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Airbags installation

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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 12:46 PM
  #16  
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I installed the same exact system but mounted it just behind the fuel tank on the the fifth wheel backing plate. It works great. The ride is not harsh at all without a load when you take the bags down to 5 psi
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 01:34 PM
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Thanks for the vid, saw it last night in my youtube feed, i guess because I have previously watched a few of your other vids. Great job.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DL222
Great video thanks.
Are you planning on doing one for a fuel filter change?
I'm definitely planning on that. Just waiting for the computer to tell me to do it.

Originally Posted by 347Flatty
Great job on the video! How has the airbags affected your ride quality when empty and the psi lowered?
Originally Posted by CO Wapiti
I installed the same exact system but mounted it just behind the fuel tank on the the fifth wheel backing plate. It works great. The ride is not harsh at all without a load when you take the bags down to 5 psi
I agree that the ride is totally stock when the airbags are deflated. There was some concern that the internal jounce jumpers would contact too soon and make the ride harsh but that's not what I'm seeing. When I'm running unloaded, the airbags are at 5 psi and the regular spring suspension does all the work.

It was fun to finally use the upfitter switch and wiring. It is soooo easy. The wires are plenty long enough to use and their position in the engine compartment is a lot easier to get to rather than tucked up under the driver side dash like on the previous generation.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by EpicCowlick
It was fun to finally use the upfitter switch and wiring. It is soooo easy. The wires are plenty long enough to use and their position in the engine compartment is a lot easier to get to rather than tucked up under the driver side dash like on the previous generation.
Have you looked for the feed through wires yet, on the passenger side up high by the firewall and beside the A/C unit? they need to be a foot longer.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 03:21 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by wb6anp
Have you looked for the feed through wires yet, on the passenger side up high by the firewall and beside the A/C unit? they need to be a foot longer.
I haven't done that yet but am planning to. I want to use #5 as an always-on for the dash cam and #6 for backup/camp setup lights.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 03:46 PM
  #21  
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You will have to pull the plastic cover under the A/C unit, even then it was very difficult holding the wires and getting a stripper crimper in there to do anything, I didn't cut the protective cover off, I was able to slice it and peel it off to try and keep what little length there is. It would probably be easier to just run your own wire through a grommet on the drivers side.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 05:05 PM
  #22  
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My pass through wires were plenty long on the engine side. (They are taped in half so if you aren't pulling them out of the tape, you're only getting half the length.) Much better than on my 2012. On the inside under the dash is where mine were WAY too short. I used three of them for my radar, dash cam, and sub amp. What a pain in the ****...
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 05:50 PM
  #23  
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those are the upfitter wires not the pass through, the pass thru wires are on the passenger side blunt cut on both ends, one end just below the computer, the other end up high behind the A/C unit.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by wb6anp
those are the upfitter wires not the pass through, the pass thru wires are on the passenger side blunt cut on both ends, one end just below the computer, the other end up high behind the A/C unit.
Yes, I'm aware of the difference but I was indeed referring to the blunt cut pass through wires. I had to use three of the 4 pass through wires to feed the devices I mentioned in my previous post. Both the uptfitters and the pass through wires on my truck were plenty long on the engine side once you unfolded them where they were taped in half.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
Yes, I'm aware of the difference but I was indeed referring to the blunt cut pass through wires. I had to use three of the 4 pass through wires to feed the devices I mentioned in my previous post. Both the uptfitters and the pass through wires on my truck were plenty long on the engine side once you unfolded them where they were taped in half.
oops misread, for some reason I thought it said drivers side not engine side. yes the engine side are fine, the cabin side however.... Come on Ford what were you thinking.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:15 PM
  #26  
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EXACTLY! It took me the better part of an hour to crimp onto the 3 I used on the cabin side. You wonder if they do that so you'll pay a Ford tech to do it....
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 06:17 PM
  #27  
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I was so tempted to remove the pax seat to lay down and reach the wires, would have been easier maybe. Instead of kneeling and twisting under the dash. Thats what I usually did to work under instrument panels in aircraft.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 11:07 PM
  #28  
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For the short pass through wires, it took me less than a minute for each one to strip and splice.

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-20011-Automatic-Stripper/dp/B01018CX46

https://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 06:19 AM
  #29  
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Re: air tank. I don't have a 2017 truck but I want to help....if it's similar.

On my 2015 I installed the 2.5 gallon air tank directly behind the carrier bearing and above the drive shaft. I used a 12" x 18" sheet of sheet metal, mounted the tank and wiring and two 100% duty cycle compressors (viair #10009) to the sheet metal and then mounted the whole thing to the cross supports under the bed. It stays pretty clean and dry up there. Hope this gives you an option.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 09:21 AM
  #30  
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That's exactly what I'm thinking but I haven't figured out the space required. Mine is a short bed so there's 18 inches less to work with.
 
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