Hello All! Newby here! First time diesel owner - bought a 39' 5th wheel toy hauler and needed truck to pull. Bought a 2006 F350 SD 6.0L Lariat Dually LB with tow package (had gooseneck already). I apparently was duped by the dealer. I was recommended to him by a friend of a friend, who was friends with the Ford dealer owner for 25 years. Owner said he found the perfect truck (for my budget), and was making sure it was "a great, safe truck for me." I made clear I was a female traveling alone and would be hauling a 8.5 ton trailer across country. Sent me a few pics, said he put 6 new tires, 2 new batteries, new brakes, fixed a small axel leak, and did an alignment. Said it had the 5th wheel hitch, when in fact it was a gooseneck. After multiple conversations and texts with owner where he kept saying what a great truck this was for me, I negotiated price over the phone, and drove 6 hours to NC to get the truck - trusting him because of his friendship with Atlanta area person and because he kept telling me how he was going to be sure I had a great truck. He wouldn't give me a decent price on my Highlander so I wouldn't trade - he did pay for a chase team to drive my Highlander back to Atlanta.

But that's where the fun and games ended.

Left dealership at 4:45 p.m. on Saturday. I stayed the night in NC rather than drive 12 hours round trip; too tired to play with the truck, I just crashed at hotel. In the morning I got up and went to set mirrors etc. for the long drive home, realized the passenger electric mirror did not operate properly. Inspection showed the top mechanism was broken.
Drove a 55mph limit road to the highway, then highway to Atlanta. Didn't notice anything terribly unusual (knew I had to get used to Diesel, slower on the uptake, etc.).
As soon as I got back to Atlanta and driving surface streets and slower speeds, I started noticing a terrible shaking - it took me 2 days to realize this was not just big truck behavior. When I reach 40 mph the truck starts shaking terribly. If I punch it or when I exceed 50 mph, it calms down. Or if I drive over 50 it's not noticeable. From the description of the "death wobble" I don't think it's that.

When I told the dealership about the mirror, they disavowed knowledge or responsibility, but "relented" to send me the repair kit (mirror panel and connectors), leaving it to me to pay someone to install it. When I told them about the shaking, they totally disavowed that as well and offered no advice and made it clear they didn't plan on doing anything about it, saying maybe it threw a weight or something.

NOW - 4 weeks later, I'm having trouble starting the truck if it sits for 4-5 days (I drove the truck for 3 weeks, but I began driving the Highlander again until I can get it sold - figured might as well save on gas costs and drive it around with For Sale signs). I wondered it if was because my driveway is a bit slanted, but a friend who has driven Ford diesels for years said that doesn't matter. It did it last week, but after 3-4 tries, it finally turned over. But today it wouldn't no matter what (again 4-5 days sitting).

HELP!!! I need to figure out the shaking and the refusal to start. It's pretty slow getting up the not so mountainous hill out of my subdivision too - wasn't sure if that was just how these big engines are. Worries me to try and pull camper up and down mountain roads out west ?

My friend is coming over to see if he can inspect and figure out what's going on, but I thought it couldn't hurt to post here and see what the brilliant minds could offer! I need to be sure this truck is safe before I try pulling the toy hauler. Not only will I tow it on short trips, but I'm planning on traveling the country.
Thanks!!!!
Contessa

 

my money is on fuel delivery problem such as clogged filers, poor fuel pump, injector clogging, etc.


you can try to start it by first turning the key halfway (when all the lights and bells happens) and let it sit that way for 10 seconds....then continue turning the key to start. It may take one or two attempts to start it this way. if it starts....then its likely a clogged fuel filter or issue with fuel pump.


why does this cuase shaking at 40 to 50 mph????? the shaking during fuel delivery problem is because of vapor locking that occurs when not enough fuel enters the combustion chambers....its a form of suction...and this suction cuases the engine to give resistance to the transmission causing the shaking.


clogged fuel filter could be cuased by jelling....operating the truck at cold conditions with out adding anti jell....the jell accumulates in the tank and you sucked them into the filter on the way home.

if the filter replacement temporarily resolves the problem...but the problem returns...you will have to have your tank drained and flushed to get all the jell out and if you reuse the fuel...the fuel will have to be strained. and of course the filters changed again.

 

Thanks Speakerfritz! I will pass this on to my friend to consider when he checks out the truck. I never thought one thing might be causing both problems :-) Wouldn't that be convenient to kill two birds with one stone?

BTW - your instruction on turning the key and wait a few seconds is how I was instructed I should always start it so that's what I was doing; but maybe I didn't let it sit long enough? I'll try again and let it sit a few extra seconds.

Contessa

 

You also need to get some type of reader to be able to read and monitor several engine parameters on a 6.0. I use a scan gauge2, works well although it is not the best code reader. Read all the stickies in the 6.0 forum so you know the things to be aware of on the 6.0, they can be a very good engine, but they also can have an awful lot of problems. For service make sure whoever you use is very knowledgeable on the 6.0 and ALWAYS use filters (oil and fuel) from Ford, Navistar or Racor and only the OEM oil filter caps, some after market filters have their own cap to get around the patents on the filters and can create all kinds of headaches, especially if mixed with OEM filters.

