Wish me luck!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
I would guess all that carbon build-up was a result of a bad copper crush washer, and that might've been caused by loose hold-down bolts.
Probably too late for most of your new cups now, but before putting them in check the top edge of the cups. Make sure that edge is SMOOTH. When I was installing mine I noticed one - near the end - that caught my finger when I was handling it. A sharp edge there could damage a new injector o-ring when you install it.
Probably too late for most of your new cups now, but before putting them in check the top edge of the cups. Make sure that edge is SMOOTH. When I was installing mine I noticed one - near the end - that caught my finger when I was handling it. A sharp edge there could damage a new injector o-ring when you install it.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2015
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Will it hurt anything to crank the motor with injectors and glow plugs removed? One of the sites that sells injectors said that could damage the motor. Should I put injectors in and leave glow plugs out? They also said to pull the plug for the oil galley on top of each head and fill with oil, since it was drained to pull the injectors. Good practice or waste of time?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
Cranking the engine (by the starter) with the injectors out will allow the HPOP and the fuel pump to fill the cylinders with oil and fuel. Handcranking leaves the fuel pump off and too slow for the HPOP to do anything.
Most folks don't, at least I didn't, drain the HPO gallery in the heads and don't prime it either. They might "prime" it by cranking the engine with the 42 pin disconnected, so the injectors don't fire.
Most folks don't, at least I didn't, drain the HPO gallery in the heads and don't prime it either. They might "prime" it by cranking the engine with the 42 pin disconnected, so the injectors don't fire.
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Posting Guru
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So should I install the injectors and leave the glow plugs out and crank with the 42 pin disconnected to make sure there is nothing in the cylinders, or is cranking by hand good enough? I REALLY don't need a hydrolock!
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,350
Likes: 5,945
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
It is a good idea to evacuate the cylinder if you can with something like a mighty-vac hand pump. Once that is done, install the injectors, but leave the glow plugs out. Put the valve covers back on the truck, but only hand tighten a couple of the bolts, just to keep fluid spray down.
Now, there are several ways to crank the engine, without actually starting the truck.
1. You can disconnect the CPS, and crank the truck.
2. You can remove the IDM relay, and crank the truck.
3. You can disconnect the 42 pin connector, and crank the truck.
4. If you have a 2000, you can use a screwdriver on the passenger side wheel well at the start solenoid, and crank the truck.
5. You can remove the belt, and hand crank the truck of the crank pulley bolt.
6. I am sure there is another method, but this should give you a couple of options.
Now, there are several ways to crank the engine, without actually starting the truck.
1. You can disconnect the CPS, and crank the truck.
2. You can remove the IDM relay, and crank the truck.
3. You can disconnect the 42 pin connector, and crank the truck.
4. If you have a 2000, you can use a screwdriver on the passenger side wheel well at the start solenoid, and crank the truck.
5. You can remove the belt, and hand crank the truck of the crank pulley bolt.
6. I am sure there is another method, but this should give you a couple of options.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
And mostly, whatever liquid does come out will paint the bottom of your hood and anything else in your garage!
If you don't have a MityVac and a little tube that you can stick in the glowplug hole to suck most of the fluid out, then handcrank each piston to TDC and clear as much fluid as you can from each GP hole - otherwise it'll drain back in.
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
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From: Texas
There is no issue using the starter to remove any excess fluid the MightyVac may have missed. Just put the valve cover on to avoid the mess. I have done this on three trucks when doing injectors and helped numerous friends do theirs as well. There is no issue doing it this way.
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Well I got it mostly together. Waiting on my new valve cover gasket and harness. I got all the cylinders evacuated and the glow plugs put in. Passenger side is together and torqued. But I got a roadblock. The last person to do an oil change put the filter on so tight that no amount of effort will break it loose. I have spent the last 3 hours trying to get it off and the only thi g I have managed to do is separate the filter. Now the threaded ring with the lip and gasket is all that is left hanging out on the truck. Any ideas to get this sucker off?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,350
Likes: 5,945
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
When I first bought my truck I had the same problem. I ended up going to Advance Auto and purchasing an expensive chain style filter wrench. This made the job doable, but still a bit difficult. I ended up returning it because I would never use it again.
I now use K&N filters with the 1" nut welded to the bottom like I do on the rest of my vehicles. Makes changing the filter very easy.
I now use K&N filters with the 1" nut welded to the bottom like I do on the rest of my vehicles. Makes changing the filter very easy.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2015
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I think there are a few problems with it. I think it was put on too tight, with no oil, and I think it's been on longer than the 1000 miles he said it has. I like using motorcraft filters, otherwise I would get the K&N. I have a claw type filter wrench for the smaller filters. I've never needed one for the larger ones. I may buy one now. I picked up a bigger pair of channel locks from a neighbor. I'm going to try those. Next step is involving that piece from the truck because I'm tired of laying on my back!