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After the coolant flush & pricing all the parts for OC r&r, I decided to sell the truck since I mainly only use it to plow my driveway. My uncle gave me his old travel trailer & I went & picked it up this weekend. It's 38' and weighs about 8k lbs.
This is the first time I've ever pulled anything with this truck. So knowing that my OC is plugged I took it as easy as possible on the way home. My coolant quit puking after the flush so I was hoping that I may have cleared a plate or 2 in the OC to get some flow across the egr cooler. Well 10 miles into the drive home I had to pull it over. EOT hit 252° & ECT about 190°. Had to pull over about 5-6 times on the way home just to let the oil cool down. Coolant puked 3x, went through about 1 gallon. So much for wishful thinking on getting a plate or 2 cleared in the OC. Was extremely stressful!
So after pulling this trailer I have decided that selling it wouldn't be wise because the truck felt like it was really working hard to pull it. If I sold it I'd would just need to get another diesel or a dually with a big block gasser. I don't want a dually because it wouldn't fit in my garage. On top of that, trying to find a decent truck with lower milage that is in good of shape frame rust-wise as mine is would be very tough in my area. My truck only has 90k so I'm thinking it's worth putting in the $$ now and hopefully will be freed from having to worry about engine failure because a poorly designed oil cooler.
Going to go with new heads(unless by some miracle mine aren't cracked), arp studs, oem gaskets, and a diy air remote oil cooler. Total estimated cost is about $4-4.5k in parts. Been doing a ton of reading on the welding necessary for the oem oil cooler cover plate, proper hoses/fittings, oil filter mounts/filters, etc. BPD has a great looking oil cooler kit, but the mark-up is way too high for me to stomach when I can do it myself for almost half the price. So if anyone has done a diy air to water oil cooler install, any advice is greatly appreciated.
you might want to pull the oil filter to make sure the standpipe hasn't melted.
If the standpipe is still intact, time to get your hands dirty putting a new oil cooler in. A coolant filter setup would be a good idea to keep that new cooler clean.
you might want to pull the oil filter to make sure the standpipe hasn't melted.
If the standpipe is still intact, time to get your hands dirty putting a new oil cooler in. A coolant filter setup would be a good idea to keep that new cooler clean.
Yea air raid sirens were going off in my head once 245 broke. By the time I got pulled over & let it idle for a few minutes to let EGT cool down, I seen it creep up a few more to 252 before I shut it off. Luckily it was in the 20s & a strong wind to cool off the oil pan quickly. I'll have to check the standpipe asap. Fingers crossed!
Installed the coolant filter before the flush.
Originally Posted by Copper.Farm
Quite the adventure! Keep us posted with progress.
Have you considered buying a used motor, they go for about $1500 on the West Coast.
I don't have a lift to pull the cab. I'm pretty sure my block is fine. A used motor will just need to be studded anyways down the road. Every used 6.0 that I have seen for sale has 1 of 2 things. Low miles & untouched or studded & a boatload of miles.
If you don't have studs, it's just a matter of time. That's why I figured just do it all now while I'm in there. Wallet won't be happy but that's part of owning any pickup with a diesel.
Every used 6.0 that I have seen for sale has 1 of 2 things. Low miles & untouched or studded & a boatload of miles.
If you don't have studs, it's just a matter of time. That's why I figured just do it all now while I'm in there. Wallet won't be happy but that's part of owning any pickup with a diesel.
Definitely sounds like clogged OC. My delta was starting to climb. I went from
7 deg to 11-12 deg over about a 6 month period. I spent 2 days flushing mine just before
taking off on a trip pulling 14K 5th wheel. Same thing, EOT hitting 240-250
on the hills. Babied it along for the next couple of days until I got somewhere
to have the OC and EGR cooler replaced. All was good after that. 5-7 deg
delta.
Been on a parts hunting/research quest for a few weeks. Hunting for deals on every part to get the best prices possible without going too cheap on the brands, so if anyone knows any cheaper place to get any of these parts please speak up! Have only purchased 1 part so far, the e350 complete oil cooler housing & fuel bowl housing. It's the only part that could be hard to find when I start the teardown this summer so figured grab it now while its readily avaliable. Due to the cost of doing everything at once, I've decided if by some miracle my heads aren't cracked too badly and the cheap casted valve guides aren't looser than a $2 hooker, I'll reuse them. Not really holding my breathe on them being good though. Originally only planned to do just a factory oem OC replacement, but with the amount of neglect my coolant system went through and all the rust, i decided just to go all out and do everything needed. Really dont wanna go through changing multiple oil coolers after some of that rust decides to break loose over the years.
So here's the grocery list:
Grand total is $2291.49 or $4291.49 with new heads.
Probably another $50ish for shipping and I'm guesstimating about $350-400 for the ~30' of 5/8" hydraulic lines & fittings. About the only other expenses I'm leaving out is an oil pressure guage after the filters, fan tstat, & stainless steel exhaust manifold replacement bolts. Will be welding up all the mounting brackets for the cooler, tstat, & filter head so I'll save a bit there. Plan to mount the filter head back by the transmission crossmember. Tried my best to keep all the plumbing 5/8"/an10 to avoid pressure drop/spike issues. The one weak point is the dual filter mount inlet/outlet ports, they're 1/2" NPT. Not thrilled about the orifice drop. Unfortunately it's the only filter head I could find that the Amsoil filters will mate up with (1"-16 thread). Couldn't find the Amsoil brand filter head inlet/outlet size to do a comparison. Seems they like to be very secretive about design specifications
The E350 fuel bowl lines are routed differently vs the F series so those will need to be fabricated. Was think some nice looking ss braided lines to pretty it up a bit.
BTW, this post took forever to link all those parts! But I'll be able to reference them in the future when it's time to drain the wallet.
