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Put a pump and a filter on there and it will stay clean. That's pretty much the only difference between a cheap parts washer and an expensive one, as far as I can tell.
The forward drum came today. almost as bad as the one I have, just slightly better and definitely not the one pictured (to be bought).
I put it back in the box and sent it back. Will have to find another.
But I started in on assembly anyhow. I wanted to get that tailshaft section done today at least. Having to do a plumbing job on a house this morning took away some of my time.
First parts in are the Reverse piston, spring assembly, and retaining ring/bearing race. They call for using threaded studs and nuts to draw the race/ring down to the trans base then inserting the factory bolts. I just used variable lengths of bolts I had around to draw it down in steps slowly till I could get the stock bolts to thread in.
I used a big washer on a stock bolt to hold the tailshaft in while I put the snap ring and other parts in.
Reverse drum.
Frictions soaking all morning.
For some reason I didn't take any pics after the frictions and steels were installed. I realized I could go any further in the case without a forward drum.
I pondered this one for awhile. I thought about making a tool to do this and how extravagant of a tool. Then I did this.
I am waiting for the borg frictions for the direct drum so I could load those.
So I went on to one of the part prep endeavors.
Taking off the .050" only got me a completely flat surface on half of the support. It is close though, another .005 and it would hit all the way around. It mics out right all around. Would it be ok to take off another .005" to get positive contact all around? It would set the center support back an extra .005" from where it was stock. Not a real lot, I am sure the oil feed bolt holes have the clearance for it.
Is the total thickness, with the spacer ring, within specs? 1.060 +/-.002. Taking off too much could make the clearance between it and the Direct Drum/Intermediate Sprag, where the Number 6 thrust washer goes, too tight.
Borg direct drum frictions came yesterday! I can put the direct drum completely together now. Then hopefully early this next week the hopefully better condition forward drum will come in and I will be able to assemble the whole sun shell-forward drum assembly and drop it in the case and get the center support in. Then just turn the coast clutch in the lathe. Put some stuff together and the internals should be buttoned up.
I might do some polishing and and preparation of parts today.
I was looking back at some of the pictures you posted. I have to ask, "Was the cooler bypass line on the case when it was cleaned? Did you remove, check it, and replace o-rings/washers afterwards? "
I was looking back at some of the pictures you posted. I have to ask, "Was the cooler bypass line on the case when it was cleaned? Did you remove, check it, and replace o-rings/washers afterwards? "
That is a good observation and reminder. I do have to pull that off and clean it before I go any further. Easily forgotten on the outside of the case and doesn't need to be removed for anything.
That might be what some of the 1200 small O-rings in the rebuild kit are for.
Nice job and pics I respect your ingenuity but clutch drum compressors are cheap. Also I had good luck getting hard parts from a place called cobra transmission in Florida.
Forward drum I got the limit .055" with the snap rings I have to choose from. Not sure how I feel about this. The only three snap rings I have are .075, .0755, and .0765". I used the .0765 on this drum.
So I ordered a sonnax locking spiral ring separately. Then Roland talked me into the transgo kit for the coast clutch snap ring, some springs, and some valves, but also comes with a spiral ring for the OD spring. I was thinking they were going to be the same.
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