Cam swap tutorials and grind suggestions
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2012
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Cam swap tutorials and grind suggestions
I have my '67 F250 (352 2BBL, slightly modified Cruise-o, 2000RPM stall converter, stock Dana 60 with 4.10 gears) and I am about to pull the engine on for a reseal. I am considering swapping a mild cam in which would suit a 4BBL upgrade with headers and basically no other changes.
Can anyone make cam grind recommendations (a couple of mild Crane cams have already been suggested), and more importantly has anyone seen a thread or online "how to" for cam swaps?
JIM
Can anyone make cam grind recommendations (a couple of mild Crane cams have already been suggested), and more importantly has anyone seen a thread or online "how to" for cam swaps?
JIM
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Due to the lack of compression, you don't want a BIG cam. I'd say 252 or 260 advertised duration. Haven't looked at that stuff in a long time, but that's the basics. Not sure if they call them RV cams or not? Just over stock.
Swapping cams isn't a big deal, especially since you're pulling the engine. Once the intake and front cover are off, that's half the work.
Remove rockers and pushrods. Pull lifters. Pull cam, replace. Reinstall everthing. Might think to get a nice roller chain for it too. A stock chain will do too, anything new will help since the stock nylon cam gear will be worn out. Most replacement stock chains come with steel cam gear. Either will work fine.
Staying with a very small cam will keep you from having to deal with lifter preload and getting valve train set up right. Should be a bolt in.
Swapping cams isn't a big deal, especially since you're pulling the engine. Once the intake and front cover are off, that's half the work.
Remove rockers and pushrods. Pull lifters. Pull cam, replace. Reinstall everthing. Might think to get a nice roller chain for it too. A stock chain will do too, anything new will help since the stock nylon cam gear will be worn out. Most replacement stock chains come with steel cam gear. Either will work fine.
Staying with a very small cam will keep you from having to deal with lifter preload and getting valve train set up right. Should be a bolt in.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 540
Likes: 1
Due to the lack of compression, you don't want a BIG cam. I'd say 252 or 260 advertised duration. Haven't looked at that stuff in a long time, but that's the basics. Not sure if they call them RV cams or not? Just over stock.
Swapping cams isn't a big deal, especially since you're pulling the engine. Once the intake and front cover are off, that's half the work.
Remove rockers and pushrods. Pull lifters. Pull cam, replace. Reinstall everthing. Might think to get a nice roller chain for it too. A stock chain will do too, anything new will help since the stock nylon cam gear will be worn out. Most replacement stock chains come with steel cam gear. Either will work fine.
Staying with a very small cam will keep you from having to deal with lifter preload and getting valve train set up right. Should be a bolt in.
Swapping cams isn't a big deal, especially since you're pulling the engine. Once the intake and front cover are off, that's half the work.
Remove rockers and pushrods. Pull lifters. Pull cam, replace. Reinstall everthing. Might think to get a nice roller chain for it too. A stock chain will do too, anything new will help since the stock nylon cam gear will be worn out. Most replacement stock chains come with steel cam gear. Either will work fine.
Staying with a very small cam will keep you from having to deal with lifter preload and getting valve train set up right. Should be a bolt in.
I'll look into roller chains but really don't know what they are.... Timing chains don't exist in air cooled VW's (my only background) and upgrading from a nylon ANYTHING sounds like a good idea... Are there different set ups for timing chain and gear or does whatever is available pretty much sub for stock (meaning no mods necessary to use them)?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
I am a Lunati fan check out the vodoo line
i have a 62001 in mine it's actually milder than i would have preferred , probably perfect for your application. I should have went with the 62002 or 62003 oh well the next build .
i have a 62001 in mine it's actually milder than i would have preferred , probably perfect for your application. I should have went with the 62002 or 62003 oh well the next build .
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Sorry.
A roller chain looks like a bike chain, basically. The stock chain is different design, and the original cam gear was nylon coated to help reduce noise(not that you can hear it, but some engineer thought so). Tyipcally after 30-40 yrs, the nylon gets brittle and falls off. Sooner or later the chain will jump time and leave you stranded.
Most stock replacement chain sets come with two steel gears(no nylon) and are pretty cheap(like $25 set), typical roller chain set is more like $70-100. For your application, the stock chain would last a lifetime.
Here are pics and prices:
Timing Set | 1969 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders H 6.4L 2BL OHV | AutoZone.com
You can see the difference in the style of chain between OEM and roller(ie: performance).
A roller chain looks like a bike chain, basically. The stock chain is different design, and the original cam gear was nylon coated to help reduce noise(not that you can hear it, but some engineer thought so). Tyipcally after 30-40 yrs, the nylon gets brittle and falls off. Sooner or later the chain will jump time and leave you stranded.
Most stock replacement chain sets come with two steel gears(no nylon) and are pretty cheap(like $25 set), typical roller chain set is more like $70-100. For your application, the stock chain would last a lifetime.
Here are pics and prices:
Timing Set | 1969 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders H 6.4L 2BL OHV | AutoZone.com
You can see the difference in the style of chain between OEM and roller(ie: performance).
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 884
Likes: 13
From: Bassett Virginia
Yeah, I think lunati has some of the best cams you can buy unless you have one special ground to the specs you want. I think the 262-268 Duration cam is the biggest you can go without a stall converter and without changing your valve train.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
I used a torque grind from Delta on my 360, along with an adjustable timing set. I set mine to 4 degrees advanced, which added more off the line torque.
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More Turbo
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I'm looking at this one from Crane:
Crane Cams 343902 - Crane PowerMax Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
It's available without lifters as well, but since I have to swap to new ones anyway why not buy the kit...? It's the second lowest aggressive grind available for my engine too with an RPM range of 1200-4800. Reading the characteristics on Crane's spec page make it sound like a good choice for my intended uses.
Crane Cams 343902 - Crane PowerMax Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
It's available without lifters as well, but since I have to swap to new ones anyway why not buy the kit...? It's the second lowest aggressive grind available for my engine too with an RPM range of 1200-4800. Reading the characteristics on Crane's spec page make it sound like a good choice for my intended uses.
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