Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.

I thought i'd fixed the problem over Thanksgiving last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.

I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen.

I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.

First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down?

Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs help?

Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.

Any help yall' can offer in figuring this thing out would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?>

 

When it stalls, does anything else happen? Dash go dark? CEL?

 

Tell us about your CPS.

 

And keep it safe for work/PG13!

 

No CEL, no codes, it happens so fast I honestly haven't noticed if the dash goes dark or not. Or even what the gauges do. I'll keep an eye out though, seems to be back with a vengeance.

No idea, I bought a spare a while back that's been sitting in the glove box. I think it's blue with a purple oring. Recently read that it might not be the right one. I've never looked to see what it actually has.

This one went right over my head! So I hoped on Urban dictionary to try and figure it out. Now I can't figure out in which way your mind is dirty!?. Too many options.

 

My brain is a scary place...


I am curious about other symptoms because I have had a similar experience. When my engine cut out, the whole truck would go dark. No electrical power to anything at all, not even the trailer brakes (which was fun). It took a while to catch because in the beginning the engine would re-light almost instantly, and I didn't have time to make observations. I too didn't get any codes or a CEL.

 

 

That little ball of electrical tape in the video is where a small junction box used to be before calcium-chloride-happy PenDOT ate it. All your truck's electrical power passes through that little box. And Ford mounted it on the fenderwell under the air box with a bolt that passes through to the elements and whatever crud your tire can throw at it.

 

Well I hobbled out to the garage crawled up on a stool and stuck my arm in the engine as far as I could get it. CPS is grey. But I can't tell if it's OEM. So a picture is worth 1000 words.

 

Look for a place in the logged data where the RPM drops instantly to zero and shoots back up. If that's there, replace the CMP sensor with the purple one. If you don't want to sift through the logged data, download ForScan and install it on a WinD'ohs laptop. Monitor RPM in oscilloscope mode and when it stumbles again, look at the screen and see if the RPM dropout is there.

 

Any body know for sure if this little piggy will work? When I first looked into it I'd read that this one was better. Now I've read it might not work?

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I'd be more than happy to throw it in if a) I knew it was going to work. b) knew that the grey one wasn't OEM / was bad.

 

Thanks Pikachu. Didn't see your post before I tossed up the last one.

 

I don't remember which color sensor is the "better" one, but that one will work. Hell, I still have an OEM black one in my truck. I must be lucky

 

I hooked up the windows Forscan to the truck this morning. A little bit of an adventure because windows didn't have the bluetooth hardware enabled on my laptop. But that part is figured out now.

Anywho I got some oscilloscope time in on idle and driving this morning running to the store to get milk. It looks really bouncy to me. I suspect it's just a hall effect sensor sending pulses to the PCM, but I would have thought the PCM would do a better job of dampening. Or maybe this is the hallmark of a failing sensor. Since I have a new one and nothing better to do today. I'll throw the new one in and see if it make a prettier graph.

In the meantime, here are some screen shots of the current sensor.



Semi Warm Idle for a couple seconds





short drive to the store


If one of yall' gets a chance to see this before I swap sensors, let me know what you think. Better or not I'll post up screenshots of the new sensor too.

Thanks,
Joe

 

Swapped the CPS sensors, no change in the beauty of the graph. Took it for a test drive. No change in truck behavior. Truck still stalls. However I did catch it on the forscan oscilloscope RPM doesn't drop to 0 instead it goes to engine idle. Picture is worth 1000 words.


New Grey CPS.


The "stall," maybe this isn't the correct word for it anymore. Occurs from about 202.5 to 202.5, this is the longest I've ever gotten it to stall. The truck stalled several more times on this drive, I however accidentally deleted those logs.

The new revelation from this drive is that once the truck "stalls" it seems to stay stalled until I let off the throttle and push it down again.

Where do I go to now?