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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Carb problem!!!

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Old May 11, 2010 | 07:08 AM
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Jacked-80F250
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Carb problem!!!

I have a Holley 4barrel, last week I bout some spray carb cleaner, followed the directions, turned it on, sprayed the carb down good, looked nice and shiny. Went to use it the next day, the damn choke doesn't work anymore. It just runs all 4barrels all the time now, and when I try to close the flap myself, it practically cuts off. Any suggestions?
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 07:19 AM
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good info here

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ter-thing.html
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 07:55 AM
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I read the thread you suggested, I don't think he had the same problem I am, but I am assuming that you are telling me to just go ahead and get a new carb and distributor?
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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it's not necessarily running all four barrels when the choke is open, there is another set of butterflies at the bottom of the carb that open when you step on the gas, the front two are the primaries (that the choke plate is above) and the back two (without a choke plate) are the secondaries.

did you disconnect any wires going to the choke (or anything else) before or during your cleaning?
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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No, I didn't disconnect anything, and all I touched was the flap, just so I could spray in there. I just followed the directions (it was running when I did it). That's why I'm confused. The only reason I'm saying its running all four barrels is because I probably ran 150 miles on a tank of gas, but now, it idles high all the time, and about 16 miles will eat up a quarter of a tank. It used idle high, and I hit the gas and then it ran normal, now it just runs fast all the time no matter what.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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Sounds like a choke problem. Make sure there is power going to the choke - 7 to 9 volts runing. If there is, make sure the connection is good. It sounds like the choke is stuck on high idle.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bghnkinf250
Sounds like a choke problem. Make sure there is power going to the choke - 7 to 9 volts runing. If there is, make sure the connection is good. It sounds like the choke is stuck on high idle.
Ok, so I should use a voltmeter and check that, what do I do if/when it turns out there's no power? Just run a new hot wire from the batt to it?
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:52 AM
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It's a holley throw it away You might have gotten the wires on it wet as well, maybe it just need to be dried off? Or there maybe there is a sensor in the carb for the choke and carb cleaner might have gunked it up? I've seen that before.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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fepowerguy might have a good point. Make sure the choke moves through its range of motion and something that was gunked up did not loosen up and get something else messed up. Then start with the volt meter. If it is stock it likely uses power from the alternator stator wire. I do not know if the choke is fused. If it is check that too. If there is no power, run a lead from the positive side of the coil. It has the same 7 to 9 volts.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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Well that's just the thing, the flap won't open and close freely, it stays in a vertical position, and the only way that I can get it to move, is by pushing the throttle just a little bit, then manually flipping it. But again, wen I do that, the engine tries to stall out.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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Is the actuating rod still hooked to the side of the choke plate? It sounds like it may have come disconnected then. If there was no power to the choke and it was hooked up properly, then it would stay closed until you pushed it open. It would pop back closed once you let up. The retainers on those rods crack and snap, causing them to pop out of the choke plate actuator.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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Ill have to look at that, I know that the flap plate itself has the rod hooked to it, but I didn't think to look down where the choke mechanism itself is. That's a good idea, thank you very much! Ill let you know what I find when I get the chance to get under the hood.

What carbs would you reccomend? I'm looking for as cheap as possible, while retaining quality.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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It sounds like the choke is sticking. That could cause a high idle and terrible gas mileage. If the carb hasn't been rebuilt in a while I would get someone competent to
rebuild it and tune it for you. I run a 4180 Motorcraft Holley on my 351 and it runs
great and functions like it is susposed to. I would look at having it rebuilt that would
be better and way cheaper than a new carb.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 12:15 PM
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I'm not sure what the factory carbs are on these trucks, but I personally love the autolites. I've never had a problem with any of them and they are easy to rebuild. Heres a link for good carb info Carburetor, Carburetors, Carbs, Carb Parts. Pony Carburetors - Your Ford Carburetor Restoration and Part Sales Specialist
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacked-80F250
I read the thread you suggested, I don't think he had the same problem I am, but I am assuming that you are telling me to just go ahead and get a new carb and distributor?

oops,
sorry I meant to post that link on "300/6 freak" thread as he was looking for a carb.

Guess it was to early in the morning to be posting and thinking at the same time.

Jim
 
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