How much oil are you talking about in those rails? I got one of these puppies at Pep Boys and I use it for everything but mixing two stroke oil. As reported above, different tubes and straws are added when needed.
Pennzoil® 2 Cycle/stroke Engine Oil Gas Mixing Syringe Tool Motorcycle Boat ATV | eBay

 

Some owners have zero problems with remanned/rebuilt injectors, others have a lot of problems. Even from the reputable names in remanufactured injectors.

Brand new injectors are going to cost you, modified or not. This is why I am going to go with new PIS 160/80 injectors. They are brand new, and have an 80% over nozzle which can be tuned to run like a stock AC 160/0 nozzle, but has the capability to keep EGT's in check when towing heavy up a grade.

That is the goal for my truck, reliability, longevity, MPG and towing 12K lbs around the country safely. With what I have done, and what I plan to do (KC38R turbo and new PIS 160/80 injectors) I will have one heck of a tow rig that just laughs at grades.

Unlimited Diesel has a lifetime warranty that is very attractive, but for me I would rather pay the extra coin for the peace of mind that the new injector will last ~200K miles without any problems.

You need to figure out what you want out of the truck, then figure if you want new or remmaned, then figure out what size you want, then select a dealer...

 

Mark that would be really useful to refill the oil rails after the injectors are put back in.

I don't think there's much oil in there, but the fuel rail empties at the same time when you pull the rear injector so you get more than you'd think.

 

I talked to Dan, the dealer I'm buying from. He said that I can run the oil after injectors for 500-1400 miles. He recommended about 500 miles to change it and not worry about the filter.

He said he doesn't worry about draining anything. Just pulls the rear one first. He said it will all drain thru that. Also said he doesn't suction anything out. Just pull glow plugs and bump start/turn by hand.

Have you guys seen his build? It's sitting at 918 how! Says he's gonna break 1k this year. He sent me a video, SUCKER ROLLS OUT! Maybe some day I'll have an extra one to play with haha

 

Yes, leaving glow plugs out (I don't know about injectors) place valve covers on to contain the mess and give it a whirl, that will safely blow the oil out of your cylinders and all over the place if you forget about the valve covers.

 

funny I was just thinking about that was well.. SO i figured you could drain the new oil out, do what it was you are going to do and let that bad stuff drain out in separate container.. pour your newish oil back in and top off.. saving the wallet..

 

Are you talking about the vacuum pump? They're $38 on Amazon.

 

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or

Click here for other options...

 

You make it too easy Sous

 

You would have to have injectors installed or else it would all go back in right?


That's a good idea. IDK yet if that's what I'll do. But it's an option anyways.

Ohhhh. I was looking at the wrong ones. I was looking at like the electric on with a reservoir it was like $300

So I called Dan at SDK and talked with him a little bit. He was able to explain some of the differences between the injectors and help me get a better understanding at what I was looking at. I told him what I use the truck for and my plans for it. And he really stressed that a 160/30 would be the best for my setup. He had me sold on a set that would have been at least a couple hundred more. But he hadn't really talked to me yet, so I respected that he was really trying to get me what I needed even if he didn't make the big sale. So that is what I have landed on. Fits the budget. A little more power. No further supporting mods required except maybe some fuel delivery down the road.

Harnesses and gaskets get here Friday. More wiring stuff for the new pigtails should be here soon. I've got a bunch of other crap that's pulled apart that needs finished. I got a lot stacked up on this haha. I gotta try and fit this in between school work and family, so that'll be fun

 

For something on a shelf right now (if you have a Horrible Fright in town), this is one of maybe 5 tools I bought there that I really like and use: [LINK]



Yeah... it's a brake bleeder, but a little finessing of the tubing makes it a powerful and fast fluid sucker-upper. No more pump, drain, pump, drain. Now it's more like connect to air compressor, pull trigger, and watch - then drain when finished with the job.

 

Yep, that and probably a couple of other things...like blowing fuel all over the place.

 

It wouldn't drain back into the cylinder, it would just make a mess out of the injector cups that you'd have to wipe out before installing new injectors.

Assuming you start with the plugs and injectors out:

1. Install injectors
2. Install valve covers (temporary)
3. Crank motor over by hand several times
4. Remove valve covers
5. Install glow plugs

At this point, assuming everything else is back together enough (turbo installed, serp belt back on, all fluids, etc.) you can hot-torque the injectors. These are the instructions that I pieced together from various bits of advice.

When you install the injectors, use loc-tite 243 on the upper hold down bolts. It's a medium strength oil-tolerant thread locker. I blew the holes out with a shot of BPC and compressed air before installing them anyway. Once you get the uppers nice and tight (don't snap one off) you install the injectors. Torque the lowers to 120 in-lb using an in-lb torque wrench. Don't use a ft-lb wrench!

You'll want to fill the HPOP reservoir and the oil rails with fresh oil before you start it.

Then start the motor up with the covers off and none of the CAC piping installed. Obviously remove anything under the hood that might get sucked in to the running engine. Even at idle the turbo blows a lot of air and the engine draws a lot. Let it get warmed up - about 45 minutes or so - then re-torque the injectors. Some of mine took an extra half or 3/4 of a turn to get back down to spec.

 

Yeah apparently I was WAY off in my search for a pump. . . Thanks

Yeah that

I like this idea. I should have all my other stuff put back together by the time my new ones get here.

I thought I wouldnt need to pull the upper hold down?

 

You don't, unless you want to put loc-tite on the threads.