2005 f350 6.0 all stock except egr delete. My turbo is spooling up and down constantly. I can actually watch my VGT duty cycle fluctuate while sitting at an idle too. I've cleared the codes and p0299 always shows up first, but then I'll get p0069 BARO/MAP, and a p0470 exhaust pressure sensor eventually. Sometimes it takes an hour of driving before those show up. I can watch all these values on my torque pro, and nothing seems out of the ordinary other than the turbo opening and closing at will. What can cause this? I hate to just start throwing sensors at it. Thank you guys

 

So what are the Baro, MAP, and EBP readings at KOEO?

 

These were taken while the truck is hot. I just drove it about 50 miles, turned it off and got the reading. I noticed one thing, if I feather the gas pedal, I can keep the boost going for a lot longer before it dues out and VGT goes to 15%. I'm thinking either the VGT solonoid is bad, or maybe that new MAP sensor us going bad but I never see anything off about the numbers. Sorry its blurry, if you cant see i can just post them. My battery looks low too considering i just shut it down.
I just started using this old cell phone as a display so it's not got ICPV and a couple other PIDs programmed yet, I just threw it on yesterday.

 

The EBP, MAP, and Baro readings look OK.

Are the VGT duty cycle readings changing at COLD idle or HOT idle?

TSB 09-24-03 (cycling the turbo) talks about a false P0470 code.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-for-6-0s.html

P0470 can cause a MAP/BARO correlation code, P0069 I believe.

If anything is wrong with the sensors, I would suspect the EBP before the MAP or Baro (from what you have posted). If you suspect the EBP, just drive with it disconnected for a while.

Maybe the vanes are sticking in the turbo? Has it been cleaned, etc recently?

 

Yeah u need to clean the turbo. I haven't yet because it's only been a couple months since the last time I cleaned it. The VGT duty cycle is never constant. Sometimes it slowly climbs to 85% then slowly falls back to the 40s. Right now it's idling and it's stuck at 85%. As soon as I start driving I will have good boost until about 4th gear and it will due out. Another funny thing is that I have the most power right when the boost is dying and I start hearing that deep exhaust sound. It has a ton of power right then for about 5 seconds, then it's gone and will barely climb a hill. Wait about a minute and it spools back up again. Yesterday it actually drove right for a while but went right back to this after I had to restart it.

 

Could be the VGT actuator. Not sure how to test that without an IDS. I'll look for some possible ways to troubleshoot. Those things are expensive.

Edit -

If you are having VGT problems, they should settle down w/ the EBP unplugged.

 

I wasn't sure if I could unplug the EBP sensor or even the MAP sensor and see if it gets better. I'll definitely unplug the ebp. Can I drive it like that or just at idle?

 

You can drive it w/ the EBP unplugged.

If you end up needing a new VGT actuator, I am a fan of the OEM one (Ford part #5C3Z-6F089-BA for $260), but Garrett makes one that people are using - part #792593-0001 for $160 at RiffRaff.

 

I pulled over, unplugged the EBP and got ZERO boost, so I plugged it back in and unplugged the MAP sensor and no change there either. I believe it's the vgt solonoid. If you watch the numbers, they're so sporadic and up and down that it seems like it can't hold the vanes in the center, only 85 or 15%. I remembered when I did my turbo rebuild a while back, I had trouble getting the actuator pin to go into the unison ring hole because it wanted to go to one side or the other.

 

Since Garrett is the supplier to Navistar, I'm sure the price differential is the cost of putting it in a different box, new label, and most of all the brand value adjustment of Ford.

 

If your vgt is not working (thus causing turbo to stick), you can clean the vgt actuator (but if you do, I highly recommend Carb cleaner and not Brake cleaner):

VGT solenoid replacment instructions??? - Page 2 - TheDieselGarage.com

"CAUTION: The VGT actuator valve is sensitive to contamination. All work areas must be clean before starting this procedure. Do not allow contamination to enter the valve ports, cam follower, or turbocharger housing. Handle the VGT actuator by the solenoid body only. Do not attempt to wipe oil off the valve. Do not let the valve come in contact with materials that could contaminate the valve mechanism.
CAUTION: Use only the Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner PM-2 to spray the actuator valve. Brake cleaner or other solvents may damage the actuator valve.
Be careful when you clean it. But check the oil supply tube. The old one is the stainless braided center section. The new one is the solid tube."

VGT Tests (Test 1 is w/ IDS):

Test 2
• Raise engine speed to 3500RPM and hold it at that point while monitoring EBP_G and MGP.
• EBP_G should be between 5 and 13 psi and MGP should be between 2 and 6 psi.
• If MGP and EBP_G are both high, disconnect the VGT control valve electrically and rerun the
test.
• If MGP and EBP_G change inspect the wiring harness and connections.
• If MGP and EBP_G do not change (lower) when VGTCV is disconnected remove the valve
from the turbo, being careful to handle the valve by its solenoid body only, and plug it into the
engine harness.
• Then apply pressure to the cam follower (tip of the valve) with your thumb while actuating the
valve with the WDS and look for movement.
• If the valve moves then proceed with Test 3, If the valve does not move replace the valve.
• The VGTCV (base part # 6F089) can be tested electrically, measure the resistance of the
actuator coil using a DVOM, the resistance should be between 3.42 & 4.18 ohms @ 73°F
EOT. If the engine is hot the resistance should be between 4.4 to 5.3 ohms @ 200°F EOT.

No-Load Boost Pressure Test
RPM..........VGTDC#............EBP_G............MG P
Idle...........60-82%............0-6 psi..........0-1 psi
WOT..........30-45%...........4-18 psi........2-9 psi

 

I wanted to update this in the hopes that it may save someone time or money. My issue ended up being the EBP tube. I took it off and cleaned it out and it's running great. There was a 100% blockage of carbon build up in both the end of the tube by the manifold, and the manifold fitting itself. It took a screw being drove into it to pull it all out. It was bad. But she's back on the road with $0 spent. Thanks for the help guys, this is a great site.