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Jack some of the things you write are way above my head and my eyes glaze over . But a lot of the folks understand it and get a lot out of it. Then you post some of the best information on a subject that I have ever read and that to me is why we need you to keep posting 6 paragraphs.
When I do my flush I should run the heat aswell right???
Some trucks come with a vacuum actuated valve on the hose leading to the cab heater core, intended to help the AC - so yes turn the heater on high so that the coolant flows.
He's correct. And to fully understand here's a pic of that valve in the center. If you have one and the heat is not on then the valve is closed and you will not have the flow through the heater core.
Don't just flush it out a little. Flush it out completely, until you can drain it into an empty gallon jug and it is completely clear. If any of the old gold coolant mixes with the new ELC coolant, it will coagulate and turn to a gel in your cooler passages.
I already have CAT-1 ELC in my truck, so I am not concerned about the gelling, but I do not want to do anything that might cause stuff to dislodge and clog the coolers. Is it safe to just flush with distilled water?
I think the main way that dislodging and clogging would be from using a cleaner right?
The driver side if I'm not correct I have to pull the starter right? And could I just pull the t-stat instead of taking hours to warm and cool the truck??
The passenger side is the PIA side. Yes, you'll need to drop the starter. Disconnect batteries first! You can bungie strap the starter up without having to disconnect the wires. The oil cooler exhaust port is 2 T27 torx. The one under the turbo requires a 1/4" gear wrench & T27 bit with a piece of plastic to hold/wedge it into the gear wrench. Once the cap is off you'll need a hose with 3/4" O.D. to fit into the coolant exhaust bore of the oil cooler. You'll need to hold the flush hose in there to prevent it from blowing out of the bore.
The driver side if I'm not correct I have to pull the starter right? And could I just pull the t-stat instead of taking hours to warm and cool the truck??
I think the intention is to actually get the truck up to operating temps, not to just open in t-stat.
drove the truck this morning to go fishing went pond hopping pretty much and seen my delta at 192 ECT and 237 EOT!!! Will flushing the system do me any justice??
drove the truck this morning to go fishing went pond hopping pretty much and seen my delta at 192 ECT and 237 EOT!!! Will flushing the system do me any justice??
Ouch, that's definitely a plugged oil cooler. I tried flushing with a blast vac tool that induces shop air in with the flowing water to break things loose. Got a lot of debris out, but unfortunately once that OEM cooler is plugged it's too late. Even chemicals won't unplug it. My deltas didn't change one bit after about 10 flushes. A flush will be needed before you replace the oil cooler though. You want to get any debris out of the system to prevent the new replacement from getting plugged.
Ok so I've been shopping around to get my oil cooler replaced. (Don't have time to do it myself) I got quoted 1700 bucks for everything that sound about right?
. But a lot of the folks understand it and get a lot out of it. Then you post some of the best information on a subject that I have ever read and that to me is why we need you to keep posting 6 paragraphs. 
