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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Is camber non adjustable?

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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 03:56 PM
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Is camber non adjustable?

My '69 Ranger's stance isn't level and was considering replacing my coils but it got me to wondering- Is static camber set by spring length alone?

If so it would seem to me the spring length would need to be dead on to get even tire wear, or there would need to be a way to shim.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 05:05 PM
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Camber is set by bending the I-beams. You must find a heavy truck shop to align them since the local auto places don't have the equipment any more. Changing springs will make it worse without the alignment bending. And while you are at it, check to make sure that your I-beam and radius arm bushings are not rotten.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon Richard
My '69 Ranger's stance isn't level and was considering replacing my coils but it got me to wondering- Is static camber set by spring length alone?

If so it would seem to me the spring length would need to be dead on to get even tire wear, or there would need to be a way to shim.
Yep, spring length sets it.

Originally Posted by RichS2659
Camber is ADJUSTED by bending the I-beams. You must find a heavy truck shop to align them since the local auto places don't have the equipment any more. Changing springs will make it worse without the alignment bending. And while you are at it, check to make sure that your I-beam and radius arm bushings are not rotten.
^x2
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 05:33 PM
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Wow, for such a successful design that sure is rudimentary.

I have also been contemplating drop beams which I wouldn't dare drive on after someone tried bending.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon Richard
Is static camber set by spring length alone
No.
Camber angle is set by the I-beam.
Sagging spring(s) will cause the I beam to pivot 'up' which will cause negative camber.
Worn out I beam pivot bushing will also cause negative camber as the weight of the truck will cantilever over the spring. Pushing the wheel 'up' into the wheel well and the pivot side down.

Front coil spring should be checked for correct installed height and the pivot bushing should be checked for wear/sagging before any bending is done to the I beam to correct a camber issue.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 05:59 PM
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All the above are correct if you add them all together.
When the trucks were brand new they had new springs and bushings. Alignment set. Alignment would last forever if the "springs" didn't sag. True, worn out bushings do change the alignment, but simply replacing the bushings would re-set the original alignment.
But as the springs slowly sag the alignment slowly goes away. So the truck gets a few alignments in it's life as the springs continue to sag. People don't usually replace springs until they are real bad.
So you see, it is the springs And the I beams.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 06:17 PM
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The factory front coil springs are side specific in the Bumpsides. The taller spring with the thinner wire diameter goes on the left side. The shorter, thicker wire diameter spring goes on the right side.

I replaced the old factory front coils on my truck in 2014 (while I was doing a front disc brake conversion with power brakes). I replaced the coil springs with some brand new Moog CC808 progressive rate front coils. --I also installed new kingpins/bronze bushings, polyurethane I-beam and radius arm bushings and new shocks, as well as a factory '78 F250 Dentside front swaybar and a '79 Bronco rear swaybar on my F100.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ont-drums.html
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 06:24 PM
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Sounds like someone real nitpicky about alignment isn't gonna get what they want out of a twin I beam unless you go the distance with fab'ing adjustable beam pivot locators and running 4x4 spring buckets with coil levelers.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 08:52 PM
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[QUOTE=ultraranger;17096790]The factory front coil springs are side specific in the Bumpsides. The taller spring with the thinner wire diameter goes on the left side. The shorter, thicker wire diameter spring goes on the right side.


Is this true for the F250's as well?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon Richard
Sounds like someone real nitpicky about alignment isn't gonna get what they want out of a twin I beam unless you go the distance with fab'ing adjustable beam pivot locators and running 4x4 spring buckets with coil levelers.
Yes, but the truth is, unless you are running SUPER wide tires on the front, camber wear is not an issue. I run with 8" of tread on the pavement and my camber wear is no worse than any other vehicle on the road.

Stock springs and stock ride height of course. If you run different Springs without adjusting the beams, that's where you'll have problems.

Lowering beams use a specific calculated spring height and compensate accordingly. So no problem there.

Lift kits for these trucks however, are very expensive, because the only company that makes them has to bend the beams and engineer some new parts to keep things square.

1980 brought around a new design and included adjustable ball joints to take care of the alignment . It was that way from then on. So only 65-79 trucks have the "non-adjustable" camber/caster alignment.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
Is this true for the F250's as well?
Yes.
These are the listings for the F250(65-70), but the F100(65-70) used the 8226(I6) and 8228(V8) matched pairs as well.

Per Moog
8226(I6) uses 8192(D)/8194(P)
8228(V8) uses 8194(D)/8196(P).
CC808 'Hef-T-Coil' is a symmetrical pair using variable rate springs.

Spring rates
8192 - 285 lb/in, 1500lb @ 11.5"
8164 - 357 lb/in, 1625lb @ 11.5"
8196 - 417 lb/in, 1750lb @ 11.5"
CC808-383 lb/in, 1700lb @ 11.5"

Engine is not located in the center of the frame rails and are offeset to the passenger side. If you look at the rubber body plug on the cowl in relation to the engine centerline(easy to note with a V8 and air cleaner stud) the engine is not center of the bay.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 09:53 AM
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Aw Mad MIKE
I see you still have a single well master cylinder if this is your truck in the picture.
Man those old style our not save and should be changed over to a double well master cyl.
Orich
 
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