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Injector orings

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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 11:50 AM
  #46  
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I was running SRL tune until last year I got the SRL+. Both would smoke at takeoff. SRL+ more so. I had always saw people saw they run the same tune with no smoke at all so Iv always been a little unhappy with my turbo lag. I replaced the VGT solenoid 3 years ago when I cleaned the VGT parts of it which didn't help any. So Iv been kinda expecting the turbo to die eventually lol.


The injectors are not hard to disassemble. Either buy a holder tool or make one. I made one. It just goes in a vise and you put your injector in the tool with the injector hold down and bolt. Then unscrew the body. One of the most important things it to make sure you don't loose the little pieces inside. The check ball and the metering plate are real small and easily lost.
I told myself after I was done "dang it I should have taken pictures and done a write up on this".

I put all the internals in a ultra sonic cleaner too.
When I can log in from a computer I'll find the thread where it shows lots of pictures that someone here done a while back. I don't recall at the moment who it was but it was a great write up.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 11:52 AM
  #47  
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Here is the thread I was talking about. I figured out how to paste it here on my phone.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rks-great.html
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 02:35 PM
  #48  
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Thanks for the link!!

I had Matt re-do the tune several times and the heavy smoke was a major reason. I also had him hold the shift higher in the RPM range on heavy throttle, lock the convertor up quick once it shifted so I could step down some and avoid a down shift... Hindsight that probably drives up EGTs. Once it gets into gear, I have to step down pretty hard to force the shift. Normally it won't downshift at highway speeds or even unlock the convertor and I easily go around slower cars.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 02:58 PM
  #49  
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Iv never had him change anything on my tune although I would like to. I just haven't gotten around to it. It is very quick to downshift into a passing gear which sometimes I would like to just ease into it some and not downshift. Now if I go like 3/4 pedal or floor it then yes by all means downshift but normal driving and easing into it for a small hill or something like that just stay in gear and climb it. I know it can. Lol

I have a SCT TSX which was the first attempt of a touchscreen. I liked it at first but over time I grew to hate it. It's not even supported now. It uses BT for wireless communications. The battery sucks. It lags bad. And just overall buggy. It takes hard presses on the screen to do anything and now days if I try to load a tune I have to be very careful because of the battery. Even if I have it plugged up to 12v power port sometimes it turns off like the battery just died. I'm honestly scared to even try and load a tune or anything.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 04:51 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by goosehunta
Iv never had him change anything on my tune although I would like to. I just haven't gotten around to it. It is very quick to downshift into a passing gear which sometimes I would like to just ease into it some and not downshift. Now if I go like 3/4 pedal or floor it then yes by all means downshift but normal driving and easing into it for a small hill or something like that just stay in gear and climb it. I know it can. Lol

I have a SCT TSX which was the first attempt of a touchscreen. I liked it at first but over time I grew to hate it. It's not even supported now. It uses BT for wireless communications. The battery sucks. It lags bad. And just overall buggy. It takes hard presses on the screen to do anything and now days if I try to load a tune I have to be very careful because of the battery. Even if I have it plugged up to 12v power port sometimes it turns off like the battery just died. I'm honestly scared to even try and load a tune or anything.
If you ahve a place like Batteries Plus near by you might take it into them
and see if they can stuff a new batterie into it. Sort of sounds like a Li-ion
or one of the Li flavors going into protection mode and killing the operating
power. So much better than to have it burst into smoke and flames.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 07:47 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
If you ahve a place like Batteries Plus near by you might take it into them and see if they can stuff a new batterie into it. Sort of sounds like a Li-ion or one of the Li flavors going into protection mode and killing the operating power. So much better than to have it burst into smoke and flames.

I haven't even thought about that. That a good idea. Definitely at least worth a try. Maybe they can.
I haven't contacted SCT about but I don't think they would or could do anything for it. It's sad that I paid like $600 for it when I got it and now it's almost worthless.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 08:11 PM
  #52  
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That is the problem with technology items. Cash today trash tomorrow.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 08:21 PM
  #53  
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That happens with high end audio, too. I had no problem waiting for flavor of the year to wear out and get stuff at 50%. Audio is sooooo subjective people bounce through stuff at a high rate.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 09:10 PM
  #54  
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Yep sure enough. Technology in general is high at first. Just wait a little bit and the price will come down.
I tell people all the time that the price of everything keeps going up except for tvs. Lol
 
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Old Jul 30, 2017 | 03:55 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by goosehunta
Does anyone know what the size of the internal oring is? So far I have had no luck finding the size. I'm looking for the lower housing to body oring.
Any updates?
Tried to pm you but the inbox is full.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2017 | 10:10 PM
  #56  
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The o-rings I used worked well to take care of the leaks I had going on. Truck runs smooth now. But truck is still parked due to bad turbo. Can't win for loosing. Gotta save up some cash for a turbo and I'm also kinda worried about my lifters also so I may do them when I do the turbo. But the orings cured the rough running I was having. Leaking orings caused low fuel pressure which caused rough running.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:03 AM
  #57  
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Doing lifters is not a walk in the part.
You have to pull the engine or the trans to get at the rear cover so you
can remove the branch tube. That is the only way to get at the back set
of lifters.

How many miles do you have on that engine?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 10:01 AM
  #58  
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Yep! I was planning to pull the engine out. I pulled it out at about 170k miles for studds and head gaskets, bed plate oil pan gaskets Yada yada. I told myself then I should go ahead and replace all the lifters but I wouldn't listen to myself lol. Now she has 297k miles. It runs smooth even while running a non compensated balance test on IDS. But I can hear a little "woof woof woof" sound standing by the engine so I'm suspecting a weak lifter on a intake valve.

Am I on the right track?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #59  
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Hearing a woof woof tells me it's time for a real compression test.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 03:58 PM
  #60  
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Compression test lowest was 350 psi highest was 370. If I remember correctly
 
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