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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Overflowing Carb

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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 10:05 AM
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Overflowing Carb

Hey guys,

It has been a while since I have been able to work on the Bronco because of classes, but I went out today to take it out for a spin and it fired right up. The problem is it now only runs for about 30 seconds and then conks out. It then takes 10 minutes to get it to start again. It will not stop flooding. I did try a choke adjustment, but I moved it back and it is now completely disconnected and it still does it. Is there any sort of quick fix for this?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 12:37 PM
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Does the choke stay open? Sometimes you have to tie them open to prevent them from flopping closed.

The only other thing could be that you have dirt or gum on a needle and the carb is running over and into the engine. If that's the case you can pull the top and gently wipe the needles down, clean the bowel, etc.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 01:04 PM
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If fuel is pouring into the engine, take the plastic handle of a screwdriver and rap on top of the carb flat area in the front. See if that unsticks the float needle.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
If fuel is pouring into the engine, take the plastic handle of a screwdriver and rap on top of the carb flat area in the front. See if that unsticks the float needle.
There is some gunk or material keeping either your float or needle open and causing this dumping. It is easy to pop the needle out and spray it clean or replace it with a new one for around 7 bucks. Is is dumping in primary or secondary? They are the same needle valve.. that fuel system dump can cause havoc . Best of wishes.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 09:05 AM
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Appreciate the replies. I am sorry for the delayed response. I have several test this week. I will let y'all know when I try these suggestions. Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 11:31 AM
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I removed the carb top and both floats are full of gas. Why would this happen on a brand new carb? Also, there is a lot of corrosion and rust inside already. How can I keep this from progressing? Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 11:47 AM
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I've never seen an Edelbrock float sink, much less two in a new carb. That baffles me. Are they brass or plastic?

As for the corrosion and rust, that probably came in with the fuel. So, what filter(s) do you have on the truck? I like to run two, one ahead of the pump and one between the pump and the carb. For some reason that seems to do a better job than one filter, even when the filters are the same. And I use the cheap clear filters as it also lets me see if fuel is getting to that point.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 11:56 AM
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They are brass and are about half full each. I have one new filter ahead of the pump (not sure of the micron rating) and I plan on putting a 10 micron rating one soon because there is a lot of junk getting into the carb (a coat of dirt and rust on inside, though I think some of it is from me washing the undercarriage and washing it into there). I have not replaced (actually not even sure where it is) the one that is factory installed and I am not sure when it was last replaced.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 11:58 AM
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The fuel line I have is clear that runs some of the way and so that allow me to see if gas is getting past the pump.

And on that, when I turn off the engine the fuel runs back down the line (I can see bubbles running into the line) which I did not think was anything, but I have heard someone say that there should be a vacuum keeping the fuel from every running back down the line. Is this true?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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I would call Edelbrock since it is new carb and see if they will send you two new floats. Obviously the ones you have are defective.

However, if they won't send you new ones you can repair those if you are decent using a soldering gun or pen. You'll have to drain the gas out, which may be easy if they have obvious flaws, or may require drilling a small hole. Then solder the hole shut, let it cool, and then sink it in hot water. The hot water will expand the air in the float and push it out wherever the leak is so you'll see bubbles at that spot. Solder that up and check it again.

On the fuel pump, I thought it would have a check valve to prevent the fuel from running back, but maybe not. Anyway, if it works I wouldn't worry about it. I'm in the midst of replacing a fuel pump on Rusty and it isn't fun.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 01:19 PM
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That is what I did and they are sending me new floats and a label to send back they old ones so they can see where they made a problem. When I get the new ones in do I have to bend them and how is that done if so?

Yeah, I replaced this fuel pump a year or two ago and after finding one that fit (which took forever) it was a beast to put on.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 01:40 PM
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Hardly any of the fuel filters online state what micron they filter. Is there some secret I am supposed to know? I was looking at K&N 2000, K&N 1100, Fran, etc.

Also, there are no filters between the carb and tank except the one I installed after the pump. Isn't there supposed to be one somewhere along the frame?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 01:44 PM
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Glad Edelbrock is working with you. Adjusting the float level requires bending the float's arm, and it is shown in their manual.

The factory never put filters ahead of the pump, and some say that will cause vapor-locking, although it has never happened to me and I like having one there. However, I don't worry about how many microns the filter is rated. Running two of the cheap plastic see-through filters has worked for me.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 04:13 PM
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If you are getting a lot of rust and keep getting it, I would buy a new fuel tank. They are not too expensive and will prevent a lot of problems down the road.

Several years ago I was looking up something about a Edelbrock carb, and they have a very nice book you can download online that will tell you everything you need to know about that carb.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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Dave - That's probably the "book" in the link called "manual" above. Right?
 
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