So after a year with my truck I have no real complaints the kids and wife and I love it. When I first got it I did all the maintenance I could handle fresh fluids all around. Last winter with rotella 15-40 non synthetic the truck started excellent no rumps non issues at all. Thinking I was doing the right thing 5k later I changed the oil with T6 now comes fall and wow my truck sounds awful even at 45*F. I put my snapon scanner to it and drove all over yesterday to record some data. I seen nothing out of the ordinary except ect would not get above 179*F. So this leads me to think I have a stiction issue. I am only 2300 miles into this oil change and think my truck does not like the T6. Is stiction just going to happen no matter what? Or is there a way to keep it from happening in the first place?

 

FICM Main Volts 45+?

As for stiction, besides good maintenance, it can rear it's ugly head anytime,

Need AE or Ford IDS to find which injector is the offender.

Josh

 

I think so. The clearances are tiny in the injector's spool valve and the oiling system develops deposits over time. I've tried a couple of the oil additives and they helped but it didn't last long enough to warrant the expense in my opinion. There is a write-up in the Tech folder on how to pull them out and clean them. Replacement or (possibly) cleaning is the longer term fix.

Btw, low ECT is likely just a weak thermostat. I've had to change mine several times over the last few years. Currently I'm running a Mishimoto 200° stat but it hasn't been in there long enough to know much about longevity. It's a bit pricy but I do like the way the truck runs at the higher temp.

 

Yes Ficm never dropped below 47.5 and maxed out at 49v. Reviewing data 48.5 was the majority idle 2500 and WOT it only varied 47.5-49 even dead cold. Alt V never went under 13.6. The inj PSI was in the 580's at idle topped out at 3972 WOT. The actual was always a few psi above the desired. I have no check engine light and the truck runs amazing when warmed up. Never had an issue til the cooler weather started. I have read the stiction fix clean thread and think it is a great write up. My only issue with that is if I am going that far I need to have stand pipes and dummy plugs on hand as I would not want to reuse them. I really should do the cleaning its just hard to find the downtime even on a weekend. I also always run stanodyne with every tank.

 

I have been eying that up rusty as this one was put in last winter and already not holding.

 

Injectors aren't supposed to last forever, sadly. How many miles and years do you have on them?

Brian

 

I haven't a clue if I Assume the worst 175xxx and it's an 05' so almost 10yrs. I have only owned the truck 1 year. If you go thru the stiction fix thread there really isn't much to fail in our injectors other than the electronics and orings.

 

If you want to look at the electric side, you can test them like this. (It's a copy/paste deal so some of it won't apply) I don't think it's common to have an electrical issue with them but it does happen sometimes.

Testing the electrical side of the fuel injectors:
ok try this=set up the scanner to do a injector buzz test, make sure there is as littel noise as posiable around the shop so you can hear the injector solenoids click. run the buzz test and listen for the injector solenoids to click.
the test will buzz all 8 then one at a time, numbers 1-8 then it will repeat.
you should here all of them click if so the injector solenoids and wire harness from the ficm is ok. if all click except #1 disconnect the suspect fuel injector connector and test the injector pins for resistance. measure the resistance between the suspected fuel injector pins,component side.
pins 1 and 2 =0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 3 and 4= 0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 1 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 1 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms
if the resistances are not within specs the fuel injector solenoid is bad and the injector will need replaced.
if the resistances are good you need to check the ficm.

 

stiction really only happens during the first start (or after a really long sit) of the day. i guess it could also be happening once the motor gets up to operating temps but is rather unlikely and really doubt that stiction has anything to do about your coolant temps like mentioned above...more likely the t-stat. last winter for me stiction was starting to poke its familiar head out (while under warranty i had 4 injectors replaced and a ficm so i am more than familiar with what stiction feels like), also i was throwing a P0611 code so off to Ed @ ficmrepair it went. after i got it back with the atlas 40 installed it cold started like a new truck! i'm not sure if it was my freshly re-built ficm or the tune that did it but i would highly recommend both to anyone having any cold start issues whether or not your ficm is showing 48v's.

also just this summer i had all 8 injectors out to freshen up the spool valves...it hasn't been cold enough to see any improvements yet, but the cold weather is just around the corner. a word of caution if you decide to pull the spool valves out. do NOT over tighten the nut & bolt that hold the coils on!! i learned the hard way after putting everything back together and trying to track down an intermittent rough idle once warm. idled and started like a champ when cold, but once i got up to operating temps the truck would shake intermittently just like it had stiction (i guess it kinda did...stction is anytime the spool valves are hanging up). the first time around i went a little or lot too tight on the coil bolts giving me problems...out they came again and just snugged them up (i've read that they are only supposed to be torqued to a half nM...well 1 nM is only .75 foot lbs). lesson learned the hard way.

 

Try switching from Rotella to a moly based 10w-30 CJ-4. I have 208,000 mi. with all original injectors and have never experienced "stiction". As long as your FICM checks out OK the only cost you're incurring is an oil change.

 

I agree with this it just seems my truck is not taking well to the syn rotella. The non syn ran great all last winter with no start up issues I should have stuck with what worked. We got down to -17*F last year and still had no issues after sitting at work all for 10hours with no heater plugged in.

 

What oils would that be?

 

I know of a few;
Chevron Delo le 10w-30
John Deere Plus 50 II 10w-30 (my oil choice)
Schaffer oil products use moly additives
Mystic also uses moly additives

There are sure to be others, but these are the ones I'm sure that do.

It's believed by me and some others that the moly used in the additive packages in the above mentioned oil helps keep the spool valves in the injectors functioning as they should. It may be a combination of moly, boron, and other additives within the add-pack that Rotella doesn't contain.

My current 6.0('07) along with the former ('04) NEVER experienced injector issues with over 350,000 mi. combined, the common denominator being Deere Plus 50. I have over 130,000 mi. running 10w-30 year around at 7,500 mi. OCI. Prior to making the switch to 10w-30 I ran 15w-40 Plus 50.

 

Yeah I want I switch away from the t6 this oil change cause it seems like my truck starts to run rough when I get about 4k on it. I was thinking of going to delvac esp but haven't made my mind up yet. Maybe I'll look into the deer.

 

I have noticed a lot of members stating they can tell a difference in the way their engine sounds after xxxx miles after an oil change, whereas I never have.