NiCopp IP lines?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Salt Lake City
NiCopp IP lines?
I have a 6.9L diesel, and recently I've been looking at NiCopp lines for pretty much all my hardline needs, and I got to wondering. What about the hardlines to and from the IP? I figure the line to the IP from the filter could easily use NiCopp, since its nowhere near the pressure the injectors use, but what about the injector lines? can they be NiCopp lines? and if so, is the length of the line a critical thing? 
The reasons I would like to use NiCopp as my injector lines comes down to 2 things: 1) I'm making this into more of a military theme, right down to the desert tan color, and the copper color of NiCopp would look right at home with a tan engine
; and 2) I live in an area well known for its salt. Steel lines just seem like they are asking for corrosion, and NiCopp lines claim they are almost impossible to corrode. Using NiCopp lines, and installing them once, seems like a good thing.
So, what do you guys think? will NiCopp lines work for injector lines?
The reasons I would like to use NiCopp as my injector lines comes down to 2 things: 1) I'm making this into more of a military theme, right down to the desert tan color, and the copper color of NiCopp would look right at home with a tan engine
; and 2) I live in an area well known for its salt. Steel lines just seem like they are asking for corrosion, and NiCopp lines claim they are almost impossible to corrode. Using NiCopp lines, and installing them once, seems like a good thing.So, what do you guys think? will NiCopp lines work for injector lines?
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Cross-Country
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From: Salt Lake City
I read on another forum when I was trying to research this (it was a cummins forum) that the length can affect the timing of the IP, and that the IP on a cummins p-pump puts out way too much pressure for the NiCopp lines. thats why I decided to ask here and find out what, if any of it, held true for the 6.9.
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From: Salt Lake City
I haven't tore my IP lines off, since I really don't want to bleed the system until ALL the lines are replaced, but they look like they use fairly standard flare ends and flare nuts. maybe double flares. the nuts are a little longer than standard, so I could easily be mistaken. but thats how they look to me. If I'm wrong, someone please let me know.
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From: Salt Lake City
which means that as far as pressures go, the NiCopp will work. 
now I just need to find out if the lines use special ford-only connections.
now I just need to find out if the lines use special ford-only connections.
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From: Virginia
I can verify, you are wrong on the flare. Also, you do not need to bleed the lines on this engine, they bleed themselves. The small rubber lines going from injector to injector are return lines, they intentionally have a controlled leak in each injector that keeps it cool and lubricates it. Because of this leak, any air in the line will work it's way out, you do not have to loosen the line like you do on other diesel engines.
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pedant
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
I read on another forum when I was trying to research this (it was a cummins forum) that the length can affect the timing of the IP, and that the IP on a cummins p-pump puts out way too much pressure for the NiCopp lines. thats why I decided to ask here and find out what, if any of it, held true for the 6.9.
But I also don't see how length will affect timing.
Hydraulic pressure is immediate and as long as the line is sized for flow I can't see an issue there.
Dave knows a lot more about these diesels than I do, so I'm going to shut up now...
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From: Salt Lake City
I will preface this by saying I don't own a 6.9
But I also don't see how length will affect timing.
Hydraulic pressure is immediate and as long as the line is sized for flow I can't see an issue there.
Dave knows a lot more about these diesels than I do, so I'm going to shut up now...
But I also don't see how length will affect timing.
Hydraulic pressure is immediate and as long as the line is sized for flow I can't see an issue there.
Dave knows a lot more about these diesels than I do, so I'm going to shut up now...
my experience with working on diesels is fairly (meaning entirely) non-existant.
I just drive them, and most of the diesels I have driven are the 15L Detroits and Cummins and Cats. All Direct Inject, and all in an 18-wheeler. this is my first IDI, and I plan on turboing it and keeping this IDI going for hopefully a million miles.
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From: Salt Lake City
do you happen to know what the flare is called? I want to research it and see if the tool is even available, and if not, how much a shop would cost to make the required flares.
