Wondering if anyone has good luck with a particular bushing. Recently replaced springs and bushings. I've found a bunch of them. I'm hoping to get zero camber eventually. Having a great deal of trouble finding anybody local to align the front end correctly.

 

I don't believe the camber is supposed to be 0. There is normally a split on it for these trucks, meaning a little more on one side than the other. Same for caster. Especieally caster! You can do a better toe alignment with a tape measure than you can get off most alignment machines run by morons that don't know how to calibrate them. If your wheel is crooked after an alignment then something ain't right. I know for a fact there is not one single alignment tech in my area that knows squat about the adjustment bushings on these things also.
Not any more.
It's such a simple process getting the right bushings too. If the machine is working right and the tech does the caster sweep like he is supposed to. All you have to do on most machines is do a caster sweep, type in what degree bushings are in it now and the computer tells you what bushing to put in it. Then replace them and check it again. It's almost too simple but Noone ever seems to do it right. Most techs shoot for somewhere inside the range the computer gives them except for dead in the middle on each side.
On a truck that calls for 4.2 degrees caster on one side and 5.5 on the other with a range of + or - 1 degree that can add up to a 2 degree screw up. I always shot for the middle. Those numbers are just an example from an F-150 4x4 I think. I did a lot of those. I can't recall the diesel ones off hand.


My advice: Fix everything that's allowing the wheels to sag before even thinking about alignment. If you got leaf springs, have them rearched, coil springs; probably replace the radius arm bushings and the springs. Pivot bushings too. If you still have out of whack caster and camber after all that then I'd recommend a frame shop that knows what they are doing over an alignment shop.

Alignments were my specialty for many years in case you were wondering. I quit because there aren't many honest shops around anymore.

 

Thanks Rranch. I was hoping you might respond. I put in new stock springs from my local spring shop. All new bushings (poly) including the pivots. Rear springs and bushings are also new. Had an issue with the velvet ride shackles the PO had installed. Cocked the driver side rear out so rear end was cockeyed. So I don't believe there is anything left for me to do. The camber is not supposed to be zero. A little positive is the norm. But I had my 86 done years ago and it was 0 camber (or as close as it comes) and had real good luck with it that way. The issue with the 97 is too much positive camber (and a shop that can't find their tail with both hands).

Thanks allot.

 

Ask the spring shop about an alignment or a alignment shop they can recommend. An independent shop with a rack is a better choice than a tire shop IMO. RR is right that is takes a tech who cares and knows what they are doing to correctly align a vehicle well. There is a balance between specs, tire wear and driveability. A good tech will get it right before it leaves the shop.

I could do it for you but the travel cost would be a bit much!

 

This is just a thought but for a little more than the cost of a GOOD alignment these days you can buy your own gauges and do it yourself. For Toe all you need is a tape measure really. For caster and camber a nice set of magnetic gauges are real reasonable now. They even got laser sets under 1000 bucks these days. I'm trying to talk my wife into getting me one soon. If you do go this rout, I'd be happy to walk you through the process over the phone if you like. The only difference this way is you will have to do a little math. No computer aligner to mess it up for you. Or frustrated technician.

 

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the thoughts.

TJ if I could get it there I would take you up on your offer. Yes I was going to ask the spring guys about a recommendation. Should have done that to begin with. Logistic and time issues kept me local. Live and learn.

RR if it comes down to it I may send you a PM. I've been looking at the different portable units available. Which one are you looking at? If somebody would let me use a rack for a few hours I could do it myself. It's been since the seventies since I did any alignment work at all other than getting it close and taking to a shop to true up.

I will put together something about the whole story someday. It's pretty comical.

Thanks again.

 

Looking up part numbers for the bushings. Moog k8969 2 3/4 degree and Moog k80108 3.2 degree adjustable. Just want to check if anyone has used or has them on their rig.
The shop put in k8966 2 degree adjustable and aligned it to 97 light duty specs. So I have to tell them what parts to use and what specs. Unbelievable. Pulls heavily to the right now.

 

I never liked the adjustable ones myself. I always used fixed degree ones. I've seen a few adjustables break on the road and usually broke them trying to adjust them when they had been installed a while.

 

I have used the adjustable ones a few times. Never had an issue with them. We keep a few on hand as well as the non adjustable ones.

 

I just put the MOOG adjustable ones on my F250 back in the fall when I did balljoints..

 

I'm in to deep to let the shop off the hook. I'll give them all the leeway I can to protect my position. If they don't fix it I'll have to go the state agency small claims court route to recoup funds. Dropping the truck off today along with a stern letter.

RR I have heard the same on the adjustable bushings. We will see.