Well dangit...Oil Change and a Miss
#1
Well dangit...Oil Change and a Miss
So, I changed my oil today and two things happened. Before I go into that...I bought some oil from a local ranch store that was being discontinued. It's called "Lube King" and its a farm fleet 15w-40 HD oil. It was $13 for a 2 gallon jug that was being discontinued. I figured since it's CJ-4, how could I go wrong? So that part is out of the way....
I decided to pull my fuse panel while the oil drained so I could finally install my TS **** in an exsiting hole where the EB switch was placed. In the process, I managed to pull the chip out on accident. I am not even sure what it hung up on, but there it was hanging down. I kinda panciked, disconnected my batteries, and installed the ****, as well as the chip, back into the PCM.
Fast forward to starting the truck...everything seemed normal, got the WTS light, etc...and truck fired right up. I immediately noticed a slightly different cadence or sound to the idle. It's slightly missing...and I am just floored and pissed. I definitely noticed it when I stopped to get fuel and thought it was because I ran the fuel too low. Nope, problem still persists. It's idling like it did with the GH issue. I pulled the chip...same thing...running kinda crappy. has plenty of power and boost, but idling weird and shaky.
The only other time this happened is with my '97 OBS when I veered from its steady diet of Rotella. It idled rough and weird form the start. I changed back to Rotella and problem solved. It was back to sounding like it should. I am REALLY wondering if that is the issue here. Maybe it's just a matter of sub par oil. It's happened before and our HEUI systems are finicky at times.
I guess my three questions are....
1) Change back to Rotella?
2) Could the chip having been pulled harmed the PCM?
3) Has this happened to anyone else after switching to a cheaper oil?
I know, kind of all over the place. Thanks for any input!
I decided to pull my fuse panel while the oil drained so I could finally install my TS **** in an exsiting hole where the EB switch was placed. In the process, I managed to pull the chip out on accident. I am not even sure what it hung up on, but there it was hanging down. I kinda panciked, disconnected my batteries, and installed the ****, as well as the chip, back into the PCM.
Fast forward to starting the truck...everything seemed normal, got the WTS light, etc...and truck fired right up. I immediately noticed a slightly different cadence or sound to the idle. It's slightly missing...and I am just floored and pissed. I definitely noticed it when I stopped to get fuel and thought it was because I ran the fuel too low. Nope, problem still persists. It's idling like it did with the GH issue. I pulled the chip...same thing...running kinda crappy. has plenty of power and boost, but idling weird and shaky.
The only other time this happened is with my '97 OBS when I veered from its steady diet of Rotella. It idled rough and weird form the start. I changed back to Rotella and problem solved. It was back to sounding like it should. I am REALLY wondering if that is the issue here. Maybe it's just a matter of sub par oil. It's happened before and our HEUI systems are finicky at times.
I guess my three questions are....
1) Change back to Rotella?
2) Could the chip having been pulled harmed the PCM?
3) Has this happened to anyone else after switching to a cheaper oil?
I know, kind of all over the place. Thanks for any input!
#2
All I have to add is that my truck ran crappy on the 10-30w gasser oil the chebby dealer I bought the truck from has put in. Response from their "mechanic" was, "oil is oil." Switching it soon after to the 5w-40 I've been running for the last 25,000 miles made a fair bit of difference.
Other than that I have no idea. But I'm subscribing!
Other than that I have no idea. But I'm subscribing!
#4
Oops. Disregard the PM as I assumed the pickup was running when the chip was disconnected.
I install and remove chips more than any person alive (presumably). There is no danger at all of installing/removing the chip with the batteries disconnected or even with the keys in the ignition lock cylinder. However, if the key is in the run position with the engine running or not, you just bought a PCM and a chip (unless you are extremely lucky).
The tuning on the chip is not going to change from a disconnect/removal/install.
I install and remove chips more than any person alive (presumably). There is no danger at all of installing/removing the chip with the batteries disconnected or even with the keys in the ignition lock cylinder. However, if the key is in the run position with the engine running or not, you just bought a PCM and a chip (unless you are extremely lucky).
The tuning on the chip is not going to change from a disconnect/removal/install.
#5
Thanks guys. Crisis averted. I just bought an expensive oil change. I dumped that oil and put Rotella back in with a new filter. I know the oil doesn't make a difference in most vehicles, but I swear the truck is back to normal and idling smooth as silk. I even did a hard run to make sure there wasn't a hot idle issue. Nope, all seems to be good. Ah well....engine flush I guess. Sorry for taking everybody for a ride.
#7
It may have been alright had I used it all along or if it was going in another diesel application (think Cummins or Duramax or Farmall) but not us. Dance with the one who bring ya Lesson learned....again
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#8
Good read. I've always been rather finicky on my oil selection, if only because you never really know what kind of additive package a low-priced oil may be using. Sort of the same thing with cheap gas.
But for $26, your engine flush is probably worth it. There are probably far too many threads on here discussing the pros and cons of draining the HPOP reservoir during oils changes, well you just accomplished that, including the HPOP, all oil lines & galleries, injectors, everything.
But for $26, your engine flush is probably worth it. There are probably far too many threads on here discussing the pros and cons of draining the HPOP reservoir during oils changes, well you just accomplished that, including the HPOP, all oil lines & galleries, injectors, everything.
#10
It does, but that doesn't bother me any more than the CJ-4 did when it hit the shelves. Everyone thought that was a bad oil, but it proved to be nothing to worry about. I don't think any of the big oils have CJ-4 any longer. I am only seeing it in these rural farm fleet oils (JD, Travelers, Rural King). I am sure they are good oils IF I had been using it from the beginning. Who knows? I am just WAGing at this point.
#11
Did a little research on Lube King 15w-40 Diesel oil. Could not find the HD designation though. Anyway it is specified for 2007 diesel engines or later, due to the newer emission standards and advanced sensors.
From the spec sheet ...
"Lube King's SAE 15W-40 all fleet diesel engine oil is designed for engines built in 2007 or later that require an oil rated API CJ-4 or CI-4 Plus. It has exceptional resistance to thermal degradation, and it keeps soot suspended in the oil instead of in your engine components."
Probably not a good thing when using a high pressure oil pump, doesn't play nice.
From the spec sheet ...
"Lube King's SAE 15W-40 all fleet diesel engine oil is designed for engines built in 2007 or later that require an oil rated API CJ-4 or CI-4 Plus. It has exceptional resistance to thermal degradation, and it keeps soot suspended in the oil instead of in your engine components."
Probably not a good thing when using a high pressure oil pump, doesn't play nice.
#12
#13
Did a little research on Lube King 15w-40 Diesel oil. Could not find the HD designation though. Anyway it is specified for 2007 diesel engines or later, due to the newer emission standards and advanced sensors.
From the spec sheet ...
"Lube King's SAE 15W-40 all fleet diesel engine oil is designed for engines built in 2007 or later that require an oil rated API CJ-4 or CI-4 Plus. It has exceptional resistance to thermal degradation, and it keeps soot suspended in the oil instead of in your engine components."
Probably not a good thing when using a high pressure oil pump, doesn't play nice.
From the spec sheet ...
"Lube King's SAE 15W-40 all fleet diesel engine oil is designed for engines built in 2007 or later that require an oil rated API CJ-4 or CI-4 Plus. It has exceptional resistance to thermal degradation, and it keeps soot suspended in the oil instead of in your engine components."
Probably not a good thing when using a high pressure oil pump, doesn't play nice.
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