Pulled the front end off my donor truck and it seems that the front discs/rotors etc were rebuilt recently. So it looks like the calipers rotors bushings, etc are all newish and won't need replacing.

But, I pulled the booster and master cylinder and these will have to be replaced (well, not sure about booster)

How do I check the booster? It's expensive and if I don't need to replace it, I don't want to spend the money.

There is a rod that runs from the booster to the master cylinder that seems to be stuck in the booster. The new boosters that I've seen don't come with this rod but I don't know how to remove it.

And what is the benefit of having a booster?

Thanks
Hillbillybuddha

 

Boosters are vacuum assisted, and make braking easier in regards to the amount of pedal pressure required
to stop...you can also lower the pedal closer to the floor for better ergonomics during driving and braking as
the pedal travel req'd is less for boosted discs.

Used boosters are hit and miss-mostly miss. They tend to get leaky and go to crap after sitting for long
periods-like in a wrecking yard. seals go, and if someone has jammed the pedal to the floor in the yard, it really
does a number on the master.You can get re-man'd ones at many auto parts stores which will need to be
modified slightly to fit your brake pedal arm. You also need to get the brake light switch, as the new dual
master/booster doesn't have the electrical hook ups...

I'm assuming you are using dual piston "Dayton" calipers??

If so, don't forget the proportioning and metering valves-the metering valve is req'd for dual pistons, along with
the brake line supports-best to get them from two different trucks, as one is bolted on, the other is riveted.
Master needs to be bench-bled...

 

Yeah. I've got the Dayton calipers and the proportioning and metering valve.

I guess I'll just get a reman booster. I think the Cheapest one I found was around $150. plus another $45 for the reman master.

Any idea how to remove that push rod between the booster and master? Mine is stuck in there and the new booster doesn't come with one. But the one that I have is pretty rusted and corroded so maybe I should look for a new one.

Hillbillybuddha

 

hbb, If you got a up to 79 donor everything should swap. The geometry of the firewall & floor is same from 65 to 79. I still run the original 66 pedal 3spd pedal. The connect point is different by 1 1/8".

AdvanceAuto has Cardone Vacuum Power Brake Booster without Master Cylinder - Remanufactured for $90.00 + $20.00 core. Part No. 54-73009



John

 

Hey Hillbilly,

Ya Mate, ultimately...we're talking brakes here-pretty important, and I think worth spending a few extra bucks on.
Jowilker also did a nice job with the brake light switch under the dash with the brake pedal...mine is a good set-up,
his is better.

Make sure you replace all of the rubber bushings prior to install, makes a huge difference in steering. I do recommend
shopping for the booster that has a flat arm (which connects to the brake pedal) vs the round rod with spherical ends.
The flat rod simply needs a hole drilled to connect to the brake pedal, whereas the round rod needs cut and welded.
Here are a few images of metering/prop. valve placement and the brake light switch-(Jowilkers is better though!)
The bottom image shows the flat rod I mention...I just re-drilled a new hole (which allows the brake pedal to be lowered
about an inch) and installed a bushing into the hole to prevent metal wear.
The bracket holding the brake light stop is a door hinge from a 1968 Bell helicopter!

Jason

 

The rod is held in with a metal ring that lays in a groove.
To get it out just pull.

 

John: I've got my donor truck sitting in the back yard. I'm having a couple small issues with it, nothing that big of a deal though. Like it has pretty new brake set up, with new lines and everything but the master cylinder has the outlets on the opposite side as the original. I could easily reuse the lines if I could find the same (or similar) master cylinder (the one on there looks new except it has a bunch of corrosion and rust in the hole that goes to the booster.) I think Napa can look up parts visually so I'll try them.

Jason: you make a good point about brakes being important. I'll definitely spend the money on a booster. Couple questions on shopping for the booster. 1) I've noticed some boosters have an adjustable pushrod, wouldn't that work better then drilling a new hole in a flat pushrod? 2) when shopping for a booster, I've assumed that they are not a universal fit. So if I am going to be shopping for a booster outside of the normal kind (with the rounded hole at the end) What kind of info will I need to have at napa to find a booster that will work, i.e. bolt pattern, bore, width, vacuum?
Also, thanks for the pictures.

Rogue40: Thanks for answering my question. That rod would have driven me crazy. Do you happen to know if anyone sells just that part?

Hillbillybuddha

 

Some of the guys have used a spacer on the firewall to avoid the re-bore rod.

I'm thinking my 66 had just one line out of the master. I am a little cornfuzed on your side issue.


John

 

Sorry John. My donor truck is a 69 F250 with the optional power steering and power disc brakes. I'm putting these on a 66 F250. The 69 F250 has a duel reservoir master cylinder. It has the outlets on the left side of the reservoir while the originals, I believe, were on the right side. The new brake lines were made to fit the after market left side outlets.

Sorry about the confusion.

 

I don't know who would have a new one but the junkyards are full of them.

 

OK, I have not worked with the 250s like the 100s. I was not aware that the 66 250 had more than a single cyl as well.

I had to use some new lines when I upgraded going from a single. I suggest finding out if the MC is side optional and install it knowing that one day you may have to replace some parts, so get it right.

I am confident that if I need parts for my truck I can order 76 F100 and get what I need. Get it right now, knowing later you wont have to deal with it.

An example: I am a carpenter, Both Kwikset & Schlage brands are good entry door locks that should give years of service. The Schlage will open while in the locked position from the inside allowing the door to close and lock you butt out. They WILL NOT be installed where I live.


John

 

Please, forgive the intrusion on this thread. This is the closest thread I've found to discussing what I'm trying to learn. I'm trying to help get my brother-in-laws 65 F100 swapped to disc. I have everything from the 78 F150 (single piston) donor for the swap, but I'm confused in the Booster / MC area. His is a manual brake drum / drum. The original style 65 booster(from pics) seems to have a long rod with an eye at the end. All of the later models seem shorter, and/or offset. I'm hoping there's a simple solution like my 65 Cutlass (no Chevy). 65 booster, 72 dual MC & push rod, plumb, DONE.
What is the Ford answer?

 

Rick, Welcome to FTE & the Slicks Forum.

Providing both the 65 & the 78 are I6s and the same transmission, you should have everything that you need. I still have my original manual 3spd. brake pedal in my truck. I drilled a new hole in the booster blade 1 1/8" closer to the firewall to get the pedal closer to the floor. I pulled the brake wires back inside the cab and mounted the switch under the dash. I swapped to C6 auto and used the 76 steering column needed when adding power steering.

If you have more questions post away.


John