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Radiator burst!! Decisions and actions time!! Input desired.

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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Radiator burst!! Decisions and actions time!! Input desired.

 
  #16  
Old 06-29-2017, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by IHpuller450 View Post
Just figured I'd drop my $.02 in here on this subject

I have owned my 6.4 for 5 years now, when I first bought it I was driving it round trip to work 100+ miles per day.

I experienced my first radiator failure at approx 60,xxxmi. I spent countless hours reading forums dedicated to the rad issues in these trucks and finally decided on the mishimoto v1 rad. Installed myself at home in about three hours, did some other pm things in the process also. My thought process at the time was that these trucks are notorious for having rad failures and I'll spend the extra coin to have a better cooling rad and one that is replaced free of charge if I have another issue.

I experienced my second failure at approx 80,xxx. Truck was already scheduled to go to my local diesel shop for head studs and manifolds and up pipes. This was done out of caution, not need. I had the shop install the rad at the same time. Talk about relief when my mishimoto v2 showed up at no charge, after saving to have my heads pulled and so on I wouldn't have been able to afford to purchase another radiator. (Note: at this point the truck was just a weekend warrior, I attained a company truck and maybe put 200mi on a week, it was about a year and a half since the first rad had been installed.)

I currently have my 3rd mishimoto (v2) sitting in the shop waiting to go into the truck. Currently truck has 102,xxxmi. Again at no charge to me. I just want to take a minute and say that if I would have gone with a stock rad the first time I would have now needed to buy 3. This is two years since the shop installed the 2nd rad.

After seeing these failures it is blatantly obvious to me that these failures are caused by chassis flex, not cooling system issues. My cap on the degas bottle gets replaced with every oil change, I have no EGR coolers to contribute to elevated pressures in the cooling system. My heads were 100% square when pulled and checked and I don't beat the truck, never been above 1100 degrees EGT temp and very rarely see even 900degrees. Coolant temp has never seen 200 degrees.

I can't say enough about mishimoto's customer service.

Regarding those of you that still have EGR coolers installed on your trucks, exhaust and coolant are still present in the coolers. All the tune does is close the valve where the exhaust would re enter the intake, thus your potential for failure is still present. These trucks will crack coolers even with the valve closed. A cracked cooler will fill the rear drivers side with coolant and cause a hydro lock situation. Why take the chance of ruining a 15k engine when a EGR delete can be had for less than $500 and 4-5 hours of time in your shop?
Dang man. Your truck has seen some severe frame flexing over the years to need that many rad changes...especially being aftermarket. I got into my truck at 73k. Lets just assume the dealer put a new rad in before they sold it to me. I'm sitting at 112k now with no issues. I did change my coolant cap from the factory one...but I don't change it every oil change(5k). Is it your experience that the springs in the cap lose temper, no longer maintaining 16psi, and need replacing that often?

I hear you on the EGR coolers. I need to delete those asap but I'm a pretty green mechanic. I did remove the DPF filter and swap that out myself. Is the mechanical level sufficient there? Would I pull the driver side wheel to make access to the horizontal cooler easier?
 
  #17  
Old 06-29-2017, 07:35 PM
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Honestly, I just replace the cap that often because 1. They're cheap 2. I remember to do it if I do it every time. I replace because they're a known issue and I'd rather be safe than sorry.

If you buy a reputable EGR delete kit it should come with some pretty straight forward directions. Removing the inner fender may grant you some better access but I didn't take mine out.

I'll post a link to my build thread with some more detailed descriptions on everything I've done.
 
  #18  
Old 06-29-2017, 07:38 PM
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  #19  
Old 06-29-2017, 09:01 PM
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Right on man. Thanks IH.
 
  #20  
Old 06-29-2017, 09:47 PM
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Hey Peck'r heads, thought this was my show!!! Great info on the next step,,,,,,,,,right pic?!!

I'll tear mine out in the next few weeks. Only thing I'm worried about is capping the aft most pipe by the ebp sensor and not reinforcing it.

Words of wisdom?????/


Denny
 
  #21  
Old 06-30-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselDenny View Post
Hey Peck'r heads, thought this was my show!!! Great info on the next step,,,,,,,,,right pic?!!
Denny
Lol...You and me both need to tear ours out asap!
 
  #22  
Old 07-09-2017, 08:06 PM
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Just staying to date and will post the progress.

Everything is staged. I have the EGR delete kit, a new oem rad, new MC therms, coolant and I just picked off the last scab from the last crap go around.

3ish 30 packs, a fishbox cooler off the boat and everythings iced down. 1 carton of smokes and I'll make pulled pork tomorrow for sandwiches so I can stay focused without leaving the garage.

I downloaded youtube videos from the best and have it on a laptop so I can pause and follow real time.

I'm kinda girlish about doing all this at once after the truck falling on me episode, but I'm feeling like it's time to dust off the toolbox. (I did get new jackstands and will throw the front wheels under the nose this time just because.)

Enjoy the week peeps!!

Denny
 
  #23  
Old 07-10-2017, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselDenny View Post
...3ish 30 packs, a fishbox cooler off the boat and everythings iced down. 1 carton of smokes and I'll make pulled pork tomorrow for sandwiches so I can stay focused without leaving the garage...
Epic. Now this is what I call top notch planning prior to spinning some wrenches. Good luck Denny...stay safe under there man!
 
 
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