Up Pipe Replacement Questions
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Seattle
Up Pipe Replacement Questions
I've got an E99 7.3L and I am in the process of replacing stock up pipes with the Riffraff bellowed up pipes. I've (finally) got the old up pipes and collector out of the truck. Now that those are out, I realize I've got questions:
1. Is there anything I need to do to the mating surface on the exhaust manifold before installing the new pipes?
2. I did not remove the turbo pedestal during the up pipe removal. I also did not remove the lower/firewall side bolt that went into the passenger side of the collector and I'm not sure how I'm going to screw it in (or get a torque wrench on it) during the installation of the new up pipes. Anybody have any guidance on that topic?
I should also mention that there is a 4" exhaust pipe that does a nice job of blocking any view to the collector area from below.
Thanks,
Greg
1. Is there anything I need to do to the mating surface on the exhaust manifold before installing the new pipes?
2. I did not remove the turbo pedestal during the up pipe removal. I also did not remove the lower/firewall side bolt that went into the passenger side of the collector and I'm not sure how I'm going to screw it in (or get a torque wrench on it) during the installation of the new up pipes. Anybody have any guidance on that topic?
I should also mention that there is a 4" exhaust pipe that does a nice job of blocking any view to the collector area from below.
Thanks,
Greg
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
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From: North of Greenville
I moved my downpipe out of the way for my install.
On the mating surfaces, scrape them carefully and sand them with 400 grit wet/dry paper, then spray them down with Brakleen before connecting the new pipes. Just make sure the surfaces are smooth and clean.
I had my turbo and pedestal already out because I was going back with a new non-EBPV pedestal.
On the mating surfaces, scrape them carefully and sand them with 400 grit wet/dry paper, then spray them down with Brakleen before connecting the new pipes. Just make sure the surfaces are smooth and clean.
I had my turbo and pedestal already out because I was going back with a new non-EBPV pedestal.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Here's where I did 2002 Uppipes, bunch of pics and some tips 
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15730880
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15730880
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I have 4" down pipe and did the job with it in so it can be done. Instructions come with the up pipes so read them and you will be good to go. They make the job sound easy though, it's a real bear. The passenger's side up pipes get torqued to the collector before installation. I have heard that both sides could be torqued if down pipe is out of the way but I didn't do it so I can't say for sure. Never Seize is recommended on the bolts and I used it. Don't tighten the bolts a the manifold until you have the collector connected to the turbo. And made sure that your clamps on the turbo point the right direction or you'll be looking at the 'T' instead of the nut when you go to tighten them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 22
From: Springfield, PA
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
Likes: 5
From: Seattle
Thanks for the quick responses. I'll study up tonight and see if I can get these buggers in tomorrow.
ExPACamper: I also tried to remove the turbo not realizing the EBVP rod was connected underneath. Did you have any leak issues after that? I'm a little concerned since it seems like that area is a known problem spot and I was pulling kind of hard on the turbo with it attached.
ExPACamper: I also tried to remove the turbo not realizing the EBVP rod was connected underneath. Did you have any leak issues after that? I'm a little concerned since it seems like that area is a known problem spot and I was pulling kind of hard on the turbo with it attached.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 9,399
Likes: 188
From: Norco,CA
I think if you get that 4" down pipe out of the way it will be easy. Torq the top four bolt and leave the bottom bolts loose. Get the back buttoned up to the turbo then tighten the bottom bolts to the exhaust. Good luck. I played with mine then ordered new 4" exhaust and got all that out of the way. I also updated everything to late model.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
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From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
ExPACamper: I also tried to remove the turbo not realizing the EBVP rod was connected underneath. Did you have any leak issues after that? I'm a little concerned since it seems like that area is a known problem spot and I was pulling kind of hard on the turbo with it attached.
I've ordered a repair kit (just over $100) for my upcoming repairs THIS WEEK.
Here's that thread, if you want to follow along. I am planning a lot of pics, including the EBPV: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17176055
When you remove the clip for the wastegate arm, PUSH it to release the rod, DO NOT PULL IT OFF, or it is a real bugger to get back on
My thread with the uppipes has lots of lessons learned from my side, things I hadn't considered before the job. A couple of long extensions and knuckles and good impact wrenches helped me a lot, too.
You'll get it, just be patient as you work
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 88
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From: Seattle
Well, I'm slowly getting there. Collector is installed with up-pipes loosely bolted to the manifolds. Time to re-install the turbo next.
One more question: What is the torque specification for the exhaust manifold to up-pipe nuts and bolts? I see that folks use 21 ft-lb for the up-pipes to collector connection, but I haven't seen anything mentioned for the manifold end.
Thanks.
One more question: What is the torque specification for the exhaust manifold to up-pipe nuts and bolts? I see that folks use 21 ft-lb for the up-pipes to collector connection, but I haven't seen anything mentioned for the manifold end.
Thanks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,614
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From: Springfield, PA
If you looked at my thread, you can probably tell that I didn't torque them to any value, but until I got the pipes tight against the manifold. But that was the last step. I did it after installing the turbo. I believe the manifold bolts were the last ones I tightened, as my up-pipes had to be stretched a touch to seat on the manifolds. And there was no way I was gonna get torque in there anyway.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Seattle
Just wanted to follow up an thank you guys for the input.
Things went pretty smoothly on the install phase other than 1) taking forever to get the collector-to-turbo flange clamp aligned and tightened and 2) a slight misalignment between the driver side manifold and the up-pipe mating surface (I'm suspicious that the manifold mating surface was not perfect)
I've got to tow a boat over the mountains this weekend and should have the engine under a good load for significant periods of time. If any problems are present, I think they will make themselves known then.
Greg
Things went pretty smoothly on the install phase other than 1) taking forever to get the collector-to-turbo flange clamp aligned and tightened and 2) a slight misalignment between the driver side manifold and the up-pipe mating surface (I'm suspicious that the manifold mating surface was not perfect)
I've got to tow a boat over the mountains this weekend and should have the engine under a good load for significant periods of time. If any problems are present, I think they will make themselves known then.
Greg
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