We still haven't gotten back around to the original low power and shaking concern yet. Based on the battery history, the FICM needs to be tested quickly.

I stand by my most recent post above this, and still think the root issue of this latest no start being mismatched batteries; first a very old (2012) one and a new one for a time period, and now that newer one that has had a load put on it paired with a brand new one. If the incorrectly connected battery was the new one, based on the obvious low-voltage/low-current issues (Jack - please don't yell at me for incorrect electrical terminology if you ever see it ) in the video then the old battery has a problem. Or there's a deeper electrical issue to diagnose.

There's too many electrical problems that risk $400-1000+ repair cost events on not having a pair of correctly tested batteries.

 

once terminals properly tightened it's been doing great. going in this morning to have electrical checked. taking tomorrow morning to have various possible causes of shaking checked (wheel balance, alignment, drive shaft, ball joints, etc.). bought Archoil gas and oil additive combination to attempt to clean out system. Baby steps :-)

 

How many miles have you drove it since the new batteries?

How fast were you going when it was shaking originally?

Have you changed the engine oil/fuel filters yet?

Definitely look into a way to monitor engine info...

 

Only about 25 miles since newest battery. Drove about 22-30 miles per day for 3.5 weeks with what turned out a pretty new battery and a 2012 battery after bringing home before it died. Shaking starts at about 40, calms down after 50. Haven't changed the filters yet. Had shaking checked out today - had all six wheels balanced - apparently dealer didn't bother after putting on new tires. Had other things dealer said he did checked - brakes and alignment look good. However, spare is original so need new one of those. Shaking is somewhat improved, but I think I need to look at injectors next - still some vibration and sluggishness when accelerating uphill. Have Archoil oil and gas treatment additives, but will look at FICM. Electrical getting checked out in the morning (had to reset). Will see if they will do code check and maybe check FICM and filters while there - will get a reader setup when I can. One step at a time . I have this damn thing called a JOB that gets in the way of having fun and/or dealing with small catastrophies, but yet doesn't always cover all of life's expenses - so unfair.

Contessa

 

Your best investment is the OBDll dongle so you can set up Torque Pro or Forscan which ever you prefer. For 25 bucks it will be the best money you ever spend on this truck.

 

without that 3 letter word no one would have the 5 letter word that makes the world go round MONEY! LOL

I am still skeptical that the batteries sure fixed your issue but i sure hope that was it!!!!

Any shop should be able to scan your truck and give you a print out of all the live data. I looked at a truck once and the FICM voltage was perfect at idle but revved it to 2500 RPM and it dropped to 22 or so volts....truck ran and drove perfect though.....

Did that shop check u joints as well? Did they try road force balancing?

I can tell you from experience on my own truck I always had a vibration at 60-63MPH and it drove me NUTS! No matter how many times I rebalanced the tires it wouldn't go away even with another set of wheels and tires on the truck still there-after 8 new injectors(another story in itself) the vibration finally went away.

If the dealer can't show proof I would definitely change the oil, fuel filters, and make sure you use OEM filters. They might be a bit pricey but are worth every penny. Personally I haven't used the archoil but I have used the REV-X and noticed results instantly.

One last thing I would do is post up in your local chapter and see if someone has a scanner who will check it out for you.....maybe throw them a 6 pack and make a new friend. Many people are willing to help.

Good luck!