Well, That's going to make redoing all my butchered, quick-n-dirty lines a heck of a lot easier to do! 
(no, I'm not responsible for the butchery that is my fuel and electrical systems. the salt flats are. )
Also, you do not need to bleed the lines on this engine, they bleed themselves. The small rubber lines going from injector to injector are return lines, they intentionally have a controlled leak in each injector that keeps it cool and lubricates it. Because of this leak, any air in the line will work it's way out, you do not have to loosen the line like you do on other diesel engines.
(no, I'm not responsible for the butchery that is my fuel and electrical systems. the salt flats are. )
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From: NJ
I'd be leery of using tubing that may flex under pressure, it's common enough to shim injectors to pop higher, up to 2200 psi. Still below the rating of the line, so in theory the line would work. What are you trying to solve? You can buy individual hard lines for $50 if you have a damaged line. Complete sets can be had used for around $200 with clamps.
line length was important enough that Ford and/or International kept the lines all equal length and made different #1 and #4 lines to accommodate the position of the factory timing pickup position on trucks or vans. Keep the lines identical length.
Also, good luck on the unique flare. Beyond that, be sure to use clamps on the lines or they will crack.
line length was important enough that Ford and/or International kept the lines all equal length and made different #1 and #4 lines to accommodate the position of the factory timing pickup position on trucks or vans. Keep the lines identical length.
Also, good luck on the unique flare. Beyond that, be sure to use clamps on the lines or they will crack.
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From: Virginia
Don't know what that flare is called, if I remember it's more like a ball on the end of the line. Very strange looking.
Most everyone says the line length is important on these injection lines, and I don't understand it either but I have to believe it. All I know is I had a line crack while I was 1500 miles from home, and the only line I could find was one for a 6.9, it was #1 with the probe extension. I had to rebend the line to get it to fit, it was a little off, but I was desperate to get it running on 8 cylinders again. Once I got the line hooked up the engine ran fine on that little bit shorter line.
I will repeat what was said before; Make sure all your line clamps are in place, the lines will crack if they are not.
If I were you I would check all your lines and the clamps, and if everything is in good shape, I would leave it alone. These are very reliable engines, I would not mess with success.
Most everyone says the line length is important on these injection lines, and I don't understand it either but I have to believe it. All I know is I had a line crack while I was 1500 miles from home, and the only line I could find was one for a 6.9, it was #1 with the probe extension. I had to rebend the line to get it to fit, it was a little off, but I was desperate to get it running on 8 cylinders again. Once I got the line hooked up the engine ran fine on that little bit shorter line.
I will repeat what was said before; Make sure all your line clamps are in place, the lines will crack if they are not.
If I were you I would check all your lines and the clamps, and if everything is in good shape, I would leave it alone. These are very reliable engines, I would not mess with success.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
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I'll echo what others have said regarding the flare. Dave is correct, the flares are ball shaped on both ends of the lines and I'm not aware of anyone who makes a tool to flare these. The line between the filter housing and IP does not use a standard flare either. The ends of the line are bell shaped and they use a rubber sleeve that fits between the line and the nut to seal the connection. I doubt you'd be able to replicate it with a standard flaring tool unless you changed the fittings on both ends to standard flare type. But I don't really see any gain in going to all this trouble. I've never seen those lines corrode in normal use. Nicop lines are not impervious to corrosion either. Copper turns green when it corrodes and I've encountered plenty of green Nicop lines after several years in service. Granted they won't rust through and leak like a standard steel line will but they won't keep that tan color forever either and will eventually turn green.
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From: Salt Lake City
so I'm not really trying to "fix" anything with this idea. Its mainly an idea of replacing steel lines with significantly more corrosion-resistant lines, which will also look good with how I am planning on building out the engine.
Based on how you're describing the ends, that may have just killed this idea entirely.
Based on how you're describing the ends, that may have just killed this idea entirely.