Kitty cat??? OH, the cat converter is long gone. Lola turns 2000 rpm at 70 MPH. Was told 3.73 ratio. A Banks chip (small,nothing fancy) was installed long time ago with a new down pipe that replaced the cobra head OEM. Very rarely do I have to drain out water from fuel bowl. 2 stroke Oil? I have heard of that but not sure of dose or quality. Here costs go from $4.00 to $12+ per quart depending on use (ultra lights, to chain saws) . Lunas here is $ 12+ a quart and even overdoseing didn't see any difference. I drive like I have a raw egg under the peddle. Still wondering about those screens, EBPV delete, EBPV delete, fuel heater delete, fuel bowl plunger delete, or anything else one might delete to get some more better results. I'm still hoping, praying but crying less with mi problemo . All input is much appreciated and welcomed. Thanks to all.

 

So you are in Cuernavaca, how did you survive to the recent eartquake there? I read a lot of bad things there and in Jojutla, worst, like in Mexico City.

Well Adam covers a lot of things to do about MPG. My truck is 3:55 too. I have used 2 stroke oil too with no results, only a little less engine noise. Maybe you are loosing fuel through fuel pump or the fuel bowl (with corrosion in the bottom, forms pinholes and loose fuel) and you dont notice that. About the screen in the FPR read this:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...regulator.html

And for the showerhead in the tank read here (but that doesnt causes less MPG, just no fuel in the bowl like out of fuel):
https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-271...up-screen.aspx

 

EBPV delete, before you do that wire it open with a coat hanger

 

Couple of questions that might help narrow it down a bit.

1. Do you have a boost gauge, low boost will cause low MPG? Without a boost gauge it's a guessing game.

2. There is a small rubber hose that goes from the MAP sensor down to the passenger side air intake plenum. Make sure that hose is connected and is good condition. Also remove it and make sure there are no clogged ends, usually at the plenum end, just blow through it.

3. As a troubleshooting tool you can unplug the MAP sensor and take the truck for a spin. The dash will show a CEL but won't hurt anything. If the truck seems to run much better then either the MAP is bad, rarely it is, or you are loosing boost somewhere.

4. Have you removed the air intake and inspected the turbo wheel yet? If the ends of the blade are all bent and chewed up you will never get good boost. when you get on the peddle can you hear the turbo spool up a bit?

These things are mostly just labor and cost nothing but your time.

On my 97 with auto transmission and at 55 MPH I turn ~ 1450 RPM's with 3.55's. On my 99 with auto transmission and at 55 MPH I turn ~ 1550 RPM's with 3.73's

 

in order. yes, i live in cuernavaca the city of etenal springtime. been thru many quakes but NEVER on top of the epicenter!!!! AMAZING right up there with mega total solar eclipse early 90-s. If I wire open the EBPV what happens, is there any risk, what should i look for or feel? No boost gauge, not sure where the MAP is but ill find it, what would cause turbo blade damage? I got truck 10 years ago at 10 years old with 215k miles well maintained and not riddin hard. I did the math with your numbers and my rear axle is 3.78.

 

I just got home from a trip to Tucson.
450 miles 29.9 gallons 15.05 mpg.
75 to 78 mph down 75 to 83 mph back, truck was at 2700 to 2900 rpm most of the time.
If I stay at 72 mph, 2495 rpm I get 18.6 mpg (hand calculated over 10 year)
'97 4X4 zf5 285/75r16E tires at 38psi front 30 psi rear.
I have 4.10 gears, 6637 intake 4 inch straight exhaust no muffler, stage 1 injectors, CAC, no tuning.

 

what happens if i wire up the EBPV ? any risk? what should i expect to hear or feel? if this can be eliminated why was it put ther in the first place?

 

My MPG is BAD, REALLY BAD !!! So far nothing seems to help. Is it complicated, expensive, or bad for my truck to mix fry oil with diesel??? NEVER COLD HERE. Im sure SOMEONE has the solution.

 

It was put there for really cold climates to help heat the engine up a bit. Others, including me from Oregon have just deleted it. Sometimes it just fails and wants to stay closed, or partially closed. On a cold start you can go and watch the mechanism close and open on initial power up. Gotta be fast as this occurs within about 3-5 seconds after start up.

There is a plug which controls the valve, located just in front and below the turbo, two prong. Unplug that and the computer will ignore the operation and it should remain open all the time. Don't worry, it won't hurt anything and most of on hear have it unplugged.

 

Do your eyes water when your near the exhaust? If so it might be time for some new injectors, bad injectors can cause excessive fuel consumption as well. Also have you seen if your 4x4 hubs are not engaged? Does the truck get up to temperature or do you do short commutes? Theres alot of stuff that can cause bad mpg. Brake caliper not stuck? Drum? Check everything.

 

OK. now i know no EBPV needed in the land of eternal springtime. YEA !!!! Adam, it smells RICH like its not combusting well. new injectors cost a FORTUNE, best quotes around here go from $75 to $200 USD per injector. How can u know if they are bad or need a "tuning"?

 

Ive heard that removal of these injectors is not that simple? That they are sort of in a class of there own, not every diesel lab has experience with them and WATCH OUT with the newbi experimenters. Am I being paranoid ?

 

$75-$200 is not that bad compared to us in the USA. One way is thru a code reader which you say its nearly impossible to find, the other is unplugging one injector at a time and see if the smell is not as strong. The other is to visually check each injector oil spout on a cold engine and see if they are spewing the same amount of oil out of them.

 

Oh one other thing thats often overlooked is a compression test.

 

Scanning the truck shouldn't be such an ordeal, even down there. You can get your hands on a cheap old Windows laptop, right? And Amazon ships to MX? If so, get said cheap laptop, and a USB OBDII/ELM327 device, and download the free Forscan program, and you should be able to obtain codes, perform tests, read live data, etc. in no time.

There was never any ratio like 3.78 available. The only stock ratios are 3.55 and 4.10. What is the AXLE code on the door jamb sticker? Also, is there a tag on any of the diff cover bolts? 2000 RPM at 70 MPH, with stock tires, suggests you have 3.55s.