I think the factory distributor is a real pain for a modified engine. It does work great on a stock engine, but needs modification for a modified engine and changing the weights and springs is a total dist teardown every time. You also need to do something with the vacuum advance, it advances too much for a modified souped up engine. If you can afford a aftermarket dist, I would do it.

 

Dave,

My very first car as a 16 yo kid was a 1970 Mustang Fastback with a 351W & FMX auto trans, and I replaced the timing set gears on it as a kid; the guys at the local auto parts store were telling me about 4* retarded factory cam and the various timing sets that were available back then. I didn't know Thing One about this stuff so I got the same factory-retarded timing set, I didn't know how to install & tune for a straight-up variation but they were available, even 35 years ago.

My point being, I'm under the impression that ALL the manufacturers were scrambling at the time to meet EPA requirements, and virtually all engines (at least the V8s) had these retarded, low-compression configurations that were being combined with these newfangled things known as Catalytic Converters that produced exhaust smells like rotten eggs (I used to ride my bicylce around delivering newspapers to people in the neighborhood and I paid attention to that aspect of stuff).

~~

Anyhow, I'll bet if we looked in the MPC and the like, we'd find the same retarded cams & timing sets the bigger V8s had.

 

Each time someone writes in with a 460 build-up or modifications, the retarded timing set always comes up in the conversation. When anyone is building up a 302/351w or even a 300 six, the retarded/advanced timing set is never on the list and is never in the conversation. The only thing that comes up is the plastic cam gear.

That is all I am saying. And I never hear "use this year timing set on a 302/351w to avoid the retarded cam timing".

 

I understand, and all I'm saying is what I learned as a kid in 1978/79. The FoMoCo Parts Catalog will have some answers but that takes time to look up.

 

I learn something new everyday. I will wait and see what happens, but I have read a lot of small block Ford engine build-up articles and have the book "How to Rebuild your Small Block Ford" and none of them mention this that I recall. Is everyone leaving power on the table because they are not switching the timing set out?

 

Could be, it depends on who asks and who answers and what information is available.

 

You can tell by looking at the crank gear. If the keyway is aligned with the tooth and timing dot - it is a "straight up" timing gear.


This is a 460 crank gear - but its the same idea.

 

I also have the same book when I built up a 302 with 351 heads and like you don't remember reading anything on timing chain sets.
Then again this was back in the early 80's and the book could of been printed before that so ????


Got to say that little 302 was a runner, used in a 68 Bronco w/C4 for racing off road. Sand drags everyone thought it was a chevy motor the way it ran till the hood was opened and saw the Ford motor.
Dave ----

 

This isn't a performance distributor. It's a very cheap factory style replacement . It looks practically brand new. But when I spin it (out of the motor) I hear a clicking coming from the advance mechanism under the reluctor wheel and magnetic pickup is this normal?

 

Typically when people build a "hot rod" v8 they are building something to dog out and want torque in the higher Rpm. And a retarded cam timing achieves this. It allows the motor to breathe better when it gets in higher rpm flowing lots of air. Versus an advanced cam timing which helps the motor breathe better at lower rpm. And straight up cam timing gives the broad powerbamd. Now my theory on why it isn't common knowledge about the smog retard is because it actually benefits the people with their mustangs or mud trucks I'm just the rare occasion that a 351w is being used for straight work lol . And ctubuis is right. I believe 1972 they started some emission regulations and motors had super low compression and retarded cam timing . They started learning about recirculating exhaust gasses to re burn them . And smog pumps. Something I've never seen nor understand the theory of operation. Guess after the 60s being a yuppie was trendy and those hippies stopped tripping acid and got jobs and a few thought they would not get jobs and protest and collect donations cause they don't like the smell. And started some kinda epa

 

There is no reason why you can't use that dist. in a performance motor.
I know of someone who ran a stock other than advance weight curve Motocraft dist in a drag car. ran in the 11's seconds NA and in the 10's with spray!



As for the noise when spinning, the weights could be moving in and out and making the noise. If it spins good other wise I would use it.
Dave ----

 

I haven't seen it yet. I just looked on Summit Racing, I searched for "timing gear sets". On the 302 they wanted to know if it was being used on a 2 piece eccentric or a 1 piece fuel pump eccentric. In general they had the different style chains, and they wanted to know if the block was align bored.

No mentioned of camshaft timing. I did pick one and it seems they do have certain year blocks that they say a certain chain set will fit. A lot of them started in 1985 and went up. Some had smaller year divisions than that though.

 

Okay so I got the cam in and didn't realize it didn't come with lifters . I'm hearing a lot of Unsatisfied people saying comp lifters suck. I haven't even pulled it apart yet. But it's saying to replace some stud.... Is it referring to the rocker stud ? And saying it needs adjustable rockers or something . Also requires springs... I think I'll be okay to skip out on springs cause it's literally a work truck that will never see high rpm . If I'm not using the springs would the studs really be necessary ?from my understanding the stud would fail because of the increased spring load. And my truck will never ever see the valve float area ... I feel like these extra parts are needed cause people bounce their 4x4 off the rev limiter in the mud . And I feel like I'm the exception lol. I won't drive the truck any different than I did before . Possibly with a much lighter foot because of the increased power with minimal input . I'll be calling comp cams tomorrow and asking to speak to someone competent . We will see how that goes

 

The Small block never got their cams retarded. In 72 the 335's got 4° of retard at the crank and the 385's got 8° of retard at the crank. No worries about cam timing in the small blocks they were all 0° from the factory.

 

I don't believe I read which cam you bought - but if it is similar to ones we talked about in the first couple of posts, you don't need to change springs (unless yours are worn out). The Cams we are recommending are close enough to stock lift and duration that the stock string rates are correct.


On the stud question, there are different styles used. If you have the "press in studs" or "non-adjustable" style it is generally recommended to replace with the screw in style (that requires machine work on the heads). I don't recall what style the 351W uses. This may be what the recommendation is about.