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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

NiCopp IP lines?

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Old May 8, 2017 | 09:32 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by rowdyredneck
I'll echo what others have said regarding the flare. Dave is correct, the flares are ball shaped on both ends of the lines and I'm not aware of anyone who makes a tool to flare these. The line between the filter housing and IP does not use a standard flare either. The ends of the line are bell shaped and they use a rubber sleeve that fits between the line and the nut to seal the connection. I doubt you'd be able to replicate it with a standard flaring tool unless you changed the fittings on both ends to standard flare type. But I don't really see any gain in going to all this trouble. I've never seen those lines corrode in normal use. Nicop lines are not impervious to corrosion either. Copper turns green when it corrodes and I've encountered plenty of green Nicop lines after several years in service. Granted they won't rust through and leak like a standard steel line will but they won't keep that tan color forever either and will eventually turn green.
the main reason I was concerned about corrosion is because I live near Salt Lake, AND this truck spent much of its life as a rescue truck on the Salt Flats. The lines look pretty good right now, and the engine is one of the best-running factory-installed 80's engines I've personally ever seen. The only line I'm super concerned about is the filter to IP line. in its day, the owner at the salt flats added a fuel pressure gauge by adding a t-fitting between the filter and the IP line fitting. I've since removed the non-functioning guage and capped the extra outlet of the t-fitting, but I'm kinda worried about shifting the steel line back to its original position without the T. I have no idea how brittle the line is, or if I risk causing a weak point by moving the fitting to the filter forward again...
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 07:43 AM
  #17  
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These lines rusting out is not a problem I've ever heard of. Just sand them to bare metal and paint. Unfortunately you'll most likely have to sand one spot to metal to get your timing adapter to pick up the pulse. Paint flexes enough to dampen it and give unreliable readings.

You can get fittings to convert the filter to IP line to braided with AN fittings. beware I believe teh threads in the IP are not a common thread so don't force anything. I believe both R&D IDI Performance and Conestoga Diesel sell the fittings.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 09:22 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Nickel copper lines are rated for something like 3,000 psi.
I can't see it being an issue.

I'm not sure why you'd think length would be an issue.
​​​​​​​Can you explain?
​​​​​​​the 7.3idi is an issue for sure I really couldn't tell u why but I heard about it and thought it sounded like bs until I ran my own and had to redo ALL 8
 
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 08:27 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jporter09
​​​​​​​the 7.3idi is an issue for sure I really couldn't tell u why but I heard about it and thought it sounded like bs until I ran my own and had to redo ALL 8
You made your own injection lines for a 7.3 idi? How did you make that special flare on the end of the line?
 
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