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1981 f150 ranger lariat, 2wd with 300i6 and c6 trans
the brake pedal would not go in but about a half inch or so and sounds like it is hitting something, anyone got a clue why this would be?
Get under the dash and take a look. You can disconnect the pedal from the booster arm. You can also take the nuts loose that hold the brake master cylinder onto the booster under the hood, leave the lines connected, and gently pull it out away from the booster. That way you can separate the system into 3 parts and see what seems to be hanging up.
The way Franklin said to do it is the way to go.
I would do the master from the booster first as it is easier to do.
Then the rod from pedal. Have you ever worked under the dash?
I had a brake booster pivot rust so it would not move/release easily, even with the plastic bushings.
I will not tell you what I went thru to make the plastic bushings as you cant get them for this car.
Once that was fixed, booster cleaned & painted and new master all was good........for a bit!
The car sat for a bit and when I went to move it the pedal would not move at all!
Using the above process I found the booster was frozen, think rusted from cleaning?
I was able to get it working again but if I find the booster bad when the car gets done I will have to send it out for a rebuild as I hear the ones you get for this car thru parts stores are not right. So far it is good for moving in/out of garage.
Using the above process I found the booster was frozen,
That's how I got my 86 Ranger for free. As you would drive it, the front brakes would start locking up. I knew the guy who first had it, he replaced the front calipers. Didn't fix it. He got tired of messing with it and traded it for some work around his house to another guy I know. He tried the master cylinder, didn't fix it either. He got tired of messing with it, so I traded him some work for it and got it basically for free.
I finally figure out the booster was rusted and hanging up. But no amount of wd40 or penetrate would free it up, so I ended up replacing it and the front rotors. Those rotors where cooked from driving it with the front brakes applied all the time.
Alright thanks guys for the help, as soon as I removed the master cylinder from the booster the pedal freed up. I'm going to get a new master cylinder, I've got to replace front brake pads and I will probably replace the front calipers at the same time as well as new brake hoses (old ones were dry-rotted).
One step closer to having this baby back on the road next is rear brakes, tires, windshield...you know, important stuff like that
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