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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 12:00 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tommyl
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-cent-mod.html

here is a good place to check out.
When you worked on the vc, you may have jiggled the connector. After you ran it a while, it jiggled loose again. Hence the reason to do the 50 cent mod. In your case jsut do the one side for 25 cents.
The OP stated he used 1 piece aftermarket valve cover gaskets. Therefor there is no reason, or possible way to do the $0.50 mod. That involves using a trimmed down quarter to prevent the clip from opening, which holds the under valve cover harness plugged into the "pass-thru" connector in the gasket. His 1 piece gasket has the under valve cover harness permanently attached to the gasket. The only plug is on the outside where the engine side harness plugs in.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 12:55 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by carguy3j
The OP stated he used 1 piece aftermarket valve cover gaskets. Therefor there is no reason, or possible way to do the $0.50 mod. That involves using a trimmed down quarter to prevent the clip from opening, which holds the under valve cover harness plugged into the "pass-thru" connector in the gasket. His 1 piece gasket has the under valve cover harness permanently attached to the gasket. The only plug is on the outside where the engine side harness plugs in.
Maybe, maybe not. He's talking even numbered cylinders, 4 injectors and no 's' on his 'gasket'. I was thinking he only did one bank but it really isn't all that clear.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 01:04 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Maybe, maybe not. He's talking even numbered cylinders, 4 injectors and no 's' on his 'gasket'. I was thinking he only did one bank but it really isn't all that clear.
I did one bank. 2,4,6,8.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 01:14 PM
  #19  
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Check your harness and connections on the other side.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 01:59 PM
  #20  
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Pretty sure he mentioned the same codes came back, so it's still the driver side acting up. Inspecting the connector on the outside of the harness for a burnt pin, and the underside of the 42 pin harness would be my first steps. Pics below to give you an idea what to look for.

For regulars on a 7.3 forum those things are like the common cold, but for someone not familiar with the 7.3 in particular they are unknown. Even an awesome 6.0/6.4/6.7 tech might not know these details.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:02 PM
  #21  
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So where do I look for the burnt or broken wires? Do I take the whole harness out of the loom?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:52 PM
  #22  
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So I hooked up an "injector performance analyzer" box just now... All the injectors seem to be working except #2 and #8. I'm sure you all know what the box is but in case you don't.. You take the main injector harness off, plug any harness into it, the box and the truck harness hook up to the y harness. The box has 8 buttons on it. Start the truck and press each button individually, it shuts down that particular injector. 1,3,4,5,6,7, the truck starts idling worse, 2 and 8 it runs exactly the same.
I called a few guys to see if they had or know someone that has an IDM that I can borrow.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 04:41 PM
  #23  
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Break out box is a nice tool to have! Kinda doubt it's the IDM since the problem is specific to 2 injectors. Be sure to check the wires as I mentioned above.

Another good tool for your 7.3 arsenal is an app like Torque Pro or ForScan. They have modules specifically for 7.3s because they are kinda quirky. Hooked up to your android phone with a
 blue tooth OBDII thingy blue tooth OBDII thingy
you'll be scanning codes and reading sensors like Mr Spock.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 07:24 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
Break out box is a nice tool to have! Kinda doubt it's the IDM since the problem is specific to 2 injectors. Be sure to check the wires as I mentioned above.

Another good tool for your 7.3 arsenal is an app like Torque Pro or ForScan. They have modules specifically for 7.3s because they are kinda quirky. Hooked up to your android phone with a blue tooth OBDII thingy you'll be scanning codes and reading sensors like Mr Spock.
Sounds good...thank you!!
 
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 08:16 PM
  #25  
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I also did the buzz test again and 1,3,5,7 were very loud.. 2,4,6,8 weren't nearly as loud.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 07:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by blwn350
I also did the buzz test again and 1,3,5,7 were very loud.. 2,4,6,8 weren't nearly as loud.
Not to be off base here, but you do realize the odd number cylinders are on the passenger side.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 08:21 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tommyl
Not to be off base here, but you do realize the odd number cylinders are on the passenger side.
Yeah I do....
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 08:01 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
Pretty sure he mentioned the same codes came back, so it's still the driver side acting up. Inspecting the connector on the outside of the harness for a burnt pin, and the underside of the 42 pin harness would be my first steps. Pics below to give you an idea what to look for.

For regulars on a 7.3 forum those things are like the common cold, but for someone not familiar with the 7.3 in particular they are unknown. Even an awesome 6.0/6.4/6.7 tech might not know these details.
So, I just wanted to give you guys an update. I went outside after work and I was looking over everything you guys told me to look at and, we have a winner... aawlberninf350, you hit the nail right on the head!!! The underside of the harness it was. There were a couple wires that the insulation was worn down and the bare wires were touching the valve cover. It's all fixed now and running perfect. I spent a lot more then I should have but I guess you live and learn. Thank you to all that helped me out.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 06:43 AM
  #29  
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Conagrats and thanks for the follow up. I'm surprised that those shorted wires don't blow the IDM or something.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 06:57 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Conagrats and thanks for the follow up. I'm surprised that those shorted wires don't blow the IDM or something.
Luckily they didn't. Before I checked the harness, I replaced the IDM with a known good one and obviously that wasn't it. After that I put my IDM in and checked the harness.
 
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