Hello All:

Just wondering if some of the issues I am seeing with my 6.0L are related, or just individual problems that need to be eventually addressed.

I have a 2003 F-350, with a March 2003 build date. I have the Scanguage II and monitor temps. I use normally use sysnthetic oil, with the Archoil additive. Oil is analyzed every other change for any signs of coolant, or other problems. So far, no issues. 145,000 miles. Everything is stock. I have been aggressive on oil change intervals, coolant flushing, and fuel-filter service.

When I'm running unloaded, my deltas are in the 7-11 degree range. For instance, today I noted 177/188, 184/189, 181/193 at different times, cruising from 45-75 mph. Ambient 60 degrees. At idle, when starting, temps vary by 1-2 degrees. I was towing a 9,000# trailer this weekend, and saw 14-15 degree deltas @ 45 degrees ambient.

I do have hard-start issues. The truck needs to be plugged in to start without a fight. Used to be only in the coldest weather, but now it's most of the time. I'm running dino now, with no Archoil, as the oil pan needed to be replaced. I wanted to make sure that issue was resolved before going back to the synthetic.

The truck is going in to have the glow-plug system and injectors checked. If I need to have significant work done, I am thinking about doing the flush program, and just doing the oil cooler at the same time- if you think the pattern above is developing into a problem.

I'm not in a position of replacing this truck, and I am willing to put work and money into it to keep it running well. It's not a daily driver (other than hunting seasons). It's a tow vehicle for (2) horse trailers, and an RV camper. So, if it's running, it's working. If it's working, it needs to be reliable.

Just curious what you all think. I'm trying to put a plan together to address any potential issues. I'm pretty comfortable doing suspension, brakes, and some add-ons... Just leery of digging into the motor. But, it's not out of the question, if I can get my head wrapped around the issues. Thank you for any thoughts, I really enjoy reading the responses to the questions. Amazing knowledge base here. Thank you,

Don

 

Could very well be glow plugs, have the codes read to confirm. It's an easy job to do, save some money and DIY.
Replace both plugs and harness.

15° separation is approaching the limit and oil cooler replacement is in your future, sooner than later is a good plan... OEM only.

 

If ECT isn't getting to 190*f you need a new t-stat, so don't sweat the ECT/EOT difference until you get that changed. The Mishimoto 200*f stat is very popular, I changed mine up and the truck runs better in the winter and the heater works better. No change in how it drives in the summer, I pulled a very boxy trailer into a sustained 30+mph headwind and ran at 210/216 going flat out.

Hard start: if plugging in makes that big a difference especially now that it's not super cold all the time, I'd check the FICM out. You ScanGuage can do all three voltages, so make sure it's getting fed correctly and running at 48V. I would strongly suspect the FICM even without hearing your voltages just based on you having to replace the oil pan. After 14 years, there's a very good chance your wiring is starting to get corroded and your grounds likely aren't very good or might even be rusting on the frame, so the cables in the starting/charging system might just need a good once over with some steel wool to get everything back to how it originally was.

FICM issues almost always stem from electrical issues, which means check the batteries, the alternator, and your wiring. Jack did a great video on the electrical system here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tery-life.html

 

Truck was in for service recently- no codes reported. Batteries are less than 2 years old (which doesn't mean much) but I've had no issues with them. Alternator replaced a few years back, too.

FICM main power is monitored on the main screen with ECT/EOT, and shows 48.5 under most environments. I will check to see what other FICM readings it offers... What should I be looking at, and what ranges identify a problem?

The thermostat issue is a new one on me. I'll do a forum search... Thanks for the tips!

Don

 

You need to watch FICM voltage while cranking and when it's doing the rough start thing. They have a habit of seemingly running fine warmed up but they'll dip on cold starts.

 

Awhile back there was a post with some of the same problems. The guy took a hair dryer and heated his FICM before start. It cranked right up. Sent his FICM to Ed at FICM repair and it cured his problem. I would still check out my glow plugs tho.

 

Some devices are bad code readers. You have a scan gauge, program the X-gauge for DTC count and see what the count is. The fact you have to plug in says the extra heat helps it fire.

When you don't plug in what happens?

 

DTC count? Can you clarify?

When cold start, it take 4 or 5 tries to get the truck to fire enough to keep running. It seems to only fire on a couple of cylinders, sputters, kicks, belches black smoke (rich) and then dies. If you feather the throttle up to 1200-1500 rpm for 30 seconds or so, it will settle down and keep running- and then warm up as normal.

Leave it plugged in, and it starts just fine. All of this is at 45 degrees or warmer.

 

I'd be tickled if it was the FICM. That beats injector troubles any day of the week (I think...).

 

You need to go to a parts store and have your codes read. As others have said you more than likely need glowplugs at a minimum. If more than one plug is not functioning it is very difficult to get the engine to fire. You also may have some stiction going on. The Diagnostic trouble code count is what WatsonR is asking about

 

Instead of hitting the starter again and again, hold it until it somewhat stops popping and runs by itself.
If three plugs are out, she'll barely fire. Compression builds heat, heat fires the cylinder so let it compress a few cylinders full of fuel and it will start.

The couple glow plugs that actually are working, your heating so hot, the tips may melt off and drop into the cylinder. Think you have problems now? And plugging in pretty much confirms the issue. Once the cylinders are at around 60°, they fire easily and the block heater gets them near 120°

 

The scan gauge has the pre programmes gauges and 16 other that can be programmed. You have to code those gauges, called X-gauges. You can program one of them to read how many codes the truck has stored even though it won't read them, it will count them.

If you dcam the truck for codes, it comes back zero found, it the counter will show the stored codes. Then get a real reader and read them to diagnose the issue.

You can visit the scan gauge web site to find the x gauge codes or even search the forum, someone has posted them somewhere.

 

All right... Lots of stuff to check. Thank you!