P0470 Question
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P0470 Question
I popped code P0470 a few weeks ago. The EBP sensor had actually fallen apart. The threading was still in the bracket, but the sensor had sheared off and was only held to the truck by the electronic plug. I also found a hole in the tube. I replaced the tube, the bracket, and the sensor, and for about a week, the code went away and the truck started running normally again. However, the code is back, and she's back to a really rough idle, hard starts, hard shifts, and when starting up, small amounts of blue smoke. I looked at the plug, but it seems like it's in good shape. I've been doing research, and know that there are some tests I need to run, like testing the electrical connection, but I wanted to ask if a faulty MAP sensor can throw a P0470. I couldn't find anything about that, but I do know that MAP and EBP work together, and it seemed like all my problems are similar to a bad MAP.
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Alright so here is an update. I started the truck up with everything plugged in, so I could see if the arm that opens the valve moves at all. It didn't budge. So i unplugged the connector at the turbo, and it still didn't move. It looks like it is stuck closed. it also looks like its been leaking oil after close inspection. Wouldn't it throw another code, like 473 or something if there was a problem with the valve? Because after I unplugged the connector at the turbo, it still didn't show any codes other than 470
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,076
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From: Aransas Pass, Tx
You could pop your down pipe off and peek in to see if it is stuck open or closed.
If I am remembering correctly, only cali trucks throw a CEL when the valve is unplugged.
I am not sure if federal trucks throw a soft code when you unplug it.. I don't think mine has a soft code for the EBPV and it is completely deleted.
If I am remembering correctly, only cali trucks throw a CEL when the valve is unplugged.
I am not sure if federal trucks throw a soft code when you unplug it.. I don't think mine has a soft code for the EBPV and it is completely deleted.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
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From: Madison, WI
P0470 is for the SENSOR. Has nothing to do with VALVE operation. When you replaced the tube, did you confirm that the fitting on the manifold is not clogged? 'Course, even if you did, it may be clogged now.
The VALVE shouldn't close unless ambient temperature is below a certain point, something like 35F. Did you check the position of the valve by removing the downpipe? Does the exhaust sound like the valve is closing?
The VALVE shouldn't close unless ambient temperature is below a certain point, something like 35F. Did you check the position of the valve by removing the downpipe? Does the exhaust sound like the valve is closing?
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
If the PCM sees a defective sensor (P0470) it won't try to cycle the valve. PCM uses the sensor data (back pressure) to determine if the valve is working or not. Bad sensor, it won't even try.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Madison, WI
In that case, it should leave the valve open. Of course, the PCM uses the sensor for engine control as well, so if it's indeed getting a bad reading, that is more likely the cause of the running problem(s).
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Alright, I popped the downpipe off to get a closer look. That thing is shut, and I tried to open it and it won't budge. I also discovered an exhaust leak, and oil coming out of the actuator. At this point, I'm just going to delete the system. I live in Texas, so it doesn't ever get cold enough to make me think that'll cause a problem.
While I'm in there, I figured I'd go ahead and replace all the seals and stuff on the turbo. Anything else I should do while I'm in there? I was thinking maybe up-pipes would be a good idea. I'm replacing the downpipe with a straight one and getting rid of the stock downpipe. I'm also thinking about changing out the compressor wheel and turbo housing. Both the housing and downpipe are Banks replacements, and the delete stuff is coming from Riffraff (pedestal, resistor, and outlet).
I'm big into preventative maintenance, because I hear some of this stuff isn't fun and I have no intention of ever having to do it again.
While I'm in there, I figured I'd go ahead and replace all the seals and stuff on the turbo. Anything else I should do while I'm in there? I was thinking maybe up-pipes would be a good idea. I'm replacing the downpipe with a straight one and getting rid of the stock downpipe. I'm also thinking about changing out the compressor wheel and turbo housing. Both the housing and downpipe are Banks replacements, and the delete stuff is coming from Riffraff (pedestal, resistor, and outlet).
I'm big into preventative maintenance, because I hear some of this stuff isn't fun and I have no intention of ever having to do it again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Bahstun
replace the oil rail plugs on rear of heads since you will have to room to do it with the turbo out of there. Replace the fuel 90 under the turbo pedestal.
Don't need a new turbo outlet IMO, remove the valve flap with grinder, pull the shaft out and add in a steel plug where shaft was to save you some $$$ for other stuff.
Don't need a new turbo outlet IMO, remove the valve flap with grinder, pull the shaft out and add in a steel plug where shaft was to save you some $$$ for other stuff.
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