Are we at a no crank condition now?

 

Nope, she hasn't given anything firm since crank-hard start. We're solidly into the "wild conjecture due to lack of information" stage, waiting to see if she comes back or if we ran her off.

 

If it doesn't turn over with good battery's, stop. Pull the GP's and then try to turn it over. If hydro locked continuing without relieving the pressure will/can cause major damage.

 

I can see this thread is overwhelming for newbie WE ALL WERE NEWBIES AT SOME POINT no shame there

Crash course 6.0

It's tough to be under pressure to make it run and learn it at the same time

If anyone is in the area and willing probably be Huge Help to go scan this truck!

 

boy you guys are great, but give a girl a chance! haha! got the batteries checked finally yesterday; the one the dealer put in was good and took 100% charge, the one they lied about replacing was bad, deeply discharged, would not charge back up. You Tube told me that even though all the date stickers had been removed (gee, wonder why) that the date code is stamped on the battery - I found it - it's a 2012 battery!!! Ordered Motorcraft identical to the good one and will have it today, plan on installing the two batteries back in tonight and crossing fingers I'll crank. I then can take it in for diagnostics, or think about the android apps, etc. It's true, learning and diagnosing / fixing at the same time is difficult! :-) I thought i'd have time to learn the diesel engine before having to fix it! That dealer is a real piece of crap.
Is there anything I need to do after installing batteries but before attempting to crank?
Thanks!
Contessa

 

Have you got a volt meter or a friend that has one? Your going to need to check the output of the alt. Voltage charging should be be from 13.6 to 14.1 ideally. This way you don't loose your FICM, which runs the injectors.

 

The feeding frenzy of help has started. There are some early on in this thread should have their posting abilities curtailed, or at explained they are not helping.

Contessa, with the 6.0 if your planning on keeping it you really need a way of real time monitoring if you are going to ask people for help. Taking into a shop all the time you won't, but this motor is way to complicated to diagnose without knowing various details. And real time monitoring will tell of potentials before they become problems. You REALLY NEED the ability to monitor.

The battery for this truck is a big deal, as a number of people have gotten hyper on its electrical aspects. If you have a voltmeter (had a monitor) checking system voltage and FICM output voltage (monitor) would be a good thing to know after first restart, but other then that theres not much you can do. Observe how it's running, possible smoke out of the tailpipe, and if possible take video of it running, including tailpipe and underhood so the people who can help would have the opportunity to see things in real time. Sometimes it's easy to miss details that you don't know what to listen for in a new situation.

IMO - Used car sales are always an optimistic approach from the seller, but the situation is a flip at low cost. Sometimes the resale folks are completely separate from the new car and service sides, make it pretty to get it off the lot. The one battery only may been an example of that or the stupidity of the used car mechanics of there being two batteries. The dealership is the customer to Ford, you the customer of the dealer. Ford corporate is only there for the consumer as a new car warranty and customer relations entity, but in the used car market they are no where to be found. The principal may be a good guy relying on the used car manager, or part of the problem. I hate the used car industry. The truck may have been OK in running on the lot but an injector going south during the long haul. Your running issues sound like it may be as simple as a weak injector.

You mentioned you taking it in for diagnostics, by who?

 

ok boys - put your thinking caps on! I bought a new battery to replace the 2012 one the dealer left in. I put the newer one he put in on the secondary, and put the brand new one on as primary. Greased up the terminals, reconnected the leads, and crossed my fingers. This video shows what happened. I HOPE THE VIDEO COMES THROUGH. USE QUICKTIME TO VIEW. The radio coming on is after I pulled the key out.

 

There's no "primary" or "secondary" battery, those terms are really only used instead of saying left and right. They aren't isolated from each other and both are fully in the system at all times, which is why you have to replace both at the same time. What did you "grease up" the terminals with?


Next step for me would be to to completely disconnect both batteries, charge them both separately, then load test each of them.

Charger:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumache...arger/46167059

Will work:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumache...&wl13=&veh=sem

Better:


You could also buy a little voltmeter like this one:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ACEHE-Dig...&wl13=&veh=sem

After disconnecting both batteries, set the **** to the blue '*2" on the left hand side of the face, then touch the leads red-to-red and black-to-black on the battery terminals, and post the voltage it reads.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...isconnect.html

 

Just to be clear, the grease generally goes on the terminals after connection... The grease is non-conductive and if you put it on the terminals and then put the cables on it could be causing issues.

The grease is there to prevent air (and hydrogen from battery off-gasing) from interacting with the metals and causing corrosion.

Richard

 

woohoo!!!! went to check grease situation - I had all the terminal connections tight, but apparently one of them was a little crooked and so even though it felt tight it wasn't a good connection - tightened it more and voila!!!!! letting it run a bit, then will take it for drive -

 

Congrats! When there are multiple issues feels good to figure out something doesn't it

Richard

 

1. Can't view the movie, think about uploading to YouTube for universal viewing.

2. If it was one terminal that prevented starting, then you still have issues (again, can't see what's going on in the vid).

 

can you elaborate on why I'd "still have issues" if correcting the terminal connection issue cranked the truck right up? Seems counter-intuitive, but then again - I'm a newby to trucks
Contessa

 

Because we've had trucks with battery cable issues in the past where one battery was not connected and the trucks have started up. You had one failed battery post connection and a no start (?) or issue start I believe.