 

Fuel is rarely the cause of a 6.0 no-start, and it can be ruled out pretty easily. But since you have a low power concern, it's worth looking at since it's pretty straightforward. Remove the cap on the secondary filter, use a turkey baster, tube, or even a shop towel to drain the housing. Then have someone turn the key halfway until the "wait to start" light (the squiggly line) comes on, then watch the housing fill up. If it does in a couple seconds, then you can back burner that for now. (obviously have the person turn the key off when the housing starts filling up, have an old towel wrapped around the housing, and don't let it overflow). If the fuel bowl fills up in a 3-6 seconds, and the engine (once started) ever smooths out and runs at roughly a normal power level, then there's sufficient fuel pressure to rule that out as the primary cause of the no start. You'll ultimately want to install the updated fuel pressure regulator kit, it's something every truck with this engine needs done eventually, but that's probably not a "today" issue.
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ford-f...ue-spring-kit/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ue-spring.html

Draining the housing:


Wait to start light, and location of the secondary filter, labeled "fuel filter" approximately in the middle next to the yellow circle handle on the oil dip stick:

 

When it cranks, does it sound even like in this video? If it does, odds are the injectors aren't even trying to fire fuel during the crank-no start, meaning your looking more for a high pressure oil leak. If it IS chugging and trying but failing to start, if you've changed the fuel filters then it could be the injectors, it's fairly common that old oil builds up a varnish on a valve inside the injector, and causes the engine to run rough. To diagnose that you have to have access to a scanner, commonly called "gauges" even though they're all digital. More info on options for that here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

There's really no way around needing a scanner, either buying one or having a shop put one on it. Hard parts get expensive in a hurry, so the time and effort spent on diagnostics pays for itself very quickly.

One thing you should probably do right now is change the oil. In this engine oil is used to fire the fuel injectors and that system is the most common cause of no-starts. You should get a 5W-40 diesel oil, and only use a filter made by Motorcraft or Racor, paired with an original oil filter cap. It sounds silly, but some other brands of filters (WIX is one example) use a different length of filter and come with a replacement taller cap, and if you mix and match that taller cap with a correct shorter filter the drain at the bottom of the housing isn't compressed and oil can bypass the filter. You can tell the correct filter because it was a series of patent numbers listed on the bottom of the filter by the felt gasket.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chevron-D...n-Jug/20896087
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraf...ilter/16880600
Oil Filter Replacement Cap 03-07 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

Even crank video (@ ~24 seconds):

 

Oil and Fuel Filter change guides attached here:
One bit of advice, don't use the 1/2" square hole in the fuel filter cap, it tends to cause them to crack. The small fuel filter cap in the engine bay needs a 24mm socket, the oil filter and the large fuel filter on the frame rail need a 36mm socket.

 

Good posts Bryan very informative hopefully it helps out the op tried to send you some reps but looks like I gotta spread it around guess a cheers will have to do.

 

I was advised to find a Ford rep on this site - I need to get my hands on a service log for my truck - it's becoming clear that the dealership that sold me the truck sold me a bag of problems; one thing I've discovered today is that even though they told me in writing they put two new batteries in it, only one appears to be new; the other (secondary) battery is far from new, and doesn't even have a date sticker on it. My friend who knows Ford diesels says it's likely the battery is bad and it drained both of them - they were so dead they wouldn't even jump off his diesel.
I just went and bought a charger, and will then do a diagnosis and will see what happens.
Thanks!
Contessa

 

You can get an Oasis report from any dealer if that's what you're needing?

 

So your main problem is one bad battery after buying from a dealership? Get a new battery and call it a day. There's a lot worse that could have happened. I briefly worked at a shady used car lot and quit after refusing to sell a dodge hemi with a nasty rod knock. "Just tell 'em it's a simple exhaust leak." Most used car lots are full of crooks looking to make as much profit off you, regardless of how much they screw you over. It would cost them more to replace both batteries, instead of just the one. Their goal is to get the truck sellable for as little money possible.
There's no reason to drag ford into this...

Are you having any other problems with the truck?

 

Ford Motor Company
Customer Relationship Center
P.O. Box 6248
Dearborn, MI 48121
1-800-392-3673 (FORD)
(TDD for the hearing impaired:
1-800-232-5952)
www.customersaskford.com


Since this is more of an issue with that specific dealership (probably independently owned), I believe you are probably heading towards small claims court.

 

More info in the first post (superduty forum)

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-5-days.html

Bryan offered a bunch of good help there. Wondering if any of that advice has been done?

 

Brandonrr - it's much more involved than one bad battery (that bad battery killed the one they did install). It's become evident the dealer sold me a pack of problems. I want the report to know what they did to the truck to know if there is anything else they didn't do that they said they did. This truck is not safe (unknown shaking and dying) - I spend a lot of time in remote outdoors, and also driving on highways, and I'm also wanting to tow a 39' camper - none of which can be done safely in the condition this truck is in. I don't yet know what's it's going to cost me in time and money. I already blew all of yesterday and will need to pick up efforts today, and money will need to be spent. Nice holiday weekend.

 

The shaking and dying is likely a bad injector. If you can get it scanned for DTC codes you will probably have a cylinder contribution code, you can have pending codes without a check engine light.