Camshaft selection
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
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From: St Albert, Alberta
I don't believe I read which cam you bought - but if it is similar to ones we talked about in the first couple of posts, you don't need to change springs (unless yours are worn out). The Cams we are recommending are close enough to stock lift and duration that the stock string rates are correct.
On the stud question, there are different styles used. If you have the "press in studs" or "non-adjustable" style it is generally recommended to replace with the screw in style (that requires machine work on the heads). I don't recall what style the 351W uses. This may be what the recommendation is about.
On the stud question, there are different styles used. If you have the "press in studs" or "non-adjustable" style it is generally recommended to replace with the screw in style (that requires machine work on the heads). I don't recall what style the 351W uses. This may be what the recommendation is about.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
Likes: 2,735
From: Virginia
Okay so I got the cam in and didn't realize it didn't come with lifters . I'm hearing a lot of Unsatisfied people saying comp lifters suck. I haven't even pulled it apart yet. But it's saying to replace some stud.... Is it referring to the rocker stud ? And saying it needs adjustable rockers or something . Also requires springs... I think I'll be okay to skip out on springs cause it's literally a work truck that will never see high rpm . If I'm not using the springs would the studs really be necessary ?from my understanding the stud would fail because of the increased spring load. And my truck will never ever see the valve float area ... I feel like these extra parts are needed cause people bounce their 4x4 off the rev limiter in the mud . And I feel like I'm the exception lol. I won't drive the truck any different than I did before . Possibly with a much lighter foot because of the increased power with minimal input . I'll be calling comp cams tomorrow and asking to speak to someone competent . We will see how that goes
But, when you put a different camshaft in place, that cam manufacturer was not as careful. It can have the same lift as the stock cam, but what they call the "base circle" can be different. This offsets the whole valvetrain and then the lifter plunger is not in the right place. You get ticking from a loose valvetrain or it won't run because the valves are open all the time.
You probably have the later style valve train where they actually used bolts to hold the rockers in place. To make the valve train adjustable the heads have to be pulled and some machine work needs to be done to install screw-in studs and guide plates. With guide plates you need to get hardened pushrods. It's a real can of worms, the stock heads are not worth all that time money to modify them.
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Could be, and I haven't looked up these specific parts (especially in this year vintage) for a LONG time now.
All I am saying is to be careful and pay attention to what you're doing, there are lots of options available today and misinformation gets spread easily.
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