My 86 4.9 came with factory air ( I double check that it's factory air, it's got the big box inside the engine compartment and the inset dash bezel thing doesn't go all the way across the vents on the passenger side, it stops between them) that hasn't worked since I bought the truck a couple years ago. Since I've been able to get some of the more pressing problems taken care of (it hasn't set itself on fire in a long time, Hahahha) i'm moving down my to do list and finally got to the air-conditioner. I ordered this kit from Pit Stop Auto:




1986 Ford F-150 A/C Compressor and Clutch - 1011035

SKU: 1986-ford-f-150-1011035




1986 Ford F-150 A/C Orifice Tube - 1280016

SKU: 1986-ford-f-150-1280016




1986 Ford F-150 A/C System Rapid Seal Kit - 1520025

SKU: 1986-ford-f-150-1520025




1986 Ford F-150 PAG 46 8-OZ - 1900011

SKU: 1986-ford-f-150-1900011




1986 Ford F-150 A/C Accumulator - 1020185

SKU: 1986-ford-f-150-1020185




Any tips, advice, things I need to be on the lookout for when I do this job? Anything I missed?




I've replaced an AC compressor on an old Buick once and the only thing I had to do was use my compressor and blow some oil through all of the lines to make sure there wasn't any little parts and pieces in there that would come back around and screw up my new compressor. That's how I learned what an orifice tube was, because I didn't know it was there and my compressor shot it halfway to my neighbors house

 

I would add a new condenser to your parts list. The old R12 condensers are marginal for the newer R134a refrigerants... Also double check for correct type and quantity of PAG oil. Some compressors come preloaded with PAG oil...

 

Why are you using PAG oil? If you use it, you must flush out all the old oil from both the evap coil in the dash box, and the condensor coil in front of the radiator, and all the hoses. If you use ester oil you don't have to worry about the old r12 oil. Of course if the compressor comes with PAG I guess you will have to use it.

 

I would assume he is using PAG oil as the new compressor calls for that. He could do an A?C clean with the set-up if he has compressed air.

 

I didn't know about the differences in the condenser. I'll add that to the list to buy. Do I have to specifically search for one made for the new refrigerant, or will anything I buy new today be set up for the R134A?

I got the PAG oil because it came in the kit. I'm assuming that's what the compressor takes. I just told them to sell me whatever I needed to make this sh*# work. Louisiana in July is no fun without AC. It rains every afternoon which means I have to roll up the windows and sit in the cab poaching like an egg.

is there any specific way I need to clean out/blow out all the old crap it's in the system? From any specific direction, etc.?

 

If you add the Condenser - you might as well add the evaporator then you have a new system (less hoses). Plus then you will know that everything is clean (you don't want any of that "black death" that might be in the evaporator or condenser) to ruin your new compressor.


I'm not sure what the "rapid seal kit" is. Is that the O-rings or some liquid stop leak junk?


Lastly be sure to put in some "leak-detector dye" with the oil (the kind you use a black light to see).

 

Just to add, there are AC flush kits available. The kind I'm familiar with, your pour cleaner in a canister and pressurize it with air. The canister has a hose with a rubber tipped nozzle. The you stick the nozzle in the condenser or evaporator and blow the cleaner through.


You really need to have the condenser and evaporator out to clean it - flushing from both direction and turn the units up side down. But the flush doesn't really do a good job. The condenser/evaporator has multiple tubes or paths internally so the flush takes the path of least resistance.


When the shop I worked did 134a conversions (or if we were rebuilding a system due to "back death" we replaced the Condenser every time.

 

The condensor is on the output side of the compressor so it and the orifice screen get most of the crud if there is a failure.

 

ok, here's what I have saved on Amazon right now. Is this what I need?

UAC EV 0093PFC A/C Evaporator Core https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FQ0MBQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K7dyzb6ZD3403

Spectra Premium 7-4150 A/C Condenser for Ford Bronco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKSXVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u8dyzbZ9QDX1Z

FJC 2710 A/C System Flush Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JMEQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_99dyzb2YXZZQA

is this right?

 

There is no need for a flush kit since your changing all the parts.


Do you have a way to "vacuum" the system before charging?
If not you will need a vacuum pump (a tool) or go to a AC shop and have the evacuate the system and charge for you. Or just evacuate. Ideally, you pull a vacuum on the system for several hours then shut gauges and make sure the vacuum holds before charging.

Also, the Nappa parts store can remake AC hoses. You bring in your old one and they reuse the "ends" on new rubber hose. If any of the hoses are suspicious this is the time to deal with it.

Why don't you buy everything locally? It's a lot easier to exchange some part if it is damaged (in shipping) or doesn't match/fit what you have. I don't find Amazon much cheaper, if any, on the typical automotive parts I buy.

 

The way I hear it on the condenser:


The ones used for 134a are sized a little bigger to pull the heat out of the 134a.
That is why you hear of conversion from r12 not working as good.
Thing is you have only so much rood for the condenser to fit so you may not be able to go larger?


The next and there are posts on this the replacement condensers don't fit. Now this is for the earlier ones IIRC so you may be OK but do a search so you know what you are getting into.


Keep us posted
Dave ----

 

Regarding replacement condensers not fitting - is the reason to buy locally. if it isn't right it's a lot easier to drive it back to the store than to mail it back to Amazon.


On my conversion (FL truck) I had to add an external eclectic cooling fan (blow through) that comes on with the AC to keep pressures down when sitting in traffic.

 

If the original r12 condenser is in good shape you can use it, I have never had cooling problems with r134a using the original condenser. Yes, the larger one would probably work better, but the original one works plenty good enough.

Harbor Freight is a good place to get a vacuum pump and a set of r143a gauges. I have used my Harbor freight setup for several years and on many different cars and trucks. You can get a very good deal on them if you wait till they are on sale.

 

Local is one way of going just for that reason but the thing was the part numbers were right but the part was not in all the boxes the person got. I don't remember what the used did to get the one that fit?


I have not thought of a elect. fan over a larger coil? OR maybe both?

I have heard of others using the stock one with no issues. I have to replace mine as the PO put the water pump thru the condenser when he pulled the motor.
I am far from needing to install it so will cross that bridge when the time comes.
Dave ----

 

Some general thoughts on my AC experience here:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ce-thread.html


I would also highly recommend adding a heater shutoff valve, as detailed in that thread. It makes a big difference.

See post #12 for a link to a separate discussion about various orifice tubes you can use.


For flushing, I've used Interdynamics CA-1. It's an aerosol so is very simple to use, at a reasonable price:








To flush the flushing agent, I used argon from my MIG welder. It may be overkill, versus ordinary compressed air, but I wanted to keep moisture to an absolute minimum.