Transmission Position Sensor
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 354
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Ok we are looking for white with pink and dark brown with orange for the two that should be jumped together.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I checked it with a volt meter and that pink/blue wire does not go through that junction box. The yellow wire that brings the power into the ignition switch goes through there. I pulled the junction apart and checked it. I don't understand why that schematic shows the wire running from the switch to that #20 fuse, it is not how it goes.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,731
Likes: 2,658
From: SE Florida
I just fixed an E-Series that had 0 volts at the starter in crank. The TRS on the side of the trans was making the circuit in park and neutral. I ran a new wire from the TRS to the starter. I was much more interested in getting it working than I was in finding where the wire broke.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I just fixed an E-Series that had 0 volts at the starter in crank. The TRS on the side of the trans was making the circuit in park and neutral. I ran a new wire from the TRS to the starter. I was much more interested in getting it working than I was in finding where the wire broke.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
Right now I can see it go down through a plastic channel at the driver's left foot, the channel has a hole in is so I can see it. On the firewall on the other side of that channel are three wire cluster blocks mounted to the firewall. It must go through there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Keep an eye out for fusible links, especially in the heavier gauge wires.
I fried one when working on a different vehicle once. Couldn't tell from the outside it was bad, but I saw it spark and smoke, then tested it. If it had failed when I wasn't watching, it could have been hard to find.
I fried one when working on a different vehicle once. Couldn't tell from the outside it was bad, but I saw it spark and smoke, then tested it. If it had failed when I wasn't watching, it could have been hard to find.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I probably should have kept it all under one thread. If Stewart could merge them it might be easier for someone in the future who is chasing wire. Thanks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...need-help.html
I'm starting to lean towards installing a new wire, just need to figure out if I go from switch to relay or just do one leg of the run.
Why do I have low amperage coming through on 4 wires to the transmission with KO? Would those be for sensors inside the trans? Should one of those wires (I'll figure out what color here today) be hot all the time?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...need-help.html
I'm starting to lean towards installing a new wire, just need to figure out if I go from switch to relay or just do one leg of the run.
Why do I have low amperage coming through on 4 wires to the transmission with KO? Would those be for sensors inside the trans? Should one of those wires (I'll figure out what color here today) be hot all the time?
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Douglassville, PA
I am happy to report that it looks as though I have found my problem. Determined to find where that RD/BL wire went I got in under the dash with a flashlight and found that it goes onto the GEM/fuesbox. I removed the associated wire block and tested for continuity to switch, leg cleared. I inspected the connections inside the block and the GEM and found that the spade for the starter wire inside the box got bent over when I had that problem reassembling the unit. Had to remove the GEM again and straightened out that spade. Reassembled and all seems to be good. Now I need to see if I got the parasitic drain under control.
Thanks to all for the help and input.
Thanks to all for the help and input.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 354
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That's where I was thinking your issue was going to be but you were positive that red/blue wire didn't go there. I bet if you check fuse 20 with a meter it will only have power when trying to crank now as well as that is how the schematic shows the circuit working. Glad you are making progress.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
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Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
That's where I was thinking your issue was going to be but you were positive that red/blue wire didn't go there. I bet if you check fuse 20 with a meter it will only have power when trying to crank now as well as that is how the schematic shows the circuit working. Glad you are making progress.
Edit: PS, much thanks for the help.
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