Hi everyone, well I finally got my truck running last Thur for the first time since I owned it (great feeling). 1960 F100 223 L6. After I replaced the Slave Cylinder (clutch) and made a few adjustments I was driving the truck on Sunday. Then yesterday, I go into my barn to move it out and the damn thing wouldn't run. It would turn over with choke open but as soon as I closed the choke it would die on me. It almost seems like the carb was really choking. I started making a few adjustments on the carb and things got worse. Here's my question, I'm going to back off on the two adjustment screws on the carb and start fresh. How many revolutions should I turn the screws after I tighten them to begin this process? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks...Dave

It Never Ends

 

I assume your "open and closed" description of the choke position is actually the opposite, there would be no reason to close the choke once the motor was running?
If so it sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem like a plugged filter or carb fuel passage or an major vaccuum leak like a hose split or fell off. In days gone by, when we put a new carb on an engine we would use 1-1/2 turns open as a universal ballpark starting point to try to get the engine running.

 

Ax racer is correct on peliminary adjustments for the carb. Pull the fuel line off the carb and connect a rubber hose and stick it in a jar or can. Pull coil wire and crank it over and see what you get. If it's crappy, time to pull tank and get it cleaned out. You could have crap blocking the line or the needle and seat in carb. You should get a strong spurt each time the engine turns over.

Barry

 

The only thing I would add is to gently tighten the idle screws until they are lightly seated, don't crank 'em down hard, which will distort them. Once they are seated, then do your 1 1/2 turns, which is a good starting point. Once you get the problem solved, then adjust the screws until you get the best idle, or use a vacuum gauge. Adjust the screws equally.

 

Hi Barry, funny you mention the tank that's what I did to get it running I had it steamed out and sealed, along with a new fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs, and wires. A few other notes, every time I ran the engine since last Thurs the gen light was on I pretty much wore out the battery trying to start it yesterday So I might also have an alternator issues. It is currently on a charger so I can start all over on Thurs night. I will defintelely do the rubber hose to gas line test.

Axracer, Homespun you are correct on the choke open/closed comparison. thanks for the tips on the adjustment screws. Now I have a starting point.

Thanks.
It never ends.

 

If you have a rubber hose on the fuel line check it for vacuum leaks. The factory rubber hose on my 51 looked like new but it was sucking air. Also check your tank for sludge buildup.

Rod

 

If the lines are clear as the other guys mentioned. You may want to open the carb and check if it's all gummed up or maybe a float is sticking. After sitting a while crude gets into the carb and really causes problems. With the carb apart, shoot some carb cleaner around and try to get the crude out. Check the needles on the float, I'm suspecting their sticking and maybe flooding out the engine. (that would explain why it runs better with the choke closed).

 

Well I took the carb off cleaned it all up raised the float level a tad and it still isn't working. I installed a new fuel pump a few weeks ago so I attached a bucket to the outake of the fuel pump and low and behold there's barley any gas going to the carb the engine is starving for gas and the fuel pump isn't delivering. Plus the fuel level in the fuel filter is very low when it should be filled with the little air bubble in it. Could this be the result of a faulty fuel pump?

 

You need to check the fuel lines between the pump and the tank. There have been quite a few tanks that have been "cleaned and sealed" and have had the "sealer" block the pickup and/or the vent.

 

I would drop a line into a gas can and hook it into the punp inlet. Then check the pump output. That will tell you if the problem is with the pump, or with the tank.

Rod

 

depending on what fuel pump style you have, some have a filter in a bowl at the bottom..check that, some have a cover plate with one screw you can remove and check, stuff in the old line may have worked its way to the pump

 

Here's an update. I took a small jar of gas and hooked it up directly to the fuel pump the engine ran good I waited about 5 minutes reconnected the hose to the pump and the truck continued to run good for about another 5 min then it just started bogging down as soon as I tried to drive it. I was able to get under the hood while idleing and every time I gave the truck throttle there was no gas or very little going into the carb all you can hear is air then the engine chokes out and dies. It continues to do this. One thing I noticed is that there's very little fuel in the filter the bottom of the cup that's it shouldn't the cup be filled up? Last thing I want to do is take that tank back out I think i'll replace the gas lines and see what happens.

It never ends.

 

did you change gas caps when you cleaned the tank?, I've seen alot of people have that problem

 

Dave,

Glad you narrowed it down to the fuel lines or tank. As the fellas have mentioned, those are the usual culprits - although a bad fuel pump and or carburetor problems are certainly suspects.

If you are going to clean things out, please take care when you drain the tank and lines. One of the folks in the small town where I live drained his tank last Sunday and a neighbor stopped by with a cigarette not realizing what was going on. He's still in the hospital but will recover I'm told. Nuff said on that.

I'd take the line off the tank and make SURE the tank outlet is free and clear of any gunk, sealant, etc. A small drain valve on the bottom of the tank is highly recommended. They make some that have a hose nipple on the drain side to make it easy to run the draining gas to a suitable tank or container. Once you do that, you're on to the fuel lines.

Run some new rubber fuel line from the tank to the frame, a steel line along the frame to a point near the fuel pump, and a rubber line from the steel line to the fuel pump. These lines are all gravity feed and see practically no pressure. A steel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor is a good idea. Insurance against a malfunctioning fuel pump and a potential fire. Good luck cleaning the lines and tank.

 

If it doesn't already have one, put an inline clear fuel filter in the line before the pump, the larger the better. That way you'll be able to see the gas flowing and when it's time to change the filter. It's also cheap insurance to change all the fuel lines for new when you have a tank cleaned since the same junk in the tank is likely to be in the lines as well.