Threads merged

 

If you have the time to get it checked out - recommend Bill Hewitt at:


Powerstroke Specialty, LLC.
1046 Parkway Court, Suite D
Buford, GA 30518

(770) 931-4070
M-F 9am-6pm


Check out his site - Powerstrokehelp.com

 

The fail in this series of threads is just so, so much


So to attempt to steer this back towards sanity....
1) Have you got that oil change done yet?
2) Checked the fuel filters while you were at it?
3) Access to a scanner? Or thought about buying a gauge setup?

 

George thanks for the help.

The question should be am I sucking up to my boss?

Back to the 6.0l question.

If you don't mind going this route then a Scanguage 2 is one of the options
to read live data..https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-ii/
The Scanguage II is standalone.
Then there are the ELM devices. They need a tablet or smartphone to use them
or a laptop if you want to go that way.

 

Thank You George

Since merging both threads, it may appear to those of you just checking in a mess but.... we can all have a round of Hugs and get back to normal.


Welcome to FTE Contessa1
People usually find FTE after a problem arises.

 

Yes, Thanks George.

For those of you that just saw the 6.0 side: "need to find Ford Rep" thread, go back to the 1st page (now that these are merged) and you will get a much better picture of history, OP's level of knowledge, how she found this truck, and how we got to here...

Scott

 

thank you Yahiko. That's basically my plan - once I can get the damn thing started. Get the diagnostics done to be sure I don't ruin any new batteries I put in. Friend suggested having two tow plugs replaced as they are old and if they have any sort of short could drain batteries. To briefly reiterate, they said they put 2 new batteries, it's obvious one is quite old; that one may have killed the new one. I have both of them at O'Reilly's now being tested to see if bad (I'm betting at least the old one is). We couldn't even jump the new one with another big diesel.
Here's a new question - I went to O'Reilly's because they carry the Motorcraft battery that's in the truck - thought I could get the warranty swap-out. She said no, only if you bought it here - the warranty inures to the dealership, as they bought it. I can't bring myself to talk to them and have them deny me I'll blow my lid - would it be worth trying the local dealer to see if they will do it? I don't want to spend close to $200 for a battery that was shipped 11/16!

 

And sorry for the confusion over the 2 threads - never used one of these before - I'll get the hang of it. I'm usually smarter than the average bear, but I'm sure I'm coming off as a dope in here, especially since I'm new to diesels. I promise I'm taking all advice to heart (and blowing raspberries at those that have other than helpful things to say hahaha! ). My friend, who referred me to this site and is trying to help me (can't do much until the damn thing is running) will be walking me through and helping me along the way, it's a step by step process. He too suggests changing oil and filters, also an injector cleaner. So thanks to all for the insights and I'm hoping my cries for help on here will lessen over time, but may be more often than I'd like for a bit
Ciao for now!
Contessa

 

First thing you should do is order a ELM 327 OBDll off E Bay for 20 bucks. Then Down load Torque Pro to your android phone. that's 5 bucks. That will be the best 25 dollars you will ever spend on this truck. Next go check out Diesel Tech Rons video (on You Tube)on how to set up the phone for Torque Pro and you have your own little scanner. Then come back and show us the pids and we will help you through this mess. I think you have a few problems,one of which was caused by a battery going out. Also up top there are "stickies" with a ton of information on your truck and all the procedures to keep it running. Just a word ,use all Motorcraft filters and make sure you have a factory oil cap. Aftermarket stuff can cause problems like your experiencing right now.

 

I promise, an oil and fuel filter change is NOT wasted money. Buying a gauge setup is the #3 best thing to spend money on after those two. This is NOT a bad engine, it's just highly dependent on computer sensors for control, meaning a crank-no start presents as the symptom for a laundry list of problems, a lot of which are pretty straightforward fixes.

The battery issue sucks. And it sucks that a used dealer probably did care more about money and a sale than about you. And yes, it's going to cost money to fix the problems. But hey, the bright side is that this isn't just a group of screen names on the internet. The people who post here are real people, many of whom know each other in real life, people who will give you a cell phone number and let you call them at 1am when you're arms deep in an engine and don't know what do next. People who drive across our country and into the next just to meet someone. People who really do spend their free time giving actual, good, peer-reviewed advice for nothing in return. Even when it's not necessarily the best advice, it's honest, and that's something pretty good on it's own terms.

 

Any injector cleaner really is not worth the paper the instructions it's printed on.
Works for gas but not for diesel.

The system in this engine is a HEUI injection system or Hydraulic/Electronic Unit Injector
It used a High pressure oil to drive an electronic activated injector. The oil is
used to pressurize the the fuel with an intensifier piston inside the injector
The oil pressure can reach 4000 PSI (runs less most of the time) the intensifier
piston if I recall correctly is 7:1 so the pressure adds up fast. This in turn is
forced out a nozzle and atomized into the combustion chamber.

There are a bunch of conditions that must be net for the process to start and continue.

I'll post a bunch of stuff for you to be looking for in a few PDFs later tonight.
But the one you want to really look at will be a "Crank No Start" It has the basic
pin point testing and steps. Most of this info can be found in the Tech Folder
at the top of the 6.0L Forum page. and also in the link below my signature in blue.

I post the "Hot No Start" PDF because I have that one ready right now.
It has some basic stuff that even in the case of a "Cold No Start" also
apples in this case.


Not trying to freak you out.
I do have one big concern with the bad batteries in this case and that is the
FICM. Low voltage kills FICMs fast. Your doing the right thing having the batteries FICM(Fuel Injection COntrol Module)
tested. Did you also have the alternator tested? If not and you have the extra
transportation I would also take it out and have them bench test it.
A bad alternator can kill batteries. Bad batteries can also kill the alternator.
Low voltage caand will kill the FICM. Ed at FICMrepair has some good upgrades for the
module nad also a repair service that saves a tone of money over the Ford repair option.

Ed started out here as a 6,0L owner and still is. here is the link to his site.
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
He has some info on testing on the site too.

Right now we need to be able to get live data be it the ELM device and Smart Phone or a Tablet
or the Scanguage 2 also referred to as the SGII and that can be gotten at Autozone for around
$160 or less if you have the discount codes and buy online and pick up in store.
WatsonR has codes for one of the big chain Parts stores and I think you can get the SGII from them too.
I just know that Autozone has them in the store.

OK so this post is getting long and I have given a lot of info to digest.
I'll post more later tonight.

 

You can get the scangauge at advanced auto for 30% off buy it online and pick up in store most stores have them too use code trt30 to get the 30% off. Once you have some data these guys will have you going in no time.

 

Hey Sean, the only thing I have against removing alternators for testing is that diodes can be self healing. I've had alternators test bad with a simple DVM while hot and on the vehicle and when tested in the shop, after cool down, tested good.

 

Very true. But she needs to get it started and it's not that hard
to pull it now being the truck won't start. If it passes a bench test
then after it is running a AC ripple test is very easy to do.


Lets see if I can find my favorite guy for car stuff on Youtube.
EricTheCarGuy does have some good stuff when it comes to the basics

EDIT : I forgot the voltage drop test.

The AC ripple testing. Once you have it running then you can make this
check once it all up to temp. That way it shows heat related problems.

 

I hate to say it guys, I think an injector went South and hydro's the motor.