Ok so about this time last year I did the dreaded head gaskets. ARP studs, new Dorman oil cooler, 20mm Victor gaskets, new icp, new ficm, new ipr, EGR delete, 5 inch MBRP turbo Back. So anyway Ive had high deltas for awhile only when giving it throttle when stopped the oil temps stay put and at an idle for awhile will start to go down. Last night I drove the truck to the store and back and my ECT was 188 and my EOT was 212. But I've seen oil Temps up to 248 before on the high way!! Coolant never goes over 198 on a 100°f day. Help!!!! Please.

 

What method did you used to flush the coolant? What kind if coolant was in there before? What kind of coolant is in there now?

You should use an OEM oil cooler. Also, those that know way more than me say to only use Ford head gaskets.

 

Simple distilled flush probably 2 weeks prior to the job. I put the Ford gold back in it. (Don't know where to get the elc coolant in fl) My buddies father did the same thing I did in my truck almost to the T and doesn't have any problems. Im wondering if not doing a proper flush clogged this new oil cooler or not. I've been contemplating Wether to go for the BPD kit but don't want to pull the trigger if I put that in and still have high deltas. I also need to put a coolant filter on the truck. I'm still a Newby with diesels. Hence why I'm asking for some wisdom.

 

Ouch on the dorman cooler and Victor hgs..
If the oil cooler gasket hasn't deteriorated yet it's just a matter of time. Think there was even a tsb about the gaskets. Coolant flush is a must prior to oil cooler r&r! It'll just plug the new 1 if you don't

 

Are the oil and coolant temperatures equal before you start up the truck when sitting overnight? I had a truck that started having high deltas. It turned out to be a bad coolant temp sensor. When sitting overnight, your delta should be close to zero . It happened on another truck too, but that one turned out to be a bad scanner. If you have close to zero delta first thing, than at least you can rule out these possibilities.

 

But tell us your flush procedure. Did you follow the one in the Tech folder? did you open the drain plugs in the block? Did you drive it or otherwise make sure it was up to operating temps before draining? Did you flush until clear? Did you check for sediment when you drained it?

If you didn't get all of the old coolant flushed out, it might could still break down and clog your new cooler. Was gold coolant in there before? When I was shopping for a new used truck I found one that had green coolant in it.Not sure how that would effect our motor, but I know it doesn't belong in there.

I'm at work right now, but there will be others around to help you out.

And welcome to FTE! There's no better place to find all you need to know about your truck. Post some pics of your truck, tell us more about it.

 

+1.

There is a lot of information on the Org that points to the current Victor Reinz head gasket as being the same as the OEM gasket now. That may be, but with what they did to us with the Black Onyx gasket, I would not take a chance that they are as good. They certainly appear to manufacture the OEM gasket, but with licensing agreements, etc, selling a gasket under their own label (bypassing Ford), that product may or may not be made with the same quality.

As far as the oil cooler goes, I would never buy a Dorman cooler. They just don't cool as well, even if they fixed the gasket issue. I might someday buy a Dorman product, but right now I can't think of what it would be!! Certainly nothing critical.


I guess my point is that the 6.0L has been out for quite awhile and the things that work quite well have been documented. With so much at stake with head gaskets and oil coolers, more experimentation is not appealing to me. I guess I am glad that people do experiment, but the community is not as active as it once was and you rarely hear back on successes and failures (especially in components that should last many, many years).

What works - OEM (except 05-10 EGR coolers and 03-04 HPOPs). Oh, and the BulletProofDiesel EGR and oil cooler options work well also!

 

I have to go through the whole oil cooler replacement scenario myself as do most 6.0 owners. Despite the success many members have with just putting in another oem, i won't be. Only way I would stick with oem style is if the old coolant was extremely clean. IMO the oem style is flawed, requiring flushing of expensive coolant every 30k miles. Even then, the oil cooler can get plugged again. That's why the BPD air oil cooler comes so highly recommended, completely eliminating the flawed design. Personally I can't stomach the inflated price of it so I'll be making my own...
But that's a different topic in my own "truck is broke" thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...acement-2.html

 

The 30k coolant flush was because of the coolant, not the oil cooler itself. The plate and frame design of the oil cooler has been used in many, many applications. There are more reasons than the oil cooler to keep your coolant system healthy and free of solids and coagulated material!!!!

Anyway, I understand your point though and would like to have a BPD oil cooler, just can't justify it.

 

Not to start a fight with anyone but I know of A LOT of trucks with Dorman oil coolers and not an issue with them.....50K+ miles too......

Now the $30 oil coolers on eBay last about 200 miles before going bad

Although, Ford, would be the way to go with the oil cooler and head gaskets....

But to do the oil cooler again really isnt a big deal to change out IMO.....

 

Depends on where you are when it fails .............

Also -

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...il-cooler.html

and

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-coolers.html

and

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-coolers.html

and


one more

https://www.fortheinjured.com/class-...il-cooler-kit/

video:

 

My flush procedure: truck was at operation temp. Just drove it on the highway at 85 for boutta half hour. Pulled lower hose if radatior, pulled t-stat flush from where t-stat is at. Flush from degas bottle with hose water. Didn't know about vc9 or anything at the time. Then refilled system with about 10 gallons of distilled flushed it till all the water was out then refilled with 50/50 distilled and Ford gold. (Don't know where to get elc coolant in fl). But my concern is that when I get these crazy deltas I'll let the truck idle and the temps will start coming down. But never to that 15° mark. My cold soak the temps are dead the same. So I don't know if I just didn't do a proper enough flush and clogged the new cooler or not.

 

I'll insert my madness in here:

1) look in the 6.0L Tech Folder for the Coolant Reverse Flush document.
2) in that document, there is reference to the access port on the top of the oil passage body that would allow for a Reverse Flush of the oil cooler
3) find that access port and open it
4) insert a pipe cleaner and swirl it around
5) if the pipe cleaner comes out with an orange slime/sludge on it then there is probably a situation of "silicant drop out" and Fleetguard Restore could clear the slime/sludge to improve the available surface area in the exchanger
6) if the pipe cleaner come out clean then there is probably debris blocking the oil cooler passage ways and a reverse flush might free up some of the debris to improve the available surface area of the exchanger


IF you decide to do a flush with Fleetguard Restore:
a) drain 3 gallons of coolant from the radiator petcock to lower the coolant level below the thermostat
b) poor in half gallon for Restore, this places the Restore in the primary coolant path not just into the degas bottle
c) top off with drained coolant
d) drive it hard for at least 20 minutes to get the operating ECT above 190'F, you may need a new thermostat to achieve this high temperature
e) after exercising the motor at temperature, shut her down and open the radiator petcock to drain the coolant ASAP, the Restore will suspend the silicant and you want that orange cloud of crud out of the coolant system before it settles
f) flush again and again, use warm water on a warm motor, do not poor cold water into a warm motor
g) repeat if necessary


Lastly, consider checking the Oil Cooler Bypass Valve which is located underneath the oil filter - if it is not sealing then some amounts of oil is bypassing the oil cooler. You can now buy a replacement valve at BulletProof for less than $20 last I looked.

After that you are looking at oil cooler replacement to bring the temperatures closer.

 

Many of the larger Napa stores carry ELC coolant for diesels - CAT-1 is what you are looking for. Or try the virtual internet shopping.

 

True...If it does fail?