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I am having problems with my starter lead from the ignition to the fender relay. It is letting some electricity through when it shouldn't and is not passing electricity through when it should. When the key is set to start the power leak does not change. It tests to be 12V but it barely lights my test light. I am unable to test mA at this time. My next move is to check the position sensor on the side of the transmission. Any guidance on how and what to look for would be appreciated. If the sensor is bad how hard is it to change? I can't figure where that power might be leaking in from.
@Mark Kovalsky I need some help chasing this one down. I have checked the plug to the shift position detector on the side of the transmission and have power at one pin, it looks like a red wire. I have slight power bleeding over to my starter COM wire but that goes away when the selector is unplugged. What to check next at this point?
My first thought is, have you checked the ignition switch? Someone put a diagram up here this week which show the wiring. I list a fuse inside J-box relay panel (15 amps) find it check it verify that the leads are clean. It looks like it should supply full power in the start position. It supplies power to the transmission switch. It would be the place to start your hunt.
Yep, been through that, it checked out all clear and I have checked the wire below the switch, I have power there. I have help coming to play with the shifter while I go through the plug on the transmission end. The wire coming out of the ignition switch is pretty big, like a 10 ga or so but out the other end it's more like a 12, there must be a junction somewhere in the middle that I'm not finding.
Also the transmission position sensor you are looking for is located on the left side of the transmission and you should be checking for power on a dark brown with orange wire there but please start at the key with the white and pink wire for now and let me know your results.
The wire I have out of the ignition switch is blue/rd and it gets power when the key is moved to the start position. There is a security device added and it was my prime suspect but I believe that I have ruled it out. Downstream from the security device is a connection and I get power there when the key is turned to start.
When checking the connector at the tranny I get odd results (odd to me anyway). With the key off I get one (I think it's read) with full power and one with weak power. I get four pins with weak power and one with strong power when the key is in 'on' position. I did not have pen and paper with me when I did this so I can't map them right now. When turned to start one of those goes dark and the others remain lit, nothing new gets power.
We found three junction boxes on the firewall where the wires, no doubt, get connected. I'll have to yank the fender liner to get to them, wish it would cool down a little. I knew there had to be a connection of some sort since the wire dropped from like 10 ga to about 14 ga.
Here's the wire that's hot when the key is turned to start. This is the downstream end of the security relay that will prevent a start, it has power at this point. I guess it is more like pink/bl
Then I found this little contraption. The diagrams all show the clutch sensor and depict a jumper for it on the AT models. I don't know if this is it or not but it mounts under the dash near the brake pedal. All it does is jump those wires.
Also what are you checking this with? Actual voltages would really help in troubleshooting this issue. You
can pick up a DVOM fairly cheap.
I have a digital meter that I usually use but I've just been using my light because it's easier. It doesn't show voltage, amps or mA but it varies in brightness. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get enough dirt off of the wires and get a color of what's lighting up and I'll check voltage.
I can't see what wire colors are in that plug but I don't see a jumper plugged into it.
Bad job on wire color, that is two pieces there, you can see the rib on the inner piece that insures proper installation. And the clips on the sides to hold 'er together.
If I remember correct in your other thread you said you had power at fuse 20 all the time? What were you checking this with? You shouldn't have power there except when trying to crank. I would double check for power on both sides of 20 and should only be hot during crank.
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