I'll get straight to the point on this one. I'm currently looking to build a fairly mild 351 for my 89 bronco backed by a zf5 with a carbed setup just looking for any build suggestions. The block came out of a car built in 79 and has hydraulic flat tappet lifters. So far the plan is to throw on a set of gt40p heads that I never used on my mustang I might have these ported when I get the holes for the head bolts drilled out and a Victor jr intake and possibly some roller rockers. As for the camshaft I'm not too sure about that yet, I'd prefer a kit that comes with new springs and lifters. Any suggestions? I'm looking to build this on a fairly thin budget and need it to be streetable, but at the same time a "stump puller" and for that reason I'm not going to be touching the bottom end. Any advice from anyone who has done a similar build is much appreciated.

 

Comp cams 35-234-3 or similar, I believe there are kits with lifters, springs and a timing set available too.

 

Also I forgot to ask if anyone knew if I would have to change the distributor gear on a hei style distributor to be able to run it with a comp cam? That is if do end up running one.

 

anyone ever use a CCA-K35-234-3 seems to be the best deal on summit

 

The cam is the last part you want to buy based on your intended use, compression ratio, rear end gears which will dictate your cruise rpm etc. I would not even think of using a Victor on your street engine, it's made for high rpm use........unless you just want it for the "wow" factor.

Lots of things to consider when designing an engine but the cam is the last thing. Do LOTS of research, go to a Ford only performance website and ask real quesstions about your build. So many guys have built what I call "magazine motors" full of race parts ..... large runner single plain intakes,a giant rumpity cam and waaaay too much compression that fall on thier face when used on the street.

 

I'd do a leak down on it before tearing it down. Putting fresh heads on a old bore and rings can be risky business. Now is the time to make sure the rings are not leaking.

 

The only stuff you want to use on that motor is the block, crank, and oilpan. If its a car motor than it likely doesn't have the football bolts. $200-$300 will buy a full set of bushed H beam rods that are stronger, lighter and come with arp bolts. Hyper eutectic flat tops are cheap but reliable for a street motor. Gt40p heads flow well but have their downfall. Proper springs, installed correctly with a mild port job and valve grind can do some good. Aluminum heads seem to be getting less expensive by the day so maybe look into a decent set as this will allow you to run higher compression which won't hurt. If in the budget, roller conversion w/ linkbar lifters is a wonderful upgrade over flat tappet camshaft.

 

Yea a buddy mentioned the same about the intake. I think I'm going to try to sell it and free up some money for the build, I have been looking at the summit stage 2 intake just not sure if it will clear a hei.

​​​​​​as of now the build consists of
-ported gt40p heads
-COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits K35-234-3 matching springs are included
-hei distributor
- Cams High Energy Pushrods 7835-16 8.152 overall length
- COMP Cams Magnum 1.6 ratio Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms 1431-16. Any other suggestions on rockers? I still haven't really decided on that yet.
- of course all gaskets
-intake probably just a cheapy
-carburetor. I believe a 600 or 650cfm should be fine, I might pick up a Holley 650 dp off of kijiji.

like I said very mild, I'd guess in the ballpark of 350HP. Do you think I'd really have to change out those rods/pistons? I always thought the 351w would take that power no problem. I'm not shooting for huge numbers and most of all not trying to break the bank. One more thing, I know there has to be some guru out there who knows if the guys at Ford marked the bolts on the main caps and a few other spots after torquing them? My good friend suggests they didn't and that it was probably done by a rebuilder.

 

Anyone know what headers I would have to use to make the p heads work in an 89

 

Most any Longtubes

 

Would I run 5.8 headers or would the gt40p heads require a 5.0 header?

 

There is no such thing as a 5.0 only head, the 5.0 and 5.8 use the same heads and both of these motors wore various GT40 heads from the factory for certain vehicles, but these engines have different dimensions so you would be advised to get 351/5.8 headers.