Up pipe to manifold
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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Up pipe to manifold
Hey guys Im trying to fix an exhaust leak at this connection. The flange on the manifold was corroded to got a replacement. I still cant get the joint to fully seal. Ive removed the bolts at the top of the up pipe and Im tightening the bottom connection first.
Is there a method to this?
Im letting the truck get nice and hot now and I'll try again. Any tips?
Is there a method to this?
Im letting the truck get nice and hot now and I'll try again. Any tips?
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,337
Likes: 346
From: Breckenridge, TX
I've always been able to pull the joint tight working from the top down, meaning seat the band clamp on the turbo, then do the manifold connections. Are you using a half-moon wrench on the top bolt or jamming a wrench to where you can get a torque wrench on the nut to make sure you're hitting 20 lb-ft without the top one moving on you? If the top seal isn't the best, loosen the turbo on the pedestal and reset both band clamps, THEN tighten down to the pedestal, that might get you better aligned.
A last ditch kind of solution is to use a gasket:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9786647
A last ditch kind of solution is to use a gasket:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9786647
2006 Bullet-Riddled 6.0
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 651
Likes: 5
From: Sac River Delta Ca.
The statement made by TexasTech about a loose turbo is the ticket. That way the turbo and up-pipe can be pulled tightly together without anything binding and not making a tight seal there. Then start tightening up pipe top down. Manifolds last of course.
The down pipe shouldn't matter, I tightened down my turbo after up-pipes were connected and did my 4" down pipe that has another 1/2" at least of DEI Header Wrap on top of it and it went right up to turbo and sealed like it should.
Good Luck, I will admit having long arms is a big plus because those up-pipes are a mother f'er to replace in the truck. I hope your over 6-0 because its going to help.
The down pipe shouldn't matter, I tightened down my turbo after up-pipes were connected and did my 4" down pipe that has another 1/2" at least of DEI Header Wrap on top of it and it went right up to turbo and sealed like it should.
Good Luck, I will admit having long arms is a big plus because those up-pipes are a mother f'er to replace in the truck. I hope your over 6-0 because its going to help.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
As stated, loosen turbo mounting bolts to pedestal, loosen manifold to y pipe bolts, line up y pipe to turbo flange and tighten clamp, tighten clamp on down pipe then tighten manifold to y pipe and turbo mounting bolts last.
Your y pipe needs to fit flat on the turbo without pulling BEFORE you clamp it. If you try to use the v band clamp to close the gap it will never seal. I just went through this.
Your y pipe needs to fit flat on the turbo without pulling BEFORE you clamp it. If you try to use the v band clamp to close the gap it will never seal. I just went through this.
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Posting Guru
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Thanks for the help guys!
I'll give it another go these evening.
The connection at the up pipe to y pipe is good. Can I just loosen the pedestal and then tighten up the mainfold to up pipe connection?
Do the mainifold to block bolts need to be loose first?
I'll give it another go these evening.
The connection at the up pipe to y pipe is good. Can I just loosen the pedestal and then tighten up the mainfold to up pipe connection?
Do the mainifold to block bolts need to be loose first?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
I never touch the pedestal bolts, you can’t reach them with the turbo in. Just leave the turbo to pedestal bolts loose and tighten them last. Don’t loosen the manifold to block bolts or thr up pipe to y pipe bolts. Loosen the exhaust manifold bolts to y pipe and up pipe.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
I never touch the pedestal bolts, you can’t reach them with the turbo in. Just leave the turbo to pedestal bolts loose and tighten them last. Don’t loosen the manifold to block bolts or the up pipe to y pipe bolts. Loosen the exhaust manifold bolts to y pipe and up pipe.
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2006 Bullet-Riddled 6.0
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 651
Likes: 5
From: Sac River Delta Ca.
Tighten down turbo to stand and install down pipe. Best to have a way to keep it smushed into the turbo outlet while tightening clamp.
Hope that helps you
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2006 Bullet-Riddled 6.0
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 651
Likes: 5
From: Sac River Delta Ca.
One note of caution: when I installed a new KC turbo I also installed a 1" thick sound deadener to my entire firewall. I drilled through the MLV and firewall in a dozen locations for riveting to truck. I couldn't find one of my snapped off 3/16 x 3" rivet stems no matter what. Got out camera on a cable and started looking into my exhaust manifolds and sure enough it was on drivers side. That would have surely found the turbo and surely destroyed it easily. So if you have open manifolds either seal them or be 1000% sure you have every item accounted for.
I had the what could that nail hurt thought until I saw the open manifolds. Of coarse Murphys Law always applies and double guess yourself always.
Just figured if this saves anyone from what almost happened to me its worth the post.
I had the what could that nail hurt thought until I saw the open manifolds. Of coarse Murphys Law always applies and double guess yourself always.
Just figured if this saves anyone from what almost happened to me its worth the post.
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