Coast clutch piston seal lip rolled over from the factory.

Set the coast clutch up in the lathe and turned the snap ring groove deeper. I didn't go all the way threw, about 3/4 of the way.

 

My CC molded piston seal lip looked the same way at 118k miles at its first rebuild. I think it's a fairly common occurrence.
I, also, like to air check all my drums as they are assembled and then, again, before the Valve Bodies go on.

 

I was wondering about doing that. The reason I started wondering about doing that is because I have extra lip seals left over int he rebuild kit. Which got me to thinking if I missed one somewhere. I am positive I didn't as I was real careful about them, which way they went in, and making sure each one slid in smooth and didn't roll over and whatnot. And I am usually just plain careful that I do everything right. So yeah the extra seals threw me off and made me think of testing the pistons with air while they are out yet.

 

I have been wondering. After assembly do you trans guys dump a few quarts of fluid into the trans to coat all the parts before putting the pan on?


After building motors I will normally fill them with oil (5 quarts) and then rotate them on the engine stand so the oil coats everything inside the motor. Dry spots at startup are bad. I can only assume the same for an auto trans.

 

I lubricate all moving parts during assembly with ATF and/or TransJel. I coat the gears, liberally with the TransJel, and fill the torque converter with ATF up to the hub before installing. I fill with about 4-5 quarts after the trans is installed in the vehicle. Fluid will distribute quickly at start up and the cycling of the gear shift during fill up. You shouldn't have to worry about any "dry spots''.

 

New coast clutch piston/molded seal deal came in today. Slapped it in the coast drum, threw the clutches in, too many frictions. I guess the PTO drum takes 3 frictions while the normal drum takes two.

I just came in to do some reading before pulling out the extra friction and installing the snap ring and measure clearance.


Question: The tolerance for the direct drum frictions is .030-.055. Mine measures out to right at the .055". How will this effect things? Will it be a slower shift into some gear? Weaker pressure on the frictions while in that gear?

I have a couple options, I can throw in an extra steel (.07*) behind the backing plate and then machine off .035"ish lip of the backing plate where the snap ring would sit which should give me .035" clearance in the frictions. The low end of the tolerance.

Likewise I can double up the snap rings (I have two) and again machine down the backing plate to achieve whatever tolerance I wish.

Or I can order a thicker snap ring and do it right but will have to wait longer (need to get this truck back on the road ASAP).

What to do?

 

Cut out some tools today.




I just used what was on the table (artsy thickness), this tool should be 1/8"




Mark TC bushing clocking.




Press stuff in with the old Dake.




New seal in, TC bushing in and staked.




Lube up (prime) the pump.




Use the case to align the pump case halves.




Sit around and wait for usps with my thrust washers...

 

Thrust washers FINALLY came in...

Put rear planetary in, dropped in the direct/forward drum/sunshell/front planetary and stuff, band, more clutches, center support, spring, od cylinder/piston, then the snap ring special tool number 2 is needed for. I used my old direct drum, a plate, and some bolts.





I then installed the OD frictions, steels, backing plate, and snapped in the snap ring. We are looking for .032-.058" here for a 3 friction pack. I measure a .069" gap. Called local ford shop and got a .020"ish thicker snap ring on order for $5.**, so I wait some more.

I can possibly do some more if it is ok to install all the valve bodies at this point? Or is it wise to wait till the pump is bolted in?

I have also gone ahead and replaced most with new springs (talk about finding broken springs now and then) in all the valve bodies but keeping it in stock form.

I didn't do anything for a washer or support for the center support (unsupported) feed bolt. I have read about this issue and for me personally I am comfortable with it how it is. Again the numbers of transmissions that go 200K+ without this mod just fine.

 

It is best to have the pump in before tightening any bolts on the worm track side of the case.

 

if a guy doesn't have a surplus of parts laying around there sure is allot of 'hurry up and wait' with these things. lol

To do it all again I would order the rebuild kit early. Tear down the trans and inspect all the parts (helps knowing now where exactly to look at all the parts for wear). Order whatever parts are needed. While waiting on said parts assemble the drums and case internals with the new steels and frictions to measure clutch packs and write down what the clearances are. Order needed snap rings to adjust said clearances to be in spec.

