Does anyone know a Tec thread how to rebuild the Door Hinges?
Thanks?

 

BUMP


Please!!!

 

I'm interested too. I know NPD sells a kit to rebuild them.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...659-50000.html

-Mark

 

2 ways to execute: On the vehicle or off.

Off the vehicle; remove the doors from the hinges and then have fun removing the hinge from the cab PITA. Make sure you catch any shims behind the hinge.
On vehicle; Remove left and right quarter panel, remove door.

1. Secure the hinge via a vice or bolted onto the cab
2. Cut pin with dremel cut off wheel (Takes awhile and 2-4 wheels as the pins are hard as he!!) or whatever you can get in there. original pins will be peened over or swaged
3. pull pins out, should be easy hence the reason you are rebuilding them
3. Drive out pin bushings or use a screwdriver to pry out
4. Press/Drive/carefully hammer (Ball peen) in new bushings
5. Drive in new pins, some kits come with washer and pin others with friction adapter and others with "C" clips
6. Reassemble vehicle in reverse of taking it apart

 

Thanks a lot F250 Super 4X4 but I think I am a little lost over here!! Probably because of some english words I dont understand or/ and I am just stupid.
My doors are already off the Truck due to rust reparation. I have a rebuilt kit similar to motorsportsaddict but for one door only. First question?
What is a Quarter Panel? I have nothing for locking the Pins in my kit? There are just something that looks like splines just below the head of the Pins?
https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...146-50000.html

 

If you have the hinges in hand (off the truck, that is), you might be able to just drive the old hinge pins out from the bottom of the hinge with a punch and a hammer. No need to concern yourself with the quarter panel (bottom part of the fender is what he is referring to) and the pins you have I think would be considered the "friction" pins mentioned. In other words they don't use a nut or any separate means to hold the pin in place, those little splines once driven in are what will hold the pin.

No idea how it translates but I ran his steps and my comments through Google Translate, hopefully it won't make it any more confusing. It's really a straight-forward deal.

2 sätt att utföra: på fordonet eller utanför. Av fordonet; avlägsna dörrarna från gångjärnen och sedan ha kul att ta bort gångjärnet från hytten PITA. Se till att du fånga några shims bakom gångjärnet. På fordonet; Ta bort vänster och höger sidostycke, ta bort dörren.

1. Fäst gångjärnet via ett skruvstycke eller bultas på ramen

2. Klipp stift med dremel avskurna hjul (tar en stund och 2-4 hjul som stiften är hårt han !!) eller vad du kan komma in där.

3. Dra stift ut, bör vara lätt därmed anledningen till att du är återuppbygga dem

3. Kör ut stift bussningar eller använda en skruvmejsel för att bända ut

4. Tryck på / Drive / försiktigt hammare (Ball Peen) i nya bussningar

5. Kör in nya stift, vissa kit kommer med tvättmaskin och stift andra med friktions adapter och andra med "C" klipp

6. Montering sker fordon i omvänd för att ta isär den

Om du har gångjärnen i handen (av lastbilen, som är), du skulle kunna bara köra de gamla ledtappar ut från botten av gångjärnet med ett slag och en hammare. Du behöver inte bekymra dig med kvartalet panelen (nedre delen av fendern är vad han syftar på) och stiften du har tror jag skulle vara den "friktions" stift som nämns. Med andra ord de inte använder en mutter eller några separata medel för att hålla stiftet på plats, dessa små splines gång körs är vad som kommer att hålla stiftet. Ingen aning om hur det översätter men jag körde hans steg och mina kommentarer genom Google Translate, förhoppningsvis inte kommer att göra det mer förvirrande. Det är verkligen en rättfram affär.

 

I have done this with two different trucks and an extra set doors.
Use your original door hinge or pickup a set of junk ones from the junk yard. Like the other poster said, remove the pin. Easiest way is to just cut the pin in the middle.
What I did was drill out the hole where the original pin was with a 1/2" drill bit. Insert a 1/2" bolt long enough to span the hinge.(I think 4-1/2" long) I'm not home to measure it. Now when I want to remove the door like heeps do, I remove the nut from the two bolts and take the door off.
When it becomes time to reinstall the door, set it place,and slide the 1/2" bolt back in place. I do not have to fight with getting the alignment and gaps correct because I did that when I first did the bolt install.

 

Pictures please and thank you!

 

I get the idea of being able to remove the doors quickly, but......the oversize holes in the hinges themselves will wear out that way and when they do....time for new hinges

 

Yes, the bushing after time is a sacrificial piece. Without a bushing the hinge hole would become warbled and unusable unless you keep boring new holes and inserting bigger "bolts". I would assume the door would also squeak utilizing the same material basically steel on steel or lube them monthly.

 

Thanks a lot everyone! You are always helpfull. Even to strangers who dont
understand your language that good. I appreciate it a lot!!!
And thanks TheMonson! You made my day with that google translation!! E.g
"some kits come with washer and pin" was "some kits come with a washing
machine and a pin" in Swedish Thanks ! ! !

 

Haha I had no way of knowing how faithful the translation would but hoped it might help fill in the gaps.

 

I can't do pictures currently because I'm in Wyoming and the truck is in Michigan. I have been using these hinges for 11 years and no problems with the holes woubled out. It was my daily driver until 13 when I got Bronco on the road. My job promotion brought my to WY and I wont see that truck until may/june. Sorry.