Drivers side clunking noise
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Drivers side clunking noise
Hi there everyone, hopefully I am doing this right but first off i have 97 explorer xlt and let me tell you these are wonderful trucks when maintained well. I had ran into an issue one day where I was reversing out of the parking lot cranking the wheel right and that's when I herd the clunking noise. Didn't think to much of it till I drove up my driveway, turning the wheel right again, it clunks again. So I stopped where I was at, got out of the car to analyze the problem and first thing I noticed was the front passenger wheel was turned way more than the driver side. I pulled it into the garage so I could look underneath after it being jacked and first thing I notice on the inner driverside wheel was a nice clean strip of metal carved around the lug holes. Then I looked at the brake calipers and found that the calipers would be scraping against the inner wheel. Well I checked all the bolts and tightened everything that needed to be tightened and still have the clunking noise. I checked all the tie rods, control arms, and so on. I have read on a few forums that it could be a bad tie rod? If so I would like your guys input on the situation and what might be the issue here. Thanks for the help and hope to hear back from all.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
I notice on the inner driverside wheel was a nice clean strip of metal carved around the lug holes. Then I looked at the brake calipers and found that the calipers would be scraping against the inner wheel. ---
worn tie rods or ball joints cant do that. If the caliper is hitting the rim or scraping the control arm, then the wheel bearing is worn out, or the lug nuts are way loose... All these parts move TOGETHER when the lug bolts are tight... they cant hit each other unless the bearing is shot.
worn tie rods or ball joints cant do that. If the caliper is hitting the rim or scraping the control arm, then the wheel bearing is worn out, or the lug nuts are way loose... All these parts move TOGETHER when the lug bolts are tight... they cant hit each other unless the bearing is shot.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
put a floor jack under the center of the A frame ( under the shock) and jack the tire up 2 inches off the ground..... grab the tire top and bottom with your hands and rock it in and out.... any free movement is not right.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,746
Likes: 4
From: PNW
From my limited experience with one Explorer and one Mountaineer, the wheel bearings fail around 150K to 180k miles. The one that failed at 150k didn't make any noise but had enough slop to wipe out the ABS wheel speed sensor. The other made a terrible noise but didn't have enough slop to wipe out the ABS sensor.
While you're looking for movement, check those lower ball joints. You just have to look where the motion is occurring when you do the wiggle test mentioned above. I had to do both sides on my V6 Explorer at 157k miles, but the V8 Mountaineer is doing fine with 192k miles. You'd think that the heavier engine would have worn that stuff out sooner.
While you're looking for movement, check those lower ball joints. You just have to look where the motion is occurring when you do the wiggle test mentioned above. I had to do both sides on my V6 Explorer at 157k miles, but the V8 Mountaineer is doing fine with 192k miles. You'd think that the heavier engine would have worn that stuff out sooner.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Input on good or bad idea.
Thanks for the input. Ill go and check it out and see what happens. My Explorer has 260000 plus miles on it and is running pretty strong still. I know I'm bound to run into some problems with that many miles on it, so I bought a parts car which is a 1999 explorer with 160000 miles on it. On my 97 I replaced/cleaned the whole top half of the engine starting from the fuel rail to the ICIV. All new plugs and wires, got new sensors, thermostat housing, replaced all hoses, and topped it off with an engine flush. As far as suspension, new shocks, rotors, sway bar bushing and sway bar links for the front. The rear is just new shocks, rotors, and pads. My over plan is to swap out engines once the 97 goes out. I would like some input on that cause I don't plan on getting rid of the truck but later down the road I would like to put a 5.0 in there. Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
txcntryboi23
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
17
Jan 5, 2010 05:40 PM