Then while waiting on parts yet do whatever machining is needed. Prep parts to be reused, clean, and put off to the side. Make up the couple special tools needed to get the trans back together.

Once the new parts and snap rings come in all a guy should need to do is just assemble.

The time spent assembling the trans and taking measurements for the rings needed will be well worth it.


An interesting thing to me is the videos I have watched. I probably watched about 20 or more different videos on tear down and assembly of the 4r100. While everyone has their own way of doing things the most interesting to me was how many (that claim to be pros and seem to know these things by heart) assemble without soaking the frictions and without taking any clutch measurements. They just simply throw the frictions and steels in drums, snap the retaining ring in, and throw the drum in the trans.

Now I assume it really isn't a huge issue if the tolerances are off some as most of the pistons have quite a bit of travel. But what kind of things would a guy notice if the clutch clearance is to big/small? Bad for the trans in any way?

It also surprises me how guys toss parts around on the bench. Especially valve bodies, toss around and slide around on a steel bench as if they aren't concerned about scratches or nicks on any of the surfaces.

 

Without measuring parts during disassembly, most people wouldn't know how far out of specs things are. It's possible that the need for different selective snap rings, or machining, is due to the mass production of parts and their tolerances. When enough parts that are too tight or too loose are put together, performance/longevity can suffer. That's why some things last or perform better than others. They received the better combination of parts. I can't see where the time is taken for detail in their assembly. It is about speed and getting it done, which can cost efficiency in the long run. You are, basically, getting the "luck of the draw". I like the "do it once and do it right" philosophy.

 

I agree in the "get it done" attitude of many shops. Like I mentioned I am sure all the transmissions work even though no measurements are taken. But like you mention they will all vary in efficiency and longevity.


You see very often where a guy gets a reman trans (or reman anything for that matter) installs it, drives for only a year or so and has a failure. Probably because the part was thrown together without any measuring. The only thing probably checked for is if it spins by hand or not.


This also goes hand in hand with the idea that "you get what you pay for". I am sure known trans guys like BTS and Woods do take the time to measure out tolerances and make adjustments. That's why their transmissions last and hold up.


Its also why I like to do things myself. Like this transmission. Even though I went in knowing nothing about an auto trans. With help from great people like yourself Roland, and all the info on the internet about things to look for and mods to do, a guy can do the job right if he takes the time to read.


Hell, even if a guy just buys the atsg book and follows it to a tee, he could build a great stock rebuilt transmission that should go 150-200K miles.


I am glad I finally took on an auto trans. I have learned allot and would not be afraid to tackle another. Not that I am looking for trouble but I am actually kind of excited to get to do the 4r100 in my excursion some day now.

 

Ford came threw today. $4.80 for the snap ring.

The stock OD ring that left me at .069"




The new ring and part number:



Got a .049" gap (.024" on top of the .025") now pushing the feeler gauge in pretty tight.



Everything gets covered before being covered up by the next part.



Pump installed, a tip, look threw the filter inlet hole in the case and use a small screw driver or soft pick to push the sealing rings in on the pump shaft to clear the OD drum. Otherwise the sealing ring could be broken or half sheared off while pushing the pump into the case. The guides I used are Honda AC pump bolts with the heads cut off. (seen in pic)



There she is... I put it up in the truck tonight and just stuck a couple bolts loosely in the bell housing and in the trans cross member.

 

Oh yeah forgot this pic. Sorry Stewart, I know you would have liked to see way more pics and cool stuff but really most of it is just repetitive assemblies over and over again. Not a real lot to show.





Then there is this. The kit I bought clearly states for 2wd yes? In fact they emphasize on the fact and point out why.
Ford E4OD 4R100 Super Deluxe Transmission Rebuild Kit 2WD 1998-On (93242) | eBay


WTH is this ****?

 

Easily fixed with a filter kit l, no?

Is yours 2wheel or 4 wheel? Sorry I can't remember.