You guys are awesome! I think I might take a stab at rebuilding mine but i am conflicted because i know nothing about machining or checking clearances. My 4r100 is still kicking at 417k miles. And my moms Ex also has 400k on a stock 4r100. Im only rebuilding because i have to swap the tailshafts and output shaft and i might as well freshen it up since its a complete dissasembly. I was thinking about using this kit...https://www.ebay.com/itm/360662573277
and what are yall thoughts on this TC? Do I really need a billet cover? I tow pretty frequently so I think i would benefit from a low stall TC. https://www.ebay.com/itm/332322031901

 

I think that is a very good kit, But with the miles you have on the transmission, I would consider changing out the thrust washers and some of the snap rings that are prone to wear. You need to look very closely at the Center Support housing for wear and definitely believe in upgrading to the machined version with spacer ring. There are also other areas I believe could stand some improvement. Most of the measuring can be done with a good dial caliper and feeler gauge set. It's not really all that hard. I prefer a billet cover TC, but that one would work if not abused too heavily. The billet cover reduces flex as the lock up clutches up apply and usually have better designed lugs where the clutch plates ride.

 

Howdy neighbor! I don't know anybody with adequate tools around here nor a clean enough shop so i was probably going to do it in Louisiana at my friend's shop. I would definitely feel more comfortable with someone as knowledgeable as you to give tips and some guidance. Does this look like a decent set of thrust washers? https://www.ebay.com/itm/351252143074
And should i get this machined center support kit?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/251857384099
I'm also guessing its a good idea to get the transgo kit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/272445295867
I bought a whole tub full of 4r100 parts as well just in case i muck anything up. Now as far as transfer cases go, has anybody torn one apart? I just found out the t-case I bought has the wrong spline count and i purchased the correct input shaft but im guessing there are a slew of seals to be replaced. Sorry for the long winded posts, I'm just thinking out loud

 

The thrust washer kit, you posted, is incorrect for your application. Diesel 4R100's use one for a 4 & 6 pinion planet transmission. You need one such as this. E4OD 4R100 TRANSMISSION THRUST WASHER SET 1989 & UP | eBay The machined center support and shift kits are the right ones. PM me with any questions you might have. I don't usually view this section of the forums and don't visit it daily.

 

Trans is still going strong!

For sure get all the thrust washers and be prepared to get a replacement drum or two. Even with the relatively low miles on mine the drums both had wear on the external splines where the frictions ride. I got used drums off ebay for around $50 each.

Machined center support, locking snap ring, both good things to get. Roland is a super great help and knows his stuff!

I would also suggest the ASTG manual. It doesn't have all the updates and upgrades you would find posted here in it but it is still a great guide with pictures and all to aid in assembly.

The one biggie that no one mentions and isn't in the manual is the sealing rings on the pump. When installing the pump in the case you have to be careful of the slip rings on the shaft while assembling. You can just barely see the rings on the shaft threw the oil pickup slot in the case. As each ring comes up to the coast clutch hole you have to carefully push the ring in toward the shaft (compressing it) so it can slip into the coast clutch. If you try to just push the pump in with force you can scar or even break the slip rings.

With that said nothing should need any force to go together. If something is resisting going together something isn't lined up or right.

If you take your time and read lots here and follow the manual the job isn't bad at all. I have been scared of auto transmissions forever but always wanted to rebuild one as it was the last piece on an auto I haven't done yet. I am glad I did!

 

Thanks for that Roland! And Snowseeker, thank you for the tips! Is this a correct drum i need? https://www.ebay.com/itm/282525675369
I'm very happy to hear your transmission is going good! Gives me more confidence to tackle mine. Also, I just realized i purchased a transfer case extension housing but its made out of aluminum...will I have any reliability concerns with using aluminum over cast iron? IIRC the E4OD's used aluminum and 4R100's used cast iron?

 

That drum is the Direct drum and the one preferred (holds additional frictions/steels) when changing over from a Mechanical Diode intermediate one-way clutch to a sprag type. I have run into problems with parts compatibility with apply pistons within the Direct drum years. It is best to have the one that comes with it when purchasing a replacement drum.
The drum, with the external splines that usually wear, is the Forward drum. E4OD's used one with a longer internal drive spline where the Center shaft engages it.
As long as the aluminum extension housing has the hole for the Output Speed Sensor, you may be okay. There could be some other differences, but I have never used one and can't say for sure.

 

So basically, would that drum be for a transmission circa late '00 to '01? My truck is an '02 which uses the sprag clutch. Is it common to see these worn out to the point of having to get them replaced?

 

The one-way clutch is part of the Direct drum assembly. The Direct drum has no external splines and not prone to wear, but can crack. It is replaced when the "conversion" is made to a sprag type. You don't have that one.
The Forward drums do wear somewhat in the external spline area. It is usually minimal and can be reused. When it is replaced, it is desired to replace it with an early version, or aftermarket billet one, which have the long internal drive splines.
Most of the time, replacing drums is a matter of upgrade. As with any of the hard parts, a thorough inspection is needed to determine their reuse. For me, some of them automatically get upgraded as a part of strengthening the overall assembly and increasing reliability. It all depends on your budget.
I can PM you a build sheet I like to use. It lists options/upgrades for some of the parts. It doesn't have prices, but you can look it over and ask questions. Warning, all total, it can pretty expensive.

 

Thanks a bunch mueckster! That build sheet would be very useful! I'm a college student so i cant go too crazy with mods...everything adds up. After the trans, im having my injectors rebuilt by Rosewood. From reading some other posts, it seems like it's generally a good idea to leave the cooler bypass tube? Goal for this transmission is to build it to the specs of a hd4r100 other than the low stall TC. Also, is there a way to check and make sure the transmission cooler lines are not restricted? A guage on the return side of the cooler or prior? Now I'm just gathering the funds to get everything i need. Are there any special tools that i should get?

 

What a great thread! Not sure I'd be up to doing a 4R100 without help, but my hat is off to you guys for trying and supporting Andy.

 

It was a fun rebuild for sure! New stuff is always fun to dig into.


So this truck has another ongoing problem. Mainly when humid or wet out the truck will drop the drivers side bank of injectors mainly in the first 30 minutes of running in the morning and like I said when wet out. Shut it off and restart and all is fine for the rest of the day.

I thought all along it was the idm with water in it so I got a replacement in. Finally just last week I had time to change out the IDM and still getting the same problem.

I looked over, cleaned, lubed, the valve cover harness plug and the big harness plug over the drivers side valve cover. I don't see any loose, burnt, or bent pins. I did the 50 cent mod not long ago when I had the cab off for up pipes and por work. Didn't pull out the valve cover seal/harness, just stuck the quarters in the clip.

Should a guy just replace the valve cover harness? Or look someplace else for the problem?

 

10K no issues! Knock on wood!

 

Excellent!

 

-17f this morning and she fired right up!

2K more and it'll be time for the next oil change!