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Missing injectors, could be FICM

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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 01:55 PM
  #16  
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Other members will chime in later this evening.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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Yea, I know, I wish I would've gotten an IDS, but it was way too much. Okay, so I figured as much, now it was telling me number 1 inj one other time, another time it was 8. Now it's 5 and 6 which are on different sides, different ficm drivers. So what does that tell me? It's hard to say. When I think injectors, I feel that's not right. When I think ficm, I think that's gotta be it, but idk, I am looking at the logic board right now and it looks great. I've tested most of the components already and nothing is shorted or fried. I've never been in the odd side of the engine, never even took the valve cover off.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by johnl2
If anyone has a known good ficm laying around, I'd pay you to borrow it to test my truck. Just name your price.
I see you're in PA. What zip code?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:24 PM
  #19  
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Have you tested fuel pressure? It'll rule out a failing HFCM or weak regulator spring. Definitely don't want to starve those expensive injectors! $420 for the arp studs is definitely pricey, but worth the extra clamping force they offer over factory bolts. The reason the extra clamping force is needed is due to the lack of enough head bolts. After the 6.0 ford added 8 more bolts per head. Standpipes & dummy plugs are updated because the new ones have a Teflon backup ring behind the orings that increase the pressure the orings can take. Pretty basic hydraulics knowledge that International should've known with pressures that high. Why they didn't have those to begin with from the factory is beyond me. Probably because they cut so many corners and the Teflon backup rings would've costed $4 more per truck, executives gotta get their fat bonus ya know!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:31 PM
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You can't look at a logic board and tell if its OK or not like you can looking for a cracked solder joint
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 87crewdually
I see you're in PA. What zip code?
Tobyhana Pa 18466 , it's in the poconos
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:34 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
You can't look at a logic board and tell if its OK or not like you can looking for a cracked solder joint
Yes, I know that, I've been doing electronics for 10+ years. I was just saying that all of the components looked good, in other words, nothing is fried. I am fully aware that a component can be dead and look completely fine. I looked for cracked solder joints, none to be seen.

Actually, now that you remind me, solder joints are probably the number 1 problem with these, given the conditions. Or cold joints. Which would be very hard to find. I may try and bake it.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:37 PM
  #23  
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have you listened at the engine bay while you do a buzz test. So you are listening for the coil to click in firing order. It sound like all 8 buzz at once. Then click click click in firing order on one side of coil then click click click on other side of coil. Firing order is 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8. Am I making sense?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:38 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Bumblebee04
Have you tested fuel pressure?
Yes, I have all the gauges, rail and pump. I also have the blue spring upgrade. And yes, I know about how they screwed us with the head bolts, but hey, the world is all about making money, no matter how many people you have to screw to do it.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:40 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by daddykitty
have you listened at the engine bay while you do a buzz test. So you are listening for the coil to click in firing order. It sound like all 8 buzz at once. Then click click click in firing order on one side of coil then click click click on other side of coil. Firing order is 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8. Am I making sense?
Yes, I did the buzz test. I hear all 8 injector coils click.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:53 PM
  #26  
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I'm leaning the same direction as you... FICM. It shouldn't keep moving from hole to hole.

And I've been doing electronics for 33+ years.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:00 PM
  #27  
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They say low compression can cause a miss, but I did the test Ron does with the wire to battery, ignition off and listen for it. But it turns over straight and sounds great. Also, isolating injectors, which I did and like I said, while it's in the condition, I turn off each injector individually and only one doesn't make a difference, not really. It makes a little difference, as if by turning that injector off, it TOTALLY stopped working, where before I turned it off, it was partially working. Make sense? I also read crankcase overfull. Fuel dilution. Idk how to test for that.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WatsonR
I'm leaning the same direction as you... FICM. It shouldn't keep moving from hole to hole.

And I've been doing electronics for 33+ years.
Lol, you've gotten me beat then! Yes, I agree, it has been moving around. I just wish I had a known good ficm. That would solve all of my problems. Hopefully somebody on here does and is willing to let me borrow it for $
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:05 PM
  #29  
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Could it be the IPR? I changed the screen on it when I did the HPOP connector.

Also, just for basic info, I found out that you should not crank with the ignition when refilling the oil rail. You should use the wire in the engine compartment. Otherwise you could fry the ficm. I am guilty of doing this twice now. Maybe that is what happened. . .
 
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 03:30 PM
  #30  
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IPR won't affect an injector to make it start missing, it will effect all the injectors on low pressure. IPR should be around 14.9% at KOEO, 21-23% at hot idle and up to 77% when starting. 40% at 2500rpm at full temp.

You could swap out the FICM relay, they are cheap, about $30.

Check the oil level in the pan. If injector's are leaking by, they will begin to fill the pan with fuel. Caused from an upper o-ring leaking or the hold down screw loose... called making oil. You could do a bubble test to verify they are sealed.
 
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