 7.3, I did like sdiesel and replaced it. Then took it to a mechanic that could time it. I asked if it was close and he said not really.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
The injectors are calibrated to spray (pop) at a certain PSI this is controlled by spring pressure in the injector. As injectors age the springs settle and the pop pressure changes ( gets lower) and the timing advances. You need to take this in to account and it is actaully a good idea to retard the timing a bit on brand new injectors cause as they settle in timing will advance. So this is why timing calibration needs to be done/checked every X number of miles/hours on mechanically injected diesels or if the injectors are swapped out. I'm fortunate and have the Ford/Rotunda Timing tools for the 6.9 and 7.3L so setting the timing on these engines is a 20 min job for myself.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,298
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From: NJ
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
The injectors are calibrated to spray (pop) at a certain PSI this is controlled by spring pressure in the injector. As injectors age the springs settle and the pop pressure changes ( gets lower) and the timing advances. You need to take this in to account and it is actaully a good idea to retard the timing a bit on brand new injectors cause as they settle in timing will advance. So this is why timing calibration needs to be done/checked every X number of miles/hours on mechanically injected diesels or if the injectors are swapped out. I'm fortunate and have the Ford/Rotunda Timing tools for the 6.9 and 7.3L so setting the timing on these engines is a 20 min job for myself.
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