My '72 F250 is getting ready for the Big Six, which is slowly taking shape in the shop. I've finally made all of the performance decisions, except which cam to go with. Here's the specs so far- stock 300 short block, rebuilt. Rebuilt 240 head, stock valve train. Offy 'C' intake, planning to run an Autolite 2100 with an adapter. EFI exhaust manifolds, going into a fairly open muffler. I haven't decided on a distributor yet- Maybe DUI?

The truck is a '72 F250. Tranny will be a rebuilt C6. I'm not sure of the rear end gearing yet. Usage will be around town, farm truck, pulling a heavy (7000 lb.) trailer a few times a year.

I want it to start and run reliably! Low end grunt for pulling stuff. It will rarely see the highway. Fuel mileage is unimportant. Just a good 'ole stump puller for a work truck.

I have a new stock cam, but would like to get the most out of the other upgrades. While I have it apart, I'd like to put in the best cam for the purpose. It has been suggested to run a stock came using a 4 degree advanced timing set. Either way, the cost is similar. Thoughts?

 

I'd run the stock cam with the Chevy 1.75 rocker arms.

 

Will the Chevy rockers bolt on in place of the Ford ones? What are the Chevy rockers from- small block?

 

I found Comp Cams 1261-12, a set for an inline six. Will I have any clearance problems? Stock lifters, pushrods, etc. OK?

 

the stock chebby inline rockers will fit just fine under the factory ford valve cover. they simply replace the ford rockers in the same position. Additional strain is added in a couple areas of the valvetrain, so...ARP rocker studs are recommended. However, many have used them with press in studs without any issues also. Your lifters and pushrods will not need any change...run what you have as long as they're working well for you.

 

What's involved with installing the ARP rocker studs? I just had the head gone through, but everything is stock. I'm a tool maker by trade, so if there's machining, I can handle that.

 

On your head - really simple. Pull the pressed in studs. Spot face the bosses down to the thickness of the stud hex PLUS the fillet radius. Tap the existing hole to 7/16-NC. Install studs with sealer on the threads to prevent coolant leakage. Studs are available in either 7/16" x 3/8" or 7/16" x 7/16" sizes.

 

For reference, my local machine shop charged me $125 (minus the cost of the new ARP studs) to do this entire process. Pulled the studs, measured and machined down the bosses, and tapped the holes.