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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Overflowing Carb

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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 05:51 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Glad Edelbrock is working with you. Adjusting the float level requires bending the float's arm, and it is shown in their manual.

The factory never put filters ahead of the pump, and some say that will cause vapor-locking, although it has never happened to me and I like having one there. However, I don't worry about how many microns the filter is rated. Running two of the cheap plastic see-through filters has worked for me.
I don't know of any fuel tank in a car or light truck that does not have a filter "sock" on the pick up tube or inlet of the tank pump.


Now this "sock" only filters out small bugs & birds. The fine rust & dust type dirt will get thru the sock and most in line fuel filters and why you find it in carb fuel bowls.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 08:51 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Dave - That's probably the "book" in the link called "manual" above. Right?
Missed that, sorry.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 09:09 AM
  #18  
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No prob. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't another one.

But, that document is so well written and so helpful with all carbs that I have more than one link to it on my web site.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 08:56 PM
  #19  
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Thanks for the info guys. I installed the new floats and put everything back together and it runs like a charm, actually better than it has run in a while if ever since I have gotten it running. I have an inline filter coming to add, but probably it wont stop everything as Dave said. At some point I plan on pulling the fuel tank, but the bolts are so rusty they will probably have to be cut with an acetylene torch.

I also have some other projects to start such as pull the heater core which is leaking on the passenger floor, the shocks which are worn so badly the truck bounces like it is floating or like a boat when I hit bumps (I assume the is what causes this), replacing the brake calipers (master cylinder still leaks so I assume a caliper is stuck), and getting everything tuned a little better.

While driving today I was wondering why the truck cannot do burnouts. Not that I would ever want to, but I tried to see how much power the truck has and it wouldn't do it. Where am I losing my power? I do have 33" tires on the truck.

The main time I would need power is if I ever got the truck stuck on the hunting land or if I was trying to pull someone stuck out.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 09:14 PM
  #20  
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A 302 doesn't produce torque at low RPM, so burnouts aren't going to happen - especially with 33" tires. Unless you have something like 4.10 gears, but I would bet you have 3.50's or taller/numerically lower.

Anyway, glad you got the carb fixed.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 09:14 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
As for the corrosion and rust, that probably came in with the fuel. So, what filter(s) do you have on the truck? I like to run two, one ahead of the pump and one between the pump and the carb. For some reason that seems to do a better job than one filter, even when the filters are the same. And I use the cheap clear filters as it also lets me see if fuel is getting to that point.
I think that is a great idea.

When you say "ahead of the pump," do you mean before the fuel pump?

Cheap clear fuel filter -> fuel pump -> fuel filter -> carburetor?

What kind of clear filters are you using?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 09:19 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by hharris8
Thanks for the info guys. I installed the new floats and put everything back together and it runs like a charm, actually better than it has run in a while if ever since I have gotten it running. I have an inline filter coming to add, but probably it wont stop everything as Dave said. At some point I plan on pulling the fuel tank, but the bolts are so rusty they will probably have to be cut with an acetylene torch.

I also have some other projects to start such as pull the heater core which is leaking on the passenger floor, the shocks which are worn so badly the truck bounces like it is floating or like a boat when I hit bumps (I assume the is what causes this), replacing the brake calipers (master cylinder still leaks so I assume a caliper is stuck), and getting everything tuned a little better.

While driving today I was wondering why the truck cannot do burnouts. Not that I would ever want to, but I tried to see how much power the truck has and it wouldn't do it. Where am I losing my power? I do have 33" tires on the truck.

The main time I would need power is if I ever got the truck stuck on the hunting land or if I was trying to pull someone stuck out.
Don't use flame around fuel.
Use a tool called nut splitter.
Steel Grip 2PC Nut Splitter Set (2265015) - Screw Extractors - Ace Hardware


I would also pick up new bolts just in case the threads don't clean up so you have them on hand.
Also there are pads between tank & frame & straps.
I used outdoor fake grass carpet, 4'x10' was $20 thru Tractor Supply I put the green side so you cant see it when looking the truck over.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 09:39 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by LARIAT 85
I think that is a great idea.

When you say "ahead of the pump," do you mean before the fuel pump?

Cheap clear fuel filter -> fuel pump -> fuel filter -> carburetor?

What kind of clear filters are you using?
Yes, I have one filter before the pump and one after the pump. And the ones I use are like this one. However, that one may not be the correct size for your hose. That's a 3/8" and some of these trucks take a 5/16" hose. So check to see what you have first.
 